Drivers power window
Drivers door power window. Drivers window not working, had problems befor and had loom rewired still no luck so brought a brand new one thinking this will sort the problem out. After fitting the new one still not working all other windows work, my son-in-law took the car upto the garage so he could test the regulator and it worked up and down no problem, pluged it back up to the new loom and it still refused to work. so on the test went and there is no power going from new loom to regulater. a few mor tests later and still no power to the regulater from loom. Even tried new window regulator, and you guest it did not work.Scratch head time again, so can anyone give me any thoughts on were to go from here all fuses are intact and working.
Re: Drivers power window
Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box #6 (7.5A) and #23 (20A)
Check the driver's master switch as they can go bad.
Check the wire harness at the door jam area under the rubber conduit as wires break.
Personally had to replace the driver's master switch and repairs to 2 broken wires in the driver's door jam area over the years to repair window problems.
Advice from member "ezone": "I'd be using a test light at the drivers switch to make absolutely certain it is good, or not.
I'd have the proper wiring diagram, and study it so I understand how it all works. Then I'd be testing.
I'd pop the master switch out and leave the wires connected to it. Then backprobe a test light into #1 (blu/red) and #3 (blu/wht) then work the switch and see if the test light lights in both the up and down positions.
Whether the light does or does not light up with that test, determines my next step. Following the wire diagram, of course."
Check the driver's master switch as they can go bad.
Check the wire harness at the door jam area under the rubber conduit as wires break.
Personally had to replace the driver's master switch and repairs to 2 broken wires in the driver's door jam area over the years to repair window problems.
Advice from member "ezone": "I'd be using a test light at the drivers switch to make absolutely certain it is good, or not.
I'd have the proper wiring diagram, and study it so I understand how it all works. Then I'd be testing.
I'd pop the master switch out and leave the wires connected to it. Then backprobe a test light into #1 (blu/red) and #3 (blu/wht) then work the switch and see if the test light lights in both the up and down positions.
Whether the light does or does not light up with that test, determines my next step. Following the wire diagram, of course."
Re: Drivers power window
Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box #6 (7.5A) and #23 (20A)
Check the driver's master switch as they can go bad.
Check the wire harness at the door jam area under the rubber conduit as wires break.
Personally had to replace the driver's master switch and repairs to 2 broken wires in the driver's door jam area over the years to repair window problems.
Advice from member "ezone": "I'd be using a test light at the drivers switch to make absolutely certain it is good, or not.
I'd have the proper wiring diagram, and study it so I understand how it all works. Then I'd be testing.
I'd pop the master switch out and leave the wires connected to it. Then backprobe a test light into #1 (blu/red) and #3 (blu/wht) then work the switch and see if the test light lights in both the up and down positions.
Whether the light does or does not light up with that test, determines my next step. Following the wire diagram, of course."
Check the driver's master switch as they can go bad.
Check the wire harness at the door jam area under the rubber conduit as wires break.
Personally had to replace the driver's master switch and repairs to 2 broken wires in the driver's door jam area over the years to repair window problems.
Advice from member "ezone": "I'd be using a test light at the drivers switch to make absolutely certain it is good, or not.
I'd have the proper wiring diagram, and study it so I understand how it all works. Then I'd be testing.
I'd pop the master switch out and leave the wires connected to it. Then backprobe a test light into #1 (blu/red) and #3 (blu/wht) then work the switch and see if the test light lights in both the up and down positions.
Whether the light does or does not light up with that test, determines my next step. Following the wire diagram, of course."
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