building custom turbo kit....
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with the hks turbo manifold to be released soon I'm going to start to collect all the necessary parts to build my own turbo setup. here's a list of things i'm planning on getting that'll the most cost effective. Lemme know if i'm forgetting anything....thanx
turbocharger (i believe the hks design uses a t25??)
turbo flange
vortech fmu
greddy bov
oil return lines
2.5' downpipe
necessary piping and hoses
intake
turbo manifold
intercooler (not sure what kind)
boost controller
boost gauge
oil pressure gauge
A/F gauge
Wastegate
Thats about all that i can think of that i might need. Maybe bigger injectors but i'm only planning on running 5-7 lbs of boost. Also, anyone know any good websites where i can get some of this stuff at a good price. thanx
turbocharger (i believe the hks design uses a t25??)
turbo flange
vortech fmu
greddy bov
oil return lines
2.5' downpipe
necessary piping and hoses
intake
turbo manifold
intercooler (not sure what kind)
boost controller
boost gauge
oil pressure gauge
A/F gauge
Wastegate
Thats about all that i can think of that i might need. Maybe bigger injectors but i'm only planning on running 5-7 lbs of boost. Also, anyone know any good websites where i can get some of this stuff at a good price. thanx
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Rep Power: 0 Sounds good man, I am doing the same thing..I dunno if u r using all new stuff or if u r planning on buying used, but I have a T25 and intercooler for sale on eBay...lemme know...
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Rep Power: 0 Can't use a Vortech FMU unless you convert to a return fuel system, which would require a new ECU.
RevHard's turbo manifold ships in two weeks, mine is in transit to Dallas as we speak, just as a consideration. Should be able to get it cheaper than the HKS, and their manifolds are higher quality. The manifold will come with the flanges you need. You'll need gaskets, which will either come with the manifold or you can get them from Honda cheaply.
You will need to upgrade your injectors, as our injectors will peak out at 2lbs of boost. There are many ways to do this, either put in bigger injectors and use the S-AFC hack method, or add a standalone (Haltech or GReddy's Blue Box Solution) running it's own injectors that only come on during boost, and leave the stock ECM and injectors for pre-boost. This is good for gas mileage and driveability while you are not boosting. The key here is DYNO TUNING!!! Make sure, whatever you do, you have it tuned by someone that knows what they're doing! Otherwise, you'll detonate, lean out, and blow your engine. I guarantee it.
You'll need Missing Link check valves, so you won't get a check engine light every time you go into boost. The fish tank check valves do not work well enough.
I'm using a t03/04b turbo with a Tial wastegate, the Deltagate wastegates are known to lockup and cause overboost, leading to exploding engines.
Boost controller is not necessary if you're trying to stay cheap, this can be added later.
Turbo timer is not absolutely necessary, 80% of the time it's not needed, but for the times that you boosted hard for a long time or raced, you can just sit in your car for a few min idling the engine yourself, to save a little bit of money. These can be added later very easily.
For all piping- 3". Any less, and you may have to upgrade later if you build the engine for higher boost. 2.5" would work for what you describe, but for a few bucks more now you won't have to upgrade later. Make sure your exhaust is 3" as well.
If you are really serious about this project, I am currently putting my custom kit together, as soon as the manifold arrives we're installing everything. You can contact me by PM or email and I'll be happy to answer any questions you may have.
RevHard's turbo manifold ships in two weeks, mine is in transit to Dallas as we speak, just as a consideration. Should be able to get it cheaper than the HKS, and their manifolds are higher quality. The manifold will come with the flanges you need. You'll need gaskets, which will either come with the manifold or you can get them from Honda cheaply.
You will need to upgrade your injectors, as our injectors will peak out at 2lbs of boost. There are many ways to do this, either put in bigger injectors and use the S-AFC hack method, or add a standalone (Haltech or GReddy's Blue Box Solution) running it's own injectors that only come on during boost, and leave the stock ECM and injectors for pre-boost. This is good for gas mileage and driveability while you are not boosting. The key here is DYNO TUNING!!! Make sure, whatever you do, you have it tuned by someone that knows what they're doing! Otherwise, you'll detonate, lean out, and blow your engine. I guarantee it.
You'll need Missing Link check valves, so you won't get a check engine light every time you go into boost. The fish tank check valves do not work well enough.
I'm using a t03/04b turbo with a Tial wastegate, the Deltagate wastegates are known to lockup and cause overboost, leading to exploding engines.
Boost controller is not necessary if you're trying to stay cheap, this can be added later.
Turbo timer is not absolutely necessary, 80% of the time it's not needed, but for the times that you boosted hard for a long time or raced, you can just sit in your car for a few min idling the engine yourself, to save a little bit of money. These can be added later very easily.
For all piping- 3". Any less, and you may have to upgrade later if you build the engine for higher boost. 2.5" would work for what you describe, but for a few bucks more now you won't have to upgrade later. Make sure your exhaust is 3" as well.
If you are really serious about this project, I am currently putting my custom kit together, as soon as the manifold arrives we're installing everything. You can contact me by PM or email and I'll be happy to answer any questions you may have.
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Rep Power: 0 Couldn't you technically buy a kit like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=1864633673
And then buy the header and wastegate seperate, from turbo-performance.com?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=1864633673
And then buy the header and wastegate seperate, from turbo-performance.com?
#6
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Rep Power: 0 I have a custom turbo set up. 3" pipe[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-puke.gif[/IMG] = no velocity to much lag. Trust me I have already done it. I am using 2" piping with t3 turbo and a 22x6x3.5 intercooler and have had no prblems with the delta wastegate. I have upgraded 320 cc injectors and nx 25 shot of nitrous to get rid of the lag (hardly any). I also have the nx n-t cooler to cool the intercoler with co2.
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Rep Power: 0 I wouldn't say that all delta wastegates lockup, but my brother used to have one on his 4th gen civic, and it would lock up occasionally. Fortunately, for him, it would lock in the open position and not the closed position. I just thought it was because his wastegate was getting old, but I guess that other people have been having problems with them aswell...
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[hr]Originally posted by: Simkin
Couldn't you technically buy a kit like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=1864633673
And then buy the header and wastegate seperate, from turbo-performance.com?[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: Simkin
Couldn't you technically buy a kit like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=1864633673
And then buy the header and wastegate seperate, from turbo-performance.com?[hr]
And I've never heard of bigger pipe causing turbo lag. There will be lag no matter what unless you use a good boost controller (Profec A) or a nitrous setup to spool the turbo quicker. The only pipe size that matters is the manifold size, because that's where the turbo spools from, not from the other pipes.
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