rogerscivic

hey guys im in a bit of a pinch yesterday i tried changing my moms brakes in the rear on here 2007 mazda 3 yes i apologize for posting it on a honda forum im in a jam right now i got one side done with new disc and pads but i cant compress the brake piston on the other wheel piston brake turns but wont go down now mater how hard i push in using needle nose pliers anyone have a solution other than ordering a online harbourfront tool i left the old brakes on for now

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

moved to general automotive discussion.

If it's same as my miatas (Mazda), the miatas have a screw that you need to turn to back the pistons.

brags

when i did my daughters 2010 mazda 3 rear brakes i thought of using the
Proper Tool so i went to Partsource they have a "Loan a tool Program" You leave a deposit and use there tool for up to 3 days bring it back after your done. and get your full deposit back well there piston compression Kit tool. didnt work.! none of the small doted discs ligned up. So i tried using a long Pair of needle

nose pliers on one side and turned it clockwise with a lot of down force yes it did work but my wrist and back were getting sore went online and found this Video and Glad i did " BEST METHOD I EVER SEEN SOMEONE USE..." and it workes Flawlessly! Just be carefull when grabing the piston that You dont grab the rubber boot when turning it around Clockwise i used that bessey Clamp and a pair of Long Nose Locking Pliers Worked like a charm. - Video Below-

Wankenstein

Piston cap shown in the video starting at the 4:15 time mark. Sounds like you are able to turn that cap with pliers but the piston still isn't compressing enough to remove from rotor, correct (as is the case with caliper in video)?

Call Autozone or O'Reilly's and see if they have the same or similar tool kit the guy in the video used. Both Autozone and O'Reilly's have a free tool loan program that requires a credit card at time of rental in case the tool is not returned. As long as the tool is returned it's free.
If the parts stores do not carry it via tool loan program thyen Harbor Freight may sell that kit.

Wankenstein

The OP's post is a bit lacking in detail. I think he's saying during removal he can't depress the piston enough to remove from the rotor.

As far as turning that two-hole cap a combination of needle pliers inserted into the holes plus a vice grip plier clamped across the needle nose's fulcrum (or near to) should make it easier to turn and push. The vice-grip plier would eliminate the need for relying on hand grip strength at the end of the needle nose plier to hold and push.

rogerscivic

i had the caliper off on the one side im having trouble with its the piston on there i cant get it to compress in to put back on new pads im going to try the video brags posted

THANK-YOU i will keep yous updated on progress

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

good luck!

seem mazda changed teh way, then. none of them seem smart, though...

Wankenstein

The piston not fully retracting will happen on most if not all calipers/brake work on all makes/models of cars. I have a large pair of channel locks that opens wide enough (and more) to clamp the piston down. I wrapped a bit of blue painters tape around the upper and lower jaw of the channel lock and use caution to avoid nicking the rubber seal.
The tool in the video brags posted should work even better than channel locks as it applies even pressure.

I've owned two 2007 Mazda 3's: a 2.0L automatic (purchased new) and 2.3L manual. Very reliable and fun cars..even better lowered (1.5") with Koni Str.t's (orange). After the first gen 3's: '04-'08 they have become bigger, bloated and heavier. Since the first gen they seem to have become less zoom-zoom and more boom-boom...as in geared towards baby boomers.

Wouldn't mind trying a 2.5L swap in a '04 Mazda 3 hatch. Other than the rims IMO it's the best looking of all the 3's

rogerscivic

Big shout out to Brags thanks"! for taking the time on Posting up Video for me it worked out to a T and to all that helped out thanks i finally got my moms rear brakes done this forum is excellent.

rogerscivic

"You guys" are welcomed to come on over and help me with the front brakes when there due for changing out. LOL
Nice Mazda

brags

Glad to see it worked out for You Rogerscivic did You grease the 2 slider Pins that hold the caliper in place? and Just out of curiousity

what brand of Brake Rotor and Pad did You use...?

rogerscivic

i got a set of wagner ceramics pads and Brembo rotors at CT Brembos were on sale price and cheaper then wagner rotors they had. and yes i did use the black grease on the slider pins it stops great and mom is happy thats all that matters to me thanks again

brags

CT Canadian Tire? that's where i bought my Brake Hardware as well. i bought 2 "Certified Brake rotors" read good reviews on them
for $33.00 and a set of there Wagner oe - spec Ceramic brake Pads for $55.00 throw in a little elbow grease and Less than $150.00 later they were done. i did see the brembos On Sale Nice Pick!



http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/search...lEIjoiMzAifQ==

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

just don't leave your car for work in Canadian Tire They were bad back in 2010-2011 (was in an apartment, so couldn't work on it myself...)

brags

sdaidoji the Near by CT is where i take all My Vehicles for Emission Testing when the time is due. So far they have Not screwed anything up and all of them have always Passed well. Not all CT"s are bad & there line of parts that they carry are decent and many times great"! especially things like Brake Parts like the Wagner Ceramic Brake Pads for my Daughters vehicle i was impressed on how well & easy they fit in the holder they literally went on using 2 fingers..!

rogerscivic

same here wagners were a breez going on cant recal any negative experiences with. CT i buy from them all the time. they use to do alot of my brake work but after goeing online and seeing how easy it is i started doing my owm