Rep Power: 0

My symptoms are that I have no reaction to the climate control at any position. The lights for the AC, defrost and re-circulation light up, but don't seem to do anything; that is to say that the AC compressor clutch does not click in when the light is on and, honestly, I forgot to check voltage at the rear defrost. I can't really get to the rear defrost terminals right this second anyhow, as the car is full up with boxes for a move I'm going through.

The AC indicator light also comes on automatically when I select windscreen defrost, as it should.

I followed the troubleshooting in my maintenance manual that consisted of checking for power at pin 14 and ground at pin 13 on connector 14P and that all checked out. The next step is to swap the heater control panel for a "Known good unit." I don't happen to have one of these hanging around just now, so I'm hoping there is something I can do to inspect and fix the panel.

Any help is appreciated! If I can test this one and confirm that it's NFG, I should be able to test a junk yard unit before I pull it to make sure that it won't be bent as well.

 
Rep Power: 517

Is your problem is that the AC doesn't work, and that's the only problem?

 
Rep Power: 0

Nothing works. When I select blower speeds, temperature or different vent position, there is no response at all.

 
Rep Power: 133

Check these fuses:

Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box #1 (20A), #2 (15A), #12 (40A)

Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box #14 (7.5A)

 
Rep Power: 0

I can't check the under hood fuse till later, but I will when I get home. Doesn't the test I originally mentioned ( voltage@ pin 14)rule those fuses out?

I was able to confirm that voltage isn't getting to the rear defrost as well.

 
Rep Power: 517

So the blower motor doesn't work, easy enough. (If the blower fan does not run, the compressor will not be allowed to run)

I'd first figure out exactly why that blower doesn't work and see where that leads. (power transistor bad?)


No.

There is a lot of stuff between the control panel and the window that could have issues.

 
Rep Power: 0

I used my multimeter to test the fuses mentioned and was starting inside to report that each had 12V present at both terminals with the exception of underhood #12, which I tested by pulling and checking continuity and then by looking for 12V on one of the terminals...all of which I found, so I was going to ask what I should do next...

...BUT...

...after I shut the hood to come in, I heard a noise that I didn't recognize since I bought the car in February.

The heater blower motor was working! I started the engine and got cold air as well as the blower positions change from floor to dash to mix to defrost.

So...maybe there was some corrosion or a poorly seated fuse. It's terrible to correct a problem without knowing exactly what fixed it, but...that's how it is.

Thanks for all of the help! I wish I could point towards what fixed the problem, but I can't for now.

 
Rep Power: 133

I just had the same experience with the rear driver's window. Pulled the fuse, looked good, then reinserted and voila window works again???

 
Rep Power: 0

I thought I'd follow up with this, in case it may help someone down the line.

A few weeks later, the blower motor would run intermittently. Some times, with the AC switched on, the blower would not blow, but the compressor would run and the low pressure line would cool off, so I knew the majority of the system was working. After some trial and error, I found out that smacking the bottom of the blower motor with closed fist would start it up, so I figured the brushes were likely going out or there was more debris in the cage portion of the fan. I pulled the whole fan and there was nothing in there, but when I turned the fan by hand, there was a clicking sound.

I replaced the fan and everything works like a charm. So, I think this whole thing was caused by the fan playing Taps.