Fahadwizz321

Hi Guys.
I am from Pakistan.
I imported a CivicX 2017 through a friend in London. It has the infamous P10A2 1.0 Turbo Motor paired to a Manual Transmission. Great Little motor, plenty of torque. It has a brogWarner's little turbo for downsized engine.

Nobody knows much about this engine and not a lot of information is yet available on-line. Its basically a 3 Cylinder Engine with built in EGR. Turbo has an electronic waste gate and its mounted on the back. The engine does not have MAF sensor. Just MAP and it also has an electronic T-stat which is tricky if you're monitoring temps via OBD as the temp drops under load / boost conditions while remains close to 100C while cruising. On factory tuned it can produce boost of 18-19 PSI. Plugs and Coils are same as 1.5 Turbo. Engine has double VTC & VTEC. Pistons have oil galleries. Basically its an all new design.

The Problem
- Started with slight vibration at cold under load (with AC) setting off P0300. Once warmed up, you can use the car all day and it woudnt set another code.
- Recently it has started backfiring (exhaust) again at cold. Vibrations have increased. The car would now set a code at idle if left for two minutes (with / without load)
- LTFT was -15 at idle and -12 at WOT at start. Now LTFT has reduced to -20 at Idle.
- Rest of the sensor show normal readings.

Things i have already Checked/Tried
- Replaced Plugs with OEM / Tried different Coils
- Replaced Engine Oil (was running 0w-20, went with fresh 0w20)
- Dyno ran it and it still produced 120 hp (engine rated at 128 hp)
- Fuel average has remained the same and the car can easily achieve 180-190 kmph speeds at full boost
- Checked all fuses and relays.
- Tried different Hi-Octanes but nothing has helped.
- Cleaned TB (it was already very very clean)
- Checked TPS
- Checked / cleaned MAP & IAT
- replaced airfilter with original (Oil type) from Honda UK
- Checked for Vacuum leaks & Boost Leaks. Found Nothing.
- Turbo is not noisy and still performs as expected

Engine seems to be loosing Oil now. There is no smoke from the tail and the plugs are clean & dry. I found some oil in the intake pipes but i have no idea how much is normal. Checked for leakages both underbody and over. found nothing. I can see some fumes if i open the oil filler cap.

Engine has 21k KMs with 17k driven by me. It has been well taken care off and has never ever been over heated.

Can you please point me in the right direction. The Engine does not have any local support from Honda. I have no idea what to do now and i am now thinking about SWAP possibilities


Thanks Alot

mac25

The misfire is the only code you have?


At the dyno did you have a live data read out of the air fuel ratios? Rich? Lean? (You'll have to know your OEM ratios though, It probably wont be 14.7:1, due to boost, past 2500rpm)

I would guess that the MAP sensor should automatically correct for the air density at your altitude, but you should contact honda and ask if there is a reset process.

Obviously make sure your fuel is appropriate for the engine

-too high of octane can be as bad as too low.
-Leaded? Unleaded?
-alcohol content?

Fahadwizz321

Yes - At the moment. If i crank and keep the rpm steady at over 2000. The P0300 goes away after a few cycles.

AFR is being adjusted at the cost of significant negative Fuel Trim

I made some developments. Re opening the plugs today revealed cylinder #2 to be extremely black with some oil.

Disconnecting Coil Pack 1 & 3 wont let the engine run so i am suspecting Cylinder two has a problem. Also verified later by watching the misfire count. Surpsingly it does not throw P0302.

I am suspecting a valve problem which explains the loss of oil.

Local Hondas do not provide support for this engine. Part numbers are not available. I traced the HG incase of valve job, the part costs like 200 USD! Looking for valves & seals now. I think ill need a head job

mac25

Yes but we need to know the air fuel ratio from a reliable source, not the LTFT or STFT. If you can find a shop with a stand alone air/fuel gauge, that would help a lot.

The computer may be reading something that is off and adjusting the trim, but until we know the A/F ratio it's hard to know what to look for.

For example

If you're supposed to be at 13.0:1 at 4500rpm and there is an issue with too much fuel getting in, and we're at 12.5:1 then the trims will increase, trying to get back to 13.0:1. Which is good. In which case there is a fuel delivery issue causing a rich condition.

But if there is an issue with the Air fuel sensor and it is reading 12.5:1, where in reality it is 13.0:1, then the trim will will trim it to 14.5:1 and you will be lean, leading to detonation, misfiring and knocking. Indicating an air fuel sensor issue.


If the Air and Fuel are perfect then we know that the issue is with ignition or timing.



You have checked timing as well right?

mac25

You mentioned that it only misfires when cold which would lead me to guess at either an issue with the

-temperature sensor
-Air fuel sensor
-Air fuel sensor heator circuit

But all of those should through their own code if faculty


Try this
-before starting the car just turn the power on, with gauges fully on.
-leave it like this for 1 minute (make sure the headlights and radio are off to save battery)
-start the car

-do you still have an issue?

Fahadwizz321

Update

Low compression on cylinder #2. Taking it apart and will have to order parts. The funny part, i have no idea about the part numbers. If anyone can share a catalogue for P10A2, ill be really grateful.

scheheryar

Fahad, can you share your digits. I'm facing the same problem with same ride. My location is Islamabad.