ok just got some subs for my car and i got questions
ok just got some subs for my car and i got questions
ok so i just got some Polk 12" momo mm120 series
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-NtE5agw...spx?i=107MM120
thats all the specs and stuff on them, but i need to know what type of amp i'm going to have to run these off of them
if anyone knows i'll be grateful with some help
thanks,
GabeBiggs
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-NtE5agw...spx?i=107MM120
thats all the specs and stuff on them, but i need to know what type of amp i'm going to have to run these off of them
if anyone knows i'll be grateful with some help
thanks,
GabeBiggs
Re: ok just got some subs for my car and i got questions
umm how many subs are you running and are you gonna be powering any other speakers with it or are you gonna run a separate amp?
if your powering subs only... then just about any class D amp with and rms output that matches your subs rms output will work as long as you wire them up correctly
if your powering subs only... then just about any class D amp with and rms output that matches your subs rms output will work as long as you wire them up correctly
Re: ok just got some subs for my car and i got questions
Don't run two speakers and a sub off of the same amp. They both have different power needs. You'll need a D series amp, they're made for sub woofers. If not, then just get a regular mono channel amp, and wire them in parallel.
Is your box sealed or ported? Ported boxes have air holes (tubes, slits, etc.) of some sort running through them. sealed is basically what it says, sealed.
If your box is sealed, you'll need a more powerful amp. If it's ported, the amp doesn't need to be as powerful.
You're going to want an amp that puts out Max 500watts rms at 4ohms.
Hope this helps, let me know.
Is your box sealed or ported? Ported boxes have air holes (tubes, slits, etc.) of some sort running through them. sealed is basically what it says, sealed.
If your box is sealed, you'll need a more powerful amp. If it's ported, the amp doesn't need to be as powerful.
You're going to want an amp that puts out Max 500watts rms at 4ohms.
Hope this helps, let me know.
Last edited by hvc; Apr 29, 2008 at 10:49 PM.
Re: ok just got some subs for my car and i got questions
NO NO NO NO NO NO NO. most of this info is right. but i WOULD NOT GET a kicker 750.1. you can, but itll be underpwering. Coming from a bit of research, your gunna want an amp that PUTS OUT 1000RMS at 2ohms. For effieciency purpose. you could get a 1000RMS at 40hms amp, and it would sound wonderful, but youll pay out of your anus. so wire them in parallel, and get iether a Kicker 1000.1, Alpine MRP-M1000, aLPINE PDX 1.1000, Infinity 1311a, or JL Audio 1000/1.
All options will cost mor than $300 at onlinecarstereo.com
the cheapest on the net. other than eBay.
All options will cost mor than $300 at onlinecarstereo.com
the cheapest on the net. other than eBay.
Re: ok just got some subs for my car and i got questions
and dont run other speakers off the same amp. a 4channel or 5 channel or 6 chanel will not power 1000rms Polks properly. please give them 1000rms.
Re: ok just got some subs for my car and i got questions
NO NO NO NO NO NO NO. most of this info is right. but i WOULD NOT GET a kicker 750.1. you can, but itll be underpwering. Coming from a bit of research, your gunna want an amp that PUTS OUT 1000RMS at 2ohms. For effieciency purpose. you could get a 1000RMS at 40hms amp, and it would sound wonderful, but youll pay out of your anus. so wire them in parallel, and get iether a Kicker 1000.1, Alpine MRP-M1000, aLPINE PDX 1.1000, Infinity 1311a, or JL Audio 1000/1.
All options will cost mor than $300 at onlinecarstereo.com
the cheapest on the net. other than eBay.
All options will cost mor than $300 at onlinecarstereo.com
the cheapest on the net. other than eBay.
BUT i have the 750.1 to kicker subs with similar specs as the polk momo and it pushes plentyyyy. the reason I would go with the 750 to a 1000 is because in the long run your saving a LOT of money and hassle. Pushing over 1000 watts in your car usualy requires some extra power (cap, battery, alternator)... therefore if you just really want that bass then sure go for the 1000 watt amp if money is of no concern.
Re: ok just got some subs for my car and i got questions
also forgot to mention my kicker 750.1 actually pushes near 1000 as rated from the factory... on the certificate thingy. just thought id throw that in.
Re: ok just got some subs for my car and i got questions
yea ive heard that the 750.1 is usually rated at about 975rms. while excellent and a real rating, you gotta remember, this rating is measured with 14.4 volts of power entering the amp. in our automotive application, you get 12Volts. So it makes less power. The 1000.1 usually makes about 1250Rms rated, so the 2 Volt difference should be compensated for. when it all comes down though, theres a significant pirce difference, so its up to you to decide. the 1000.1 will push it to 100%. the 750.1 will push it to like 85%. for like $150 cheaper. it all comes down to money, and your choice.
Re: ok just got some subs for my car and i got questions
yea ive heard that the 750.1 is usually rated at about 975rms. while excellent and a real rating, you gotta remember, this rating is measured with 14.4 volts of power entering the amp. in our automotive application, you get 12Volts. So it makes less power. The 1000.1 usually makes about 1250Rms rated, so the 2 Volt difference should be compensated for. when it all comes down though, theres a significant pirce difference, so its up to you to decide. the 1000.1 will push it to 100%. the 750.1 will push it to like 85%. for like $150 cheaper. it all comes down to money, and your choice.
good call didnt think about that. well i guess its just up to mr.gabe.
Thread
Thread Starter
Honda Civic Forum
Replies
Last Post
ej8
6th Generation Civic 1996 - 2000
2
Apr 13, 2015 06:36 PM







