jrock

iTrader: (1)

I hate how cruise control does not work with led bulbs in the rear brake light. One of my lights went out and I had to replace it with my old led... pissed...haha

DieMaster

iTrader: (5)

yea i encountered this problem about a year ago. i know how to fix it if u want to stay with LEDs. actualy i was going to make a DIY on it.

i'm out of town over the weekend i'll make one when i get back.

LT2004ever

iTrader: (2)

^^^ can we hold you to your words?

dalaw

what does rear brake lights have to do with cruise control?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

im still trying to figure out...

susuking

iTrader: (2)

yeah... why?

Devani

iTrader: (2)

why can't you buy a new brake bulb for ~$4 at autostore??

DieMaster

iTrader: (5)

i'm back. sorry for that i was walking out the door when i posted that.


ok. it's a simple fix. the brake signal going to the cruse control computer needs to see a ground to enable cruse control to engage. when engaged if it looses that ground for any reason or it sees +12 b/c u steped on the brakes it cancels the CC. so when u remove the filiment in a light bulb the computer cant see a ground though the filiment and it's what we call in electronics a "floating input." it's neather high (+12) or low (gnd) it floats on whatever voltage cross feeds into it in the harness. so when u engage it. if anything causis the resident voltage to flot the input to high, the CC will assume the non gnd state and cancel, hence the random canceling. so if u put ~50K resistor inside the CC computer from the pin thats the brake input (Wht/blk wire) to ground, the ground will allways be there untill u press the brakes.

now that i have u totaly confused. i will take the CC actuator/computer out and show u where to add the resistor in a picture.

i need to do that so bear with me. i will post up a pic of the location in an hour or so.

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

^cant you also just simple buy thoes 10$ "led load resistors" that prevent turn signals form hyperblinking...and tap it into the brake light? thats be teh same as ur methode rite? cuz they both ARE basically high load reisistors

DieMaster

iTrader: (5)

u dont need a huge 5 wat resistor to do this. it's a simple computer input. just a few MA. yes u could but it's WAY over kill.

working on the pics now......

jrock

iTrader: (1)

thanks DieMaster for the explanation....

I switched back to regular bulbs all around, because the leds just arent bright enough....I had bulbs with 27 + leds on them...just isn't bright enough and the cruise control issue sucks...regular bulbs

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

i still dont get it. i have total led taillights/brakes and top mount brake, all leds, and my cruise works just fine. led bulbs have a ground too, they have to in order to light up.

jrock

iTrader: (1)

gearbox...how is the brightness? Do you agree with what I said? I don't understand how your cruise control works.....

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

hmm haha actually i dont remember trying it after installing the tails. i just assumed it would work, since pressing the brake is only to deactivate the cruise mode i thought. i didnt think there was a signal needed for it to activate. tails are very bright, theyre the depo ones and from the back it looks a ton brighter than stock, blinding at night. pics dont do it justice. top mount is the civic 8thgen led bar. everything is super focused and you can see light reflecting off signs from many blocks away. i will try the cruise tomorrow and let you know if it still works.



just the top mount

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

^my cruise control works from about 40mph - 60mph ish.... any speed higher than 60, it wont work. strange...

BTW GEARBOX, what kinda leds are used in those tail lights????

meaning are they superflux or the regular 5mm leds?

my tail light LED are pretty damn bright.....but they're made with superflux leds though.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

depo tails use some kind of bright superflux, i say that because they are actually pure red and not red orange like the honda top bar is. weird since the lumileds superflux red i had before were way dim in comparison. i can try and take a closeup, but they are definately a superflux "style" led. Altho, it could just be the chrome reflectors making them brighter. or the leds are being overdriven which is also possible, but i did notice at 12v, the outside brake/park is dimmer than it should be and acts weird like its not getting enough power. so maybe its fine. i know its not those monster 4-5chip knockoff superflux on ebay, it looks like a normal size one. So it could be the reflectors just putting all the light forward. when i had my old red brake light, i didnt have any reflector, just naked led, and those are only available in the wide angle. oh and the oem led brake uses snapleds in red orange. i know these are overdriven cause on the cover it says 13.5v max but the car gives them 14.2

without the red focusing lens tho, they look alot weaker



compare this to the pic i posted above with lens on



and heres some fx leds i have, theyre taken apart now in singles, but they used some weird oval superflux that were really bright without any reflector. seems to be red orange. amazingly, these leds are just connected by wires that are spliced inbetween the metal tabs. no solder or anything, just tapped wires!

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

cruise works fine from 35-75mph. i know there is a lower cutoff tho for safety, either 25 or 30mph. more pics of the tails

park



park



brakes



ground brakes

mani_is_kool

damn gear box .. that is surely a nice mod man !!!

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

^yea superflux are square....


however, teh superflux used in ur drpo are the regular ones...the oem ones are alot smaller in the center dome...well, the ones on the FX and such cars....cuz i have alot of them...


i might consider showing me tails later =]

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

ya show em. the depo uses bigger head leds so not sure because it doesnt look like 4 chip maybe its another knockoff type. fx has oval domes. i doubt its real oem leds lol. but on the up side, the rear housing is really easy to cut up and replace the arrays. but that would mean also needing a new pwm.