Automatic...shiftin during race????
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Automatic...shiftin during race????
Aight i got a question..i got a 2001 blue civic ex coupe..when i start to race i leav it in "D" and break torque it..when i go i let it redline then go all the way down to "2" then i let that redline the up to "D3"...and its pretty quick when do that and i was wondering how everyone else does it..thanx...Nick
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Rep Power: 334 on the real.. with autos u really dont have to shift anything at all.. just break torque and keep it floored..
the only reason i could think of to do the whole "shifting" thing in an auto is if u want to take it a lil farther then redline (aka to like 7100RPM instead of 6800RPM)... so u could just floor it in D.. and wen it shifts to 2nd.. put the gear shift in 2nd.. this will hold it in 2nd untill u put it back up to D3 or D.. so u can hold it there till 7100RPM instead of 6800RPM.. and then put it up to D3.. and in D3 u can do the same...
dont know if this will make u any faster.. but 7100 RPM sounds sweet
the only reason i could think of to do the whole "shifting" thing in an auto is if u want to take it a lil farther then redline (aka to like 7100RPM instead of 6800RPM)... so u could just floor it in D.. and wen it shifts to 2nd.. put the gear shift in 2nd.. this will hold it in 2nd untill u put it back up to D3 or D.. so u can hold it there till 7100RPM instead of 6800RPM.. and then put it up to D3.. and in D3 u can do the same...
dont know if this will make u any faster.. but 7100 RPM sounds sweet
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Rep Power: 0 this dude in toronto i know, actually a member of this site, i won't reveal his name, tried doing that stuff...... he was fast like hell, he beat a couple of 2k1 si's with his lx..... but he messed up his tranny really good
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so i shouldnt be downshifting. from d to d3 then d2? i shift to d3 around 40 mph and d2 around 30. why? cause i dont want to brake. lol. lazy...
i know this topic has been beating to death but i still ahvent got a straight answer.
so i shouldnt be downshifting. from d to d3 then d2? i shift to d3 around 40 mph and d2 around 30. why? cause i dont want to brake. lol. lazy...
i know this topic has been beating to death but i still ahvent got a straight answer.
AzNmiKex215 is correct u can hit the 7100 mark and you do gain about 4mph on the high end of the redline.
But it prolly wit mess ur tranny, I kno my torque convertor blew (fixed under warrenty) I play a lot wit my shifter durrin races.
But it prolly wit mess ur tranny, I kno my torque convertor blew (fixed under warrenty) I play a lot wit my shifter durrin races.
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[hr]Originally posted by: netcbc
this dude in toronto i know, actually a member of this site, i won't reveal his name, tried doing that stuff...... he was fast like hell, he beat a couple of 2k1 si's with his lx..... but he messed up his tranny really good[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: netcbc
this dude in toronto i know, actually a member of this site, i won't reveal his name, tried doing that stuff...... he was fast like hell, he beat a couple of 2k1 si's with his lx..... but he messed up his tranny really good[hr]
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[hr]Originally posted by: AzNmiKex215
well if your racin from a stop... it doesnt really matter what u put it on.. D3 or D.. (D2 wouldnt be good cuz it start u on 2nd gear.. n keep u there).. so if u racing from stop.. just leave it in D and floor it.. if u dont let off the gas.. the car will accelerate through the redline and shift to the next gear... (1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th)
but if you are already moving.. its a good idea to downshift if u want more torque.. and i think the gears are as follows
1st. 0 - 35 mph
2nd 36 - 65 mph
3rd 66 - 95 mph??
4th 95+mph ??
im not sure bout the lenght of third.. cuz i never really have space to go that fast.. but if you are moving at around 60 and put it in to D2.. the rpms will jump way up to like 6k.. and u will definitly feel allot more pull as you floor it. just make sure u put it back up to D3.. at the redline.. becuase if u dont.. it will go past 6800 and goto like 7100.. and then you will hit the fuel cut off.. which prollie isnt too good for ur engine...
have fun[IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG][hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: AzNmiKex215
well if your racin from a stop... it doesnt really matter what u put it on.. D3 or D.. (D2 wouldnt be good cuz it start u on 2nd gear.. n keep u there).. so if u racing from stop.. just leave it in D and floor it.. if u dont let off the gas.. the car will accelerate through the redline and shift to the next gear... (1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th)
but if you are already moving.. its a good idea to downshift if u want more torque.. and i think the gears are as follows
1st. 0 - 35 mph
2nd 36 - 65 mph
3rd 66 - 95 mph??
4th 95+mph ??
im not sure bout the lenght of third.. cuz i never really have space to go that fast.. but if you are moving at around 60 and put it in to D2.. the rpms will jump way up to like 6k.. and u will definitly feel allot more pull as you floor it. just make sure u put it back up to D3.. at the redline.. becuase if u dont.. it will go past 6800 and goto like 7100.. and then you will hit the fuel cut off.. which prollie isnt too good for ur engine...
have fun[IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG]
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Rep Power: 0 dumbass. you can't "brake torque" with only 110-some lb-ft of torque to begin with... when you race with an auto, you just punch the gas. hard. if you want a bit more power... ease up as its redlining in 1st, drop the shifter in to 2nd, push the pedal to redline, ease up again, throw it back in to drive.
don't "brake torque", and don't drop from neutral. you'll kill an auto VERY easily.
don't "brake torque", and don't drop from neutral. you'll kill an auto VERY easily.
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Rep Power: 0 Ok as far as neutral drops go, I have an LX Auto and every once in a while just for sh¡ts and giggles, I rev it up to about 2000 RPM, not very much at all I don't think, but just enough to give it a quick punch off the line. While it probably isn't the greatest thing for the transmission, just how bad is it to do that? I mean I don't usually do a "neutral drop" with the RPM's very high, like I said somewhere around 2K - 2500 or so. Thanks!
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Cheers [IMG]i/expressions/beer_yum.gif[/IMG]
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Rep Power: 0 Alright, i doubt anyone will actually pay attention to this, but here, in detail is why downshifting manually is bad...
When the engine is at high RPMs, higher loads are placed on the surfaces of the holding elements, causing minute slippage. To compensate for this, elements are held together via higher pressures in the drums and servos. The movement of the manual shift valve in the valve body will not cause premature wear unless companied with constant beating of the trans. Don't down shift. This forces the elements to engage at higher differential speeds, increasing their loads, without the benefit of higher pressures, this causes slippage.
Inside the transaxle are a series of wet clutch packs. Like a clutch used in a manual transmission, these clutches wear. If slippage occurs, first the surfaces on the steel and clutches heat, next they become glazed, followed by burning the softer clutch material. The surface of the now burnt clutches cannot stop / hold correctly and the clutches wear out prematurely. When the RPM is elevated, the clutches engage and disengage at a set speed controlled by among other things the ability of the atf to flow through an orifice. An increase in flowed speed is accomplished through pressure increase / decreases controlled by the valve body, governor, and the temperature / viscosity of the fluid. The change from one gear on to the next gear on and the preceding gear off is commonly referred to the shift window. This window moves up and down the RPM range depending on the load placed on the engine. Installing a shift kit narrows the aforementioned shift window thus producing less slippage by way of less time for the gear exchange to take place.
As all these elements generate heat, breakdown of the fluid occurs, the atf does not lubricate the thrust washers and bushings properly, also causing premature wear. These particles of clutch and band material, along with pieces of thrust washers, bushings, and steel wear surfaces end up in the filter. As the flow efficiency of the filter is reduced, the internal temperature in the atx increases, be gating even more heat, causing accelerated wear. The higher the RPM, the higher the pressures used in the system. One of these pressures is the basis for holding the clutches tight, read no slip. The rotating mechanics of the atx are held in alignment by a series of bushings and thrust washers. As the RPM increase, the changing of gears at higher pressures slam these rotating masses front to back and side to side. As this occurs, once again friction generates heat and wear, side loading occurs. Once sufficient wear occurs, fluid leaks in the form of internal leaks occur at the bushings causing pressure looses. The pressure drops, clamping force deteriorates and the trans is toast.
When the engine is at high RPMs, higher loads are placed on the surfaces of the holding elements, causing minute slippage. To compensate for this, elements are held together via higher pressures in the drums and servos. The movement of the manual shift valve in the valve body will not cause premature wear unless companied with constant beating of the trans. Don't down shift. This forces the elements to engage at higher differential speeds, increasing their loads, without the benefit of higher pressures, this causes slippage.
Inside the transaxle are a series of wet clutch packs. Like a clutch used in a manual transmission, these clutches wear. If slippage occurs, first the surfaces on the steel and clutches heat, next they become glazed, followed by burning the softer clutch material. The surface of the now burnt clutches cannot stop / hold correctly and the clutches wear out prematurely. When the RPM is elevated, the clutches engage and disengage at a set speed controlled by among other things the ability of the atf to flow through an orifice. An increase in flowed speed is accomplished through pressure increase / decreases controlled by the valve body, governor, and the temperature / viscosity of the fluid. The change from one gear on to the next gear on and the preceding gear off is commonly referred to the shift window. This window moves up and down the RPM range depending on the load placed on the engine. Installing a shift kit narrows the aforementioned shift window thus producing less slippage by way of less time for the gear exchange to take place.
As all these elements generate heat, breakdown of the fluid occurs, the atf does not lubricate the thrust washers and bushings properly, also causing premature wear. These particles of clutch and band material, along with pieces of thrust washers, bushings, and steel wear surfaces end up in the filter. As the flow efficiency of the filter is reduced, the internal temperature in the atx increases, be gating even more heat, causing accelerated wear. The higher the RPM, the higher the pressures used in the system. One of these pressures is the basis for holding the clutches tight, read no slip. The rotating mechanics of the atx are held in alignment by a series of bushings and thrust washers. As the RPM increase, the changing of gears at higher pressures slam these rotating masses front to back and side to side. As this occurs, once again friction generates heat and wear, side loading occurs. Once sufficient wear occurs, fluid leaks in the form of internal leaks occur at the bushings causing pressure looses. The pressure drops, clamping force deteriorates and the trans is toast.
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for auto just put it on "D" and pray that you win. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] It's THAT simple.
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Rep Power: 0 i used to have a auto best way to get power out of it in a (race) is to break torque it until you get to about high 2k rpms then let off the break as fast as you can.
also if your not in a race you can keep the car in 2nd until the engine starts begging for revs than gun it
bhayes82 shut up who are you to call him a dumbass
(dont say things on line you wont say to someones face ) [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/IMG] [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/IMG]
also if your not in a race you can keep the car in 2nd until the engine starts begging for revs than gun it
bhayes82 shut up who are you to call him a dumbass
(dont say things on line you wont say to someones face ) [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/IMG] [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/IMG]
yup the only time i race is on da highway and thats when i let it rip
on D3 hahahaha
heavy mOoOOofoooOoO foot!!
and cutting up the highway.. thats the only u gonna win.
our cars are not meant for dragging...
on D3 hahahaha
heavy mOoOOofoooOoO foot!!
and cutting up the highway.. thats the only u gonna win.
our cars are not meant for dragging...
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Rep Power: 0 by the way a auto responds MUCH MUCH better to a auto than a stick with n2o and is better on the engine when shooting .
And if you get one of these (made for are car now) you will KILL a stick with the same car and same mods done to it
http://www.levelten.com/
so auto owners dont trip i used to be one of you
And if you get one of these (made for are car now) you will KILL a stick with the same car and same mods done to it
http://www.levelten.com/
so auto owners dont trip i used to be one of you
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Rep Power: 0 why don't you trade in your vic for a stick
If you are so concentrated on shifting an automatic then maybe you should've gone with the transmittion that was meant to be shifted in the first place! 5spd Civics arent even meant to be raced, why do you think an auto would! If you're intent is on racing it may be time to at least get a stick, or perhaps something other than an econobox?[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/IMG]
EDIT: Just a pointer, if you would've searched, I bet you would've found the answer to you question about 2,000,000 times in other topics about this![IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG]
If you are so concentrated on shifting an automatic then maybe you should've gone with the transmittion that was meant to be shifted in the first place! 5spd Civics arent even meant to be raced, why do you think an auto would! If you're intent is on racing it may be time to at least get a stick, or perhaps something other than an econobox?[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/IMG] EDIT: Just a pointer, if you would've searched, I bet you would've found the answer to you question about 2,000,000 times in other topics about this![IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG]
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Rep Power: 334 geez... u act like the tranny n stuff is alive..
live a little.. i dont worry to much cuz i dont do it that often.. and if anything happens i only had the car for 10 months... and i only got 10700 miles... should all be under warrenty
live a little.. i dont worry to much cuz i dont do it that often.. and if anything happens i only had the car for 10 months... and i only got 10700 miles... should all be under warrenty
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From: Glendale Hieghts, Illinois, US
Rep Power: 0 Thanx guyz for the replys i got more understanding on it....and i race once in awhile not like every stop light so i mean doin the "D"-"2"-"D3" isnt gonna kill the tranny...so its all good but thanx again for the 411..lata...Nick[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/IMG]
i beat a lot of cars doing that. but i start from d3. then 2. then d. but racing is bad for any tranny. they even say it in the manual. do not race ur engine it says. so if ur gonna race ur car wears down faster than normal use would anyway. plus u dont race lisa kubo style everyday u know. u do it what? every weekend? it should last. not as long but last a few years. unless do 10 neutral drops at redline everyday then i just dont know what to say to u.
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[hr]my friend did this in his ex, at last check he was at 21000 miles and on his 3rd trannsmission.[hr]
[hr]my friend did this in his ex, at last check he was at 21000 miles and on his 3rd trannsmission.[hr]
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