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absolutely!

 
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It is hard to put into words.
If you get a **** perfect it will feel as if the shifter moves by itself, it will kinda fall into place. The easier the shift the better for the car. You can feel where the shifter wants to go.

 
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i'm curious on a couple things...

what are different ways to burn the clutch? i need to know so i can find out if i'm doing them myself
1) high-revving
2) pressing the clutch pedal while the car is moving (riding the clutch right?) but it's okay to do if you're about to slow down to a stop? most people either do that or shift in neutral and brake
3) traffic! (well that's unavoidable i guess)

btw, what does burning clutch smell like? i smell all kinds of smell when i'm driving but i'm not sure if its coming from my car, the cars around me, or the environment.....doh!

thanks for this thread jack burton

 
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Anytime the clutch is engaged, clutch pedal let out, it wears. The clutch's job is to wear, but there are ways to wear it out faster than normal. Two things will make a clutch wear faster.
It wears quicker the longer it is at the biting point and has not taken a "grip" so to speak, when the clutch is rubbing on the flywheel.
Also the more of a difference in speed between the flywheel and the layshaft, the more wear on the clutch.
So after an upshift if the rpms drop or jump, your clutch is weariing. Anytime you down shift and the rpms jump, your clutch is wearing.

The smell of a burning clutch is different from exhaust smoke, hard to describe.

If done correctly shifting at high rpms should not wear a clutch out too bad, but because of human error, and the fact that at high rpms the error is "exageratted, it can wear the clutch out faster.

 
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Can you explain this sentence to me. Correct me if I'm wrong, THROWOUT BEARING! It cost just as much in labor to replace a throwout bearing as it does to replace a clutch.

 
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Does the amount of power your engine puts out effect the synchros. Say by adding a turbo, does that attribute to more wear on your synchros? If so/not, Explain...

 
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Im sorry but about all this 'wearing the clutch out' and everything, I have to call BS. You say when the clutch is even pressed in it wears. Not to be a dic1k or anything but, you tell me how you are going to get around everyday wear and tear. Drive the car like it should be driven. You say that every time you downshift and if your rpm's jump, you are wearing the clutch. If that isnt the most obvious exaggeration of all you have said so far I dont know what is.

Example: Cruising in 5th gear on a highway, traffic slows ahead in your lane. There are cars quickly approaching from the lane you want to merge into. You downshift. Are you going to actually tell me that your rpm's SHOULDNT raise when downshifting? Excuse me if I am wrong but isnt that the whole point. Sure driving around in a city I can see them leveling out, but to make such a broad and unclarified statement as to having the clutch wear when this happens, is pure ignorance.

Every person in this world has their own way of successfully driving a manual transmission. If driving a manual was so difficult and there was so much to understand, the ppl who drive them would be in autos. Sure maybe there is a textbook way for certain things, but its all about being comfortable with how you drive.

Its like teaching a person how to sing. You will teach them your way, while they might want to learn there own way and have a different idea of what their voice should sound like. Thats why we have genres.

Same for driving stick, they are all different types of ways to drive a manual transmission. Im sure there are people out there that wouldnt agree with anything that you said, and they have been driving for over 30 years. Its all preference.

 
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anyone answer my questions

 
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All right I am going to try to keep my head on this one. ^I was not talking about the throwout bearing, I said spring, the pressure plate spring. But yes the throw out bearing wears as well, but I would not worry about it unless you are revving up for minutes with the clutch pedal depressed. I guess i should have included that, but my point was that the clutch is not wearing while the pedal is pushed all the way in.

I would like to state that i am the personification of ignorance and exaggeration, and that I also hate dogs, old people, oh yeah, especially the handicapped. I am a bad guy, what can I say.

Well, now for my response to the slander.
I said when the clutch is engaged it wears, when the pedal is let out. The clutch's purpose is to grip onto the flywheel and evertime that happens it wears. There is no way around it, I never implied there was, only a way of lesser wear. Yes when your rpms jump after you let the clutch out, your clutch is rubbing up against the flywheel, WEARING. I explained why that happens already, how am I ignorant?

Your rpms should raise when downshifting, just not after you down shift, you should rev match or double clutch.

Sure you can drive with out rev matching and if you drive like a grandma you may make your clutch last for 100 miles maybe more. But there is a textbook way to drive that is correct and it is the way the pros do it. I guess if you are comfortable driving like an amatuer, more power to you, drive how ever you want to. There are different definitions of of successful, I see a person who downshifts with out rev matching to be unsuccesful, while other may find if a person can get th car from point A to B, then he/she is successful.

Genres in driving stick, lol, wtf? Comparing driving to singing, in that aspect, like there is another way to properly downshift before entering a corner LOL? Yeah different genres, I actually like that, old lady, yuppie (this would prob suits you my friend), wanna be pro (this where I fit in), pro, and elite(world champions and those who can shift with out the clutch the day they wre born)

Some people prefer to drive slow, some do not, some people prefer to enter a corner as fast as possible, and accelerate out of it as fast as possible. Correctly downshifting is the only way to accomplish this, and even in everyday driving it is nice to downshift smoothly, if that is what you prefer.

Scansel, I have asked soemone who knows alot about turbos and what they can do to our transmissions to answer your question.

 
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guys, clutch wear is normal and minimal if driven right. thats why after 120k miles or something, the clutch needs to be replaced or clutch needs to be re-tightened. anyway, our cars have self adjusting ones where it tightens as needed.
scansel- syncrhos are screwed up by plain shifting wrong- meaning too hard, too fast, or skip shifting.
heres a link on synchros- its old but still useful.
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...light=synchros

 
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Im basically wanting to know about synchros because Honda is claiming my nitrous causes synchro damage. I was wondering if any car gurus or engineers can back this up with proof on why or why this is not true.

I would understand if I had my rev limiter raised because maybe synchros might not be able to spin fast enough or whatever to keep up but with nitrous, RPMs never change. If anyone knows the answer please explain. Thanks!

 
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I asked someone who would prob know the answer, just hang tight.

 
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You are only putting wear and tear on the syncros when you shift. Sure, if you are making 500 whp and you powershift the car hard, your syncros will wear out faster. But if you are making 500 whp and you are driving the car like the rest of the human race, then no.

I am willing to bet that some of the NA guys on here with stock exhausts and a CAI will wear out their syncros before me. And my car was turbod on the stock motor for 45,000 miles, and pretty soon it will be turbo'd on the built motor. All using the same tranny. The only thing i modified in the tranny was the input shaft bearing (broke the stock one)

 
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i put in a revo SS to help the feel be smoother and faster.

 
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thanks, I will definately bring this up to the honda rep when I meet with him later next week.

 
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any vids that demonstate the heel-toe and double clutch technique? oh yea, i tried to motion the heel-toe thing when the engine was off to just get a feel for it and it seems hard because the brake is higher than the pedal

argh i wish i knew how to replace a clutch (just in case i ever had to....lol)

jackburton, i want to be a wannabe pro also!

 
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Your brake is higher then the gas pedal even when its pushed in? Hmm, mines are the opposite, since I have some covers on it so that the gaps between the pedals are closer, but I have yet to do heel and toe.

Also you can try to replace your own clutch with the Clutch replacement DIY in the DIY section.

 
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Vids will only help so much, but they will help. You can do "heel/toe" any way you would, some people prefer to keep their foot vertical and use the sides of the foot. The only thing that you can do is practice, it took me a long time to learn and I am still learning. It takes a lot of skill.

 
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Yeah, I know. I tried it once or twice just for fun on the street where there is no one and I always end up pushing the brake down more. But thats with no practice, lol.

 
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i'm curious on how you guys push down the clutch pedal. do you guys push it flat footed? i feel no control doing it that way.

i noticed that i tend to slant my foot and use my pinky toes. i feel more control this way

what about you guys?

 
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i use the big toe, let up with the big toe. but i am close enough to use the whole foot if need be.

 
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For me, ankle on floor, push in, let out, pivot on to dead pedal, and repeat when necessary.

 
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what does it mean to bleed the clutch?

i'm assuming you do this only when breaking in a new clutch?

thanks

 
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Same as bleeding the brakes, to let air out of the fluid line, because air compresses too much, therefore little to no pedal work.

 
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how do you bleed something though?
sorry i'm new to the auto world

 
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you remembered the bit about double clutching but you forgot to tell people how not to granny shift. I hear that's bad to do.

 
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Same here, I just know what it does but I havent know/touched anything like that yet.

 
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theres a nipple on the brake calipers that is used for bleeding the brakes. It is really simple to do. Next time you get your brakes done, ask the mechanic if you could watch. Then after that, you could probably do it yourself

 
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what's the purpose of bleeding something though?

you mean like breaking it in or something? so if you upgrade your brake pads you need to bleed them first before going on a test drive?

 
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no....


air can be compressed. Liquids cannot.

if there is air in your brake lines, when you press on the pedal, the air will compress instead of applying pressure on the brake pads. This will cause you to run into **** since you cant stop.