no one really said anything about this?
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Hmm, if it were true it wouldnt make much sense for the manufacturer to tell us the opposite, that is, to be easy on your engine for the break in period. I've never heard anything like this, so I dont know if its true, but sounds kinda odd.
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Rep Power: 0 My uncle has a 2003 M3, his second M3, used to have a 95. He races a lot at Mid-Ohio and is good friends with T.C. Kline who races professionally for BMW and also manufactures parts for BMWs, along with renting them out to be raced. He has told my uncle many times that during the break in period it's actually best to drive it how you plan on driving it regularly. If you're a person who averages 3500 RPMs on shifting, shift like that, if you drive hard and like to take the RPMs real high, take them high right from the start. I don't remember exactly why you do this, and not sure if it is all true, this is just what my uncle said T.C. told him. So don't hold it against me if I'm wrong, hope this helps though.
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From: Alexandria, Virginia, US
Rep Power: 0 I heard that with the NSX, Acura has always took them out to a track and ran them at 100 plus right after they're built. Hmmmm...I always take it easy on a car right after I buy it. At least for 600-1000 miles or more. Just to play it safe (Oh how I love reaching the 1000 mark...VROOOOOMMM!!! 
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[hr]Originally posted by: sc1golfr
My uncle has a 2003 M3, his second M3, used to have a 95. He races a lot at Mid-Ohio and is good friends with T.C. Kline who races professionally for BMW and also manufactures parts for BMWs, along with renting them out to be raced. He has told my uncle many times that during the break in period it's actually best to drive it how you plan on driving it regularly. If you're a person who averages 3500 RPMs on shifting, shift like that, if you drive hard and like to take the RPMs real high, take them high right from the start. I don't remember exactly why you do this, and not sure if it is all true, this is just what my uncle said T.C. told him. So don't hold it against me if I'm wrong, hope this helps though.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: sc1golfr
My uncle has a 2003 M3, his second M3, used to have a 95. He races a lot at Mid-Ohio and is good friends with T.C. Kline who races professionally for BMW and also manufactures parts for BMWs, along with renting them out to be raced. He has told my uncle many times that during the break in period it's actually best to drive it how you plan on driving it regularly. If you're a person who averages 3500 RPMs on shifting, shift like that, if you drive hard and like to take the RPMs real high, take them high right from the start. I don't remember exactly why you do this, and not sure if it is all true, this is just what my uncle said T.C. told him. So don't hold it against me if I'm wrong, hope this helps though.[hr]
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[hr]Originally posted by: cdmx
Well it looks like they have proof, im glad i cheated a lil bit during my breakin period[IMG]i/expressions/demon.gif[/IMG][hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: cdmx
Well it looks like they have proof, im glad i cheated a lil bit during my breakin period[IMG]i/expressions/demon.gif[/IMG][hr]
What about making the intake ports smaller, he says intake ports....does this only apply to bikes
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Rep Power: 0 mercedes amg motors are pre broken in before sold to the customers... they sit it on a dyno and redline it all day.... i guess in theory it should work for all motors... and yea.. i cheated a lot during my break in period for my civic... maybe that's why it's so fast...[IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG]
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Rep Power: 0 I already did that to my car like the next day I got it I floored it to 7g's 
I couldn't help it or wait the 500 miles [IMG]i/expressions/demon.gif[/IMG] If my engine messed up, oh well Ill get my k20 
. Now throw your hands in the air, and wave them like you just don't care
:_ bow:
I couldn't help it or wait the 500 miles [IMG]i/expressions/demon.gif[/IMG] If my engine messed up, oh well Ill get my k20 . Now throw your hands in the air, and wave them like you just don't care:_ bow: 
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His logic is ok, but flawed. There is controversy about breaking in properly or not, but the thing is, you WANT good piston ring seal for a reason. running the engine hard before break in can cause that piston ring NOT to seal properly, as well as other bad things to happen. You may get a little more power at first, but you'll increase the chance you run into problems much quicker than normal down the road.
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His logic is ok but flawed? So... its halfway right? Could you please be more clear on this? Cause the guy does have pics to back his theory up..... so bottom line.... break it in hard? or take it grandma-easy? How did you do your car s2000 man?
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From: Milwaukee, Wisconsin, US
Rep Power: 399 His logic is ok, in YES you will get a little more power at first. HOWEVER, it's flawed because that quickly diminshes and greatly increases chances of having less power sooner as well as more problems as the miles climb.
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Rep Power: 0 Well... for a true proper break in of performance vehicles.. Run it lightly for about an hour. Change the oil..(yes after a mere 1 hour!) drive like hell for another 500km's Change the oil. Drive how you want, change the oil at regular intervals.
FOr passenger cars and the like it's a little different because the engines are designed to have a very long life and not need overhauling every 10-20k Miles.
FOr dirtbikes and the like. which I've been riding, building and used to race( 4streok anyhow) After the cylinder is honed and cross hatched. Rev in neutral to about 1/2 of what the redline is for an hour . Change the oil. the drive hard for a few days.. change the oil..then do what you will.
For 2 strokes, it's best to always beat the living hell out of them at all times. Low revs and carbon build up will cause alot more damage quicker than high rev use
FOr passenger cars and the like it's a little different because the engines are designed to have a very long life and not need overhauling every 10-20k Miles.
FOr dirtbikes and the like. which I've been riding, building and used to race( 4streok anyhow) After the cylinder is honed and cross hatched. Rev in neutral to about 1/2 of what the redline is for an hour . Change the oil. the drive hard for a few days.. change the oil..then do what you will.
For 2 strokes, it's best to always beat the living hell out of them at all times. Low revs and carbon build up will cause alot more damage quicker than high rev use
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From: San Diego, California, US
Rep Power: 0 Not so sure you should be following what one person on the internet says about breaking in new engines. And correct me if I'm wrong, but that site seems to be more geared toward bikes, and not cars.
Go against our manuals at your own risk, I suppose.
Look at this way... if you follow what the manual says, and something goes wrong, chances are good your warranty will cover you. Drive like a speed-freak straight off the lot, and chances are mechanics will be able to tell you did not break your car in properly and deny you any warranty coverage.
Go against our manuals at your own risk, I suppose.
Look at this way... if you follow what the manual says, and something goes wrong, chances are good your warranty will cover you. Drive like a speed-freak straight off the lot, and chances are mechanics will be able to tell you did not break your car in properly and deny you any warranty coverage.
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[hr]Originally posted by: MangoEX
hanks Mohawk, do you agree with this s2kman?[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: MangoEX
hanks Mohawk, do you agree with this s2kman?[hr]
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Originally Posted by OmegaBlue2k1
Its because of the advanced computer system in newer cars. They will adjust the vehicle over time to perform best to your driving style. Same way if you always use one grade of fues your car becomes accustomed to that and wont perfrom as well with other grades of fuel. I have proven both cases already since i got my new car. Right away i was setting my limits on the car.... "Dont go over 4k rpms.... Dont run the engine hard until its warmed up... Blah blah blah...." And i used 93 octane on my first tank fillup. After the car started breaking in i started pushing it a little more and more until now where im barely afraid of hitting redline anymore. I alternate between mid grade and premium fuel and i can actually feel a difference once the new fuel gets into the system. The car seems to readjust to teh new fuel. And i notice that my car actually performs better as a daily driver with the midgrade even though the manual says for best performance to use 91 or higher where my best city driving is gained with 89. Nissan told me that its not bad to be using the 89 so ill stick with it thru winter and then go premium in the spring/summer for all those cruise nights when i need that extra oomph when the cars really revving hard.
Originally Posted by dnbguy86
LoL, this guy really thinks buying premium fuel will help yur power rating. its hurting more than helping man
Didn't you read his statement to the end and wonder why he as Nissan telling him what to do?
He doesn't own a Civic. I believe he used to.
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From: SOUTHMPTON,NJ
Rep Power: 287 it does make sence, its how i broke my car in. you should seat the rings how your going to drive it not seat them once and then beat the car and seat them again, you'll end up doing more damage. aka the motor not lastin as long, do you really think manufacturs want cars to last forever? they will only sell 1 per person, and with all the tech out now they can make a motor that will last forever they choose not to, aka loss of money.
