Pro's and Con's of a K20A over a K20A2
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Pro's and Con's of a K20A over a K20A2
K20A
Pros
-LSD
-220 hp
-8,400 red line
-already ported and polished
- Close ratio transmition with lightened flywheel
- The name of "type R"
Con's
-expensive because we have to ship it here (about 5-6,000 bucks)
-hard to turbo from stock
K20A2
Pro's
-Lots of them are here and cheap to replace engine and brakes( about 5,500 for a whole car)
-better to turbo because of lower compression ration
Con's
-no LSD, but you can add one for about 700 bucks
- can't go up to 8,400 rpm but you can buy some pistons for 500 bucks and get them installed for about 150 bucks
- no lightened flywheel but you can buy one for 400 bucks
- transmition is not as good, but you can get one for 2,000 bucks
my point that im trying to make is why are you going to buy a type S when by the time you are finished fixing up the Type S when you can have all that stuff done to it already and in the long run save more money and time installing more stuff.
Pros
-LSD
-220 hp
-8,400 red line
-already ported and polished
- Close ratio transmition with lightened flywheel
- The name of "type R"
Con's
-expensive because we have to ship it here (about 5-6,000 bucks)
-hard to turbo from stock
K20A2
Pro's
-Lots of them are here and cheap to replace engine and brakes( about 5,500 for a whole car)
-better to turbo because of lower compression ration
Con's
-no LSD, but you can add one for about 700 bucks
- can't go up to 8,400 rpm but you can buy some pistons for 500 bucks and get them installed for about 150 bucks
- no lightened flywheel but you can buy one for 400 bucks
- transmition is not as good, but you can get one for 2,000 bucks
my point that im trying to make is why are you going to buy a type S when by the time you are finished fixing up the Type S when you can have all that stuff done to it already and in the long run save more money and time installing more stuff.
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Rep Power: 343 you also forgot the fact that the k20a has to run on a higher grade gas. And it will be harder to pass state inspection (at least in NJ).
The reason i got a k20a2 is because i got a whole RSX for 5500 bucks, Try to find a complete Type R for that price, if you do amen to you.
I got the brakes, seats, axles, kframe, shifter linkage, and all the miscellaneous parts i'll need. Plus the only k20a parts i plan on purchasing are the intake manifold (300 bucks) and the LSD (about 700 bucks). Rest of it i'm getting after market.
And btw hondata can make the k20a2 run at the k20a's specs for about 500 bucks, 8400 rpm redline, +15-20 whp, +15-20 torque.
The reason i got a k20a2 is because i got a whole RSX for 5500 bucks, Try to find a complete Type R for that price, if you do amen to you.
I got the brakes, seats, axles, kframe, shifter linkage, and all the miscellaneous parts i'll need. Plus the only k20a parts i plan on purchasing are the intake manifold (300 bucks) and the LSD (about 700 bucks). Rest of it i'm getting after market.
And btw hondata can make the k20a2 run at the k20a's specs for about 500 bucks, 8400 rpm redline, +15-20 whp, +15-20 torque.
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K20A2
Pro's
-Lots of them are here and cheap to replace engine and brakes( about 5,500 for a whole car)
-better to turbo because of lower compression ration
Pro's
-Lots of them are here and cheap to replace engine and brakes( about 5,500 for a whole car)
-better to turbo because of lower compression ration
You want a turbo, get an A3... at least thats only 9.8:1. Or you could take the extra displacement and stock torque of a K24 and turbocharge that... thats 9.7:1, and both the A3 and K24 have intake only VTEC, which makes the engine management easier.
Last edited by Boilermaker1; May 22, 2003 at 08:10 AM.
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Rep Power: 403 boilermaker1 you know what i mean by turboing, it would be pointless, you would have to lower the comprestion ratio a lot. why would you turbo a high compression engine?
and hawk, the type of gas used over seas is MON, we use RON. which means their 100 grade gas is the same as our 93 octane pump gas... i understand why you got all the whole car for the extras, but do we really need the rsx seats.
In the future i plan to buy a totalled RSX type S and take it apart. Use the the disc brakes and all the stuff i would need for a swap, just sell the type S engine, then buy the type R engine...
i don't know why, but i would love to say that i have a type R than say i have a type S, i don't know im just weird like that...
and hawk, the type of gas used over seas is MON, we use RON. which means their 100 grade gas is the same as our 93 octane pump gas... i understand why you got all the whole car for the extras, but do we really need the rsx seats.
In the future i plan to buy a totalled RSX type S and take it apart. Use the the disc brakes and all the stuff i would need for a swap, just sell the type S engine, then buy the type R engine...
i don't know why, but i would love to say that i have a type R than say i have a type S, i don't know im just weird like that...
Last edited by HondaLuver; May 22, 2003 at 09:10 AM.
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Rep Power: 424 You're saying the K20A would be harder to turbocharge from stock (your words not mine)... so why would that make me think that you were thinking otherwise for an A2? If you're gonna lower the compression, then who cares which one you pick? You'll be taking the parts that make the difference out anyways, and with either, you're gonna need to change the engine management for the turbo, so by the time you're done with it, all you really needed was a block, head, oil pan and a crankshaft.
Besides that, the imobilizer is different, and if you went with the A2, you *might* get an Acura dealer to fix stuff if needed before you rebuild it for turbo... I think it'd be harder to get a dealer to work on a JDM engine, as well as get parts for it.
Besides that, the imobilizer is different, and if you went with the A2, you *might* get an Acura dealer to fix stuff if needed before you rebuild it for turbo... I think it'd be harder to get a dealer to work on a JDM engine, as well as get parts for it.
I saw going to buy a street bike this summer for like 6000, but insurence is going to cost sooooooooooo much that i might just put the money into my car, can you usualy buy totaled rsx's for 5500, or did you just get a really good deal?
Originally posted by HondaLuver
i don't know why, but i would love to say that i have a type R than say i have a type S, i don't know im just weird like that...
i don't know why, but i would love to say that i have a type R than say i have a type S, i don't know im just weird like that...
Oh, and the Hondata Reflash sets your redline at 8600rpm, and lowers VTEC engage to 5200rpm...but yes it also does add 15-20WHP.
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and hawk, the type of gas used over seas is MON, we use RON. which means their 100 grade gas is the same as our 93 octane pump gas... i understand why you got all the whole car for the extras, but do we really need the rsx seats.
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Rep Power: 343 Originally posted by bickford05
I saw going to buy a street bike this summer for like 6000, but insurence is going to cost sooooooooooo much that i might just put the money into my car, can you usualy buy totaled rsx's for 5500, or did you just get a really good deal?
I saw going to buy a street bike this summer for like 6000, but insurence is going to cost sooooooooooo much that i might just put the money into my car, can you usualy buy totaled rsx's for 5500, or did you just get a really good deal?
Originally posted by Hawk
they are around that price, but they are hard to find for that price. I was lucky to find mine. Whatever way you look at it, no matter what you buy, k20a or k20a2 its still better than the d17.
they are around that price, but they are hard to find for that price. I was lucky to find mine. Whatever way you look at it, no matter what you buy, k20a or k20a2 its still better than the d17.
. I like this thread... lots of good info. 
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Rep Power: 343 Originally posted by R3DL1N3
and sorry. nother question. who does engine swaps? like what kind of mechanic shop
and sorry. nother question. who does engine swaps? like what kind of mechanic shop
For me its costing me nuthing, DIY owns j00. We're doin it at my friends auto repair shop he works at. His boss is a very cool guy and lets us use the bays and all the tools off work hours.
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Yes it is ture about all that stuff but what about the tranny, LSD, lightened flywheel and the ported head that comes with the DC5, you wouldn't need to do all that stuff. if you are turboing or NA.
NoBottleJustThrottle
Yea if you can get 15-20 torque and hp on a K20A2 imagine how much more you can get from a K20 A
DC5 @ EM2
yes i forgot the exacact names and numbers but i had a idea... people just don't under stand that...
Hawk
Amen to that, any thing is better than a D17
R3DL1N3
can you just put these 3 questions in one post.(post *****) if you would read in the members rides, hawk explains what it took to do the swap.
Yes it is ture about all that stuff but what about the tranny, LSD, lightened flywheel and the ported head that comes with the DC5, you wouldn't need to do all that stuff. if you are turboing or NA.
NoBottleJustThrottle
Yea if you can get 15-20 torque and hp on a K20A2 imagine how much more you can get from a K20 A
DC5 @ EM2
yes i forgot the exacact names and numbers but i had a idea... people just don't under stand that...
Hawk
Amen to that, any thing is better than a D17
R3DL1N3
can you just put these 3 questions in one post.(post *****) if you would read in the members rides, hawk explains what it took to do the swap.
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Rep Power: 0 The K20A is basically the same as the K20A2, except that it has higher compression pistons and a more aggressive camshaft profile. The transmission also has more aggressive gearing in the lower gears and an LSD.
And oh yeah - the red valve cover.
And oh yeah - the red valve cover.
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Rep Power: 343 Originally posted by htowncivicEX
The K20A is basically the same as the K20A2, except that it has higher compression pistons and a more aggressive camshaft profile. The transmission also has more aggressive gearing in the lower gears and an LSD.
And oh yeah - the red valve cover.
The K20A is basically the same as the K20A2, except that it has higher compression pistons and a more aggressive camshaft profile. The transmission also has more aggressive gearing in the lower gears and an LSD.
And oh yeah - the red valve cover.
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From: Washington DC
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Yes it is ture about all that stuff but what about the tranny, LSD, lightened flywheel and the ported head that comes with the DC5, you wouldn't need to do all that stuff. if you are turboing or NA.
LSD: also available separately as both an OEM part, Spoon, Mugen, and I'm sure Quafe will have an ATB unit for it
Lightened Flywheel: Pick your favorite clutch company, Toda, Jun
Port and polish: Shop.... might as well get a valve job while you're at it. Due to new manufacturing processes, I don't think the DC5 head is hand ported and polished like the DC2 was, the finish is fine when its made.
Anything you can think of can be bought aftermarket or will be available for it soon. I've already seen billet K-series blocks for sale...
If you're going to build the motor, you don't really need all the OEM parts... you're gonna rip them out anyway.
You're trying to turbocharge a motor that gets all of its power from compression... everything's gotta be changed, so there's no real 'easy' way to do it.
Then comes the fun of getting a turbo between the motor and the firewall, running the piping around the engine, which no one knows if it would fit, and finding a turbo that is effecient through a very wide range of RPMS. Its gonna be a big project to pull off. I wish you luck and I hope it works the way you want it to.
Last edited by Boilermaker1; May 22, 2003 at 03:36 PM.
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Rep Power: 403 hey i forgot about the billet block, humm... interesting... well, i have though about it and your right, i can just get a spoon tranny with LSD and a lighten flywheel, buy a billet engine, low compressing pistons, rods, crank, and all the little stuff in a engine, a after market intake manifold, some aftermarket cams, a good head, and a tdo5 turbo with a fat *** intercooler, and all the fun turbo stuff...
too bad i don't have that much money, maby one day when i win the lotto
too bad i don't have that much money, maby one day when i win the lotto
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Rep Power: 0 There is plenty of room on the exhaust side of the engine for a turbo. I haven't taken an exact measurement yet, but I'll estimate that there's a good 8-10 inches of space between the exhaust manifold and the firewall.
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From: Poco, B.C. Canada
Rep Power: 563 Ya, there is lots of room in the bay for a turbo. After looking at the Hasport swap I realized that there was really alot more room than first appeared....This is definately a GO for me!
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Rep Power: 0 Why is a billet engine better? What is a billet block, and why is it better than a normal block, aside form maybe wieght reduction.
I want a k20, and I plan on turboing it, but I would think a base rsx, or -s would be better than an si, unless the rsx and si are the same engine, non-s rsx of course.
I want a k20, and I plan on turboing it, but I would think a base rsx, or -s would be better than an si, unless the rsx and si are the same engine, non-s rsx of course.
Originally posted by CGodwin3103
I want a k20, and I plan on turboing it, but I would think a base rsx, or -s would be better than an si, unless the rsx and si are the same engine, non-s rsx of course.
I want a k20, and I plan on turboing it, but I would think a base rsx, or -s would be better than an si, unless the rsx and si are the same engine, non-s rsx of course.
Last edited by Azure; May 22, 2003 at 07:47 PM.
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From: Poco, B.C. Canada
Rep Power: 563 Someone told me that the only dif between a Civc SiR (EP3) and a Type R is the chip. I'm talking specifically about the engines only.
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Rep Power: 424 Originally posted by Pharoh
Someone told me that the only dif between a Civc SiR (EP3) and a Type R is the chip. I'm talking specifically about the engines only.
Someone told me that the only dif between a Civc SiR (EP3) and a Type R is the chip. I'm talking specifically about the engines only.
Wanna know why billet blocks are better???
They're FORGED!!
They're machined from a forged billet, not cast to shape like a production engine block. That makes them lighter and stronger than their production counterparts.
Last edited by Boilermaker1; May 23, 2003 at 07:04 AM.
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Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by Pharoh
Someone told me that the only dif between a Civc SiR (EP3) and a Type R is the chip. I'm talking specifically about the engines only.
Someone told me that the only dif between a Civc SiR (EP3) and a Type R is the chip. I'm talking specifically about the engines only.
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Rep Power: 0 "o yea, how will we fit the turbo piping in the engine bay?
maby DC5@EM2 can tell us if there would be room in the engine bay for this feet..."
Piping shouldnt be a problem because with the way car is setup now, I basically have the engine bay of an ep and there are several turbo kits out for the ep's. And besides, piping isnt that big of problem, you can always find some space to do the piping. Might not always be in the ideal spots where you want it, but you can get the job done. Also, like someone else said, theres a good 11-13 inches back there for a turbo, so unless you want a crazy sized turbo back there, I dont think its gonna be a problem.
And as it stands right now, by aug/sept, i hope to be pushing psi. Im probably gonna go with the cybernation stage II turbo kit for the rsx. Nice 8:1 pistons and other engine goodies able to handle around 20 psi. Ah, a 360-370 whp civic sounds nice.
maby DC5@EM2 can tell us if there would be room in the engine bay for this feet..."
Piping shouldnt be a problem because with the way car is setup now, I basically have the engine bay of an ep and there are several turbo kits out for the ep's. And besides, piping isnt that big of problem, you can always find some space to do the piping. Might not always be in the ideal spots where you want it, but you can get the job done. Also, like someone else said, theres a good 11-13 inches back there for a turbo, so unless you want a crazy sized turbo back there, I dont think its gonna be a problem.
And as it stands right now, by aug/sept, i hope to be pushing psi. Im probably gonna go with the cybernation stage II turbo kit for the rsx. Nice 8:1 pistons and other engine goodies able to handle around 20 psi. Ah, a 360-370 whp civic sounds nice.
