Pro's and Con's of a K20A over a K20A2
you're probably gonna have to do some custom fabing to get it to fit just right though for the turbo. But that does sound very nice. Just dont miss-shift, or run too much boost.
After i do my swap next month, im gonna just go all motor. There are tons of parts out for that motor already that can put a K20A2 N/A into the 12's. I'd be happy with a mid to low 13 though....12's in a civic just doesnt sound safe to me.
After i do my swap next month, im gonna just go all motor. There are tons of parts out for that motor already that can put a K20A2 N/A into the 12's. I'd be happy with a mid to low 13 though....12's in a civic just doesnt sound safe to me.
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Originally posted by NoBottleJustThrottle
you're probably gonna have to do some custom fabing to get it to fit just right though for the turbo. But that does sound very nice. Just dont miss-shift, or run too much boost.
After i do my swap next month, im gonna just go all motor. There are tons of parts out for that motor already that can put a K20A2 N/A into the 12's. I'd be happy with a mid to low 13 though....12's in a civic just doesnt sound safe to me.
you're probably gonna have to do some custom fabing to get it to fit just right though for the turbo. But that does sound very nice. Just dont miss-shift, or run too much boost.
After i do my swap next month, im gonna just go all motor. There are tons of parts out for that motor already that can put a K20A2 N/A into the 12's. I'd be happy with a mid to low 13 though....12's in a civic just doesnt sound safe to me.
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as far as reliability goes, which is better Turbo or Na, I know turbo's put lots of stress on internals, then again so does a 10K rpm redline, which engine would you expect to last longer... or is this a too open ended question. I'm all about power, but If i have to rebuild my engine every year, then it doesn't make sense to me.
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how about a engine with a turbo that goes up to 10k?
thats why if you want something good, you have to do it right, if you want a performance car you need to have everything made real good, so get forged pistons and rods, billet block, and everything else has to be high quality, not petboys stuff
thats why if you want something good, you have to do it right, if you want a performance car you need to have everything made real good, so get forged pistons and rods, billet block, and everything else has to be high quality, not petboys stuff
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Originally posted by Boilermaker1
No sir... the difference is the Civic SIR (Canadian version of the US Si I'm assuming) has a K20A3, the Type R has a K20A2 like the RSX Type S.
Wanna know why billet blocks are better???
They're FORGED!!
They're machined from a forged billet, not cast to shape like a production engine block. That makes them lighter and stronger than their production counterparts.
No sir... the difference is the Civic SIR (Canadian version of the US Si I'm assuming) has a K20A3, the Type R has a K20A2 like the RSX Type S.
Wanna know why billet blocks are better???
They're FORGED!!
They're machined from a forged billet, not cast to shape like a production engine block. That makes them lighter and stronger than their production counterparts.
Originally posted by Chrissy
can we like use the type r intake manifold, k24 block with the type r cams and type r head and the type r ecu?
can we like use the type r intake manifold, k24 block with the type r cams and type r head and the type r ecu?
Yes.
However, I don't think you'd want to have a JDM ECU on a USDM engine.

If you must know, this has already been done by a few people. If you want to see for yourself, check the DC5/EP3 forum on Honda-tech.com. Hondata has a supercharged version and they plan to add the Type R intake manifold to solve some low-end power loss, while another guy on there has done the swap in an EP3, but unfortunately he keeps his results to himself. The only clever thing about it is that his engine looks stock, but it ain't stock. The only difference is that the intake manifold is slightly larger than the one on the K20A3. You would have to have a good eye to tell the difference between a TSX engine and an Si engine because I think he's also using the 2.0 liter Si valve cover on the K24A2 block.

P.S. The K24A2 engine can produce more torque than the B18C5 will EVER produce. But of course, displacement ownz, ownz, ownz.
Originally posted by Hawk
And btw hondata can make the k20a2 run at the k20a's specs for about 500 bucks, 8400 rpm redline, +15-20 whp, +15-20 torque.
And btw hondata can make the k20a2 run at the k20a's specs for about 500 bucks, 8400 rpm redline, +15-20 whp, +15-20 torque.
Originally posted by iLLuMiNaTi
Correct me if I'm mistaken, but adding +15-20 torque to the type-s's 142tq@6000 still wouldn't bring the torque up to par with the type-r's 206tq@7000. I dont know too much about engines and everything, so please dont flame.
Correct me if I'm mistaken, but adding +15-20 torque to the type-s's 142tq@6000 still wouldn't bring the torque up to par with the type-r's 206tq@7000. I dont know too much about engines and everything, so please dont flame.
206 measures the car's torque but not in a way we would traditionally look at it in terms of ft-lbs. I'll post a picture of what it looks like.
Hondata on the K20A compared to the K20A2... the dyno results made the K20A engine look quite impressive.
Anyhoo, pic...
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Originally posted by NoBottleJustThrottle
There are tons of parts out for that motor already that can put a K20A2 N/A into the 12's. I'd be happy with a mid to low 13 though....12's in a civic just doesnt sound safe to me.
There are tons of parts out for that motor already that can put a K20A2 N/A into the 12's. I'd be happy with a mid to low 13 though....12's in a civic just doesnt sound safe to me.
Originally posted by THEANTIRICEST
your overly optimistic. i seriously doubt that you could run a 13 with bolt ons
your overly optimistic. i seriously doubt that you could run a 13 with bolt ons
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