Any tips on buying a used sports car?
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Any tips on buying a used sports car?
I'm finally graduating in a few weeks, and assuming I get the job I think I'm gonna get (its likely), I'm probably gonna get a toy. Just one of those things that comes along with making money and having not much to spend it on. Anyways... I have a particular car in mind, and they don't make it anymore, but I'm absolutely in love with the eccentricity of it. I've figured out that used, its about $30K for a model made between 98 and 2001. (there's a particular reason I'm not mentioning what, I want an impartial response). Thing is, it would be what you'd classify as pretty much a flat out sports car, the performance model of the line. Which leaves me a bit leary about buying it used given what I do to my run of the mill car almost on a weekly basis. Left without a buy it new option (due to price and discontinuation), I'm in the used market.
As far as finding one, I'm not picky on anything buy the milage (not high) and the condition of the car (like new). Aside from normal test driving, I've kinda figured some stuff out to look it over extra closely to make sure there's no signs of someone returning it to stock, or screwing with it in any way. What will be even harder is trying to find out if the car has ever been tracked. Not sure how to do that. So far, this is what I've come up with:
-Drive it
-Get a compression test done
-Inspect all suspension bolts for tool marks
-check under trunk liner for signs of nitrous installation (actually picked up that one on a forum). Why you'd put N2O in a car like this though, I dunno.
- match engine/head/transmission serial numbers for continuity and matching VIN
- check oil for metal, same for trans and rear end
-Scan computer for over-rev codes
- check tires for sidewall scuffing (in case dealer is too dumb to check for that)
- brake rotors for scorching or grooves from heavy braking
-funny noises
- signs of blown shocks at low milage
- check ECU for aftermarket chip or reprogramming
As far as buying certified used, I'm up for it, assuming I can find one new enough to do that with, thing is most of them have a 3 or 4 year cutoff on what they'll certifiy.
Any more suggestions on what to look at/look for?
As far as finding one, I'm not picky on anything buy the milage (not high) and the condition of the car (like new). Aside from normal test driving, I've kinda figured some stuff out to look it over extra closely to make sure there's no signs of someone returning it to stock, or screwing with it in any way. What will be even harder is trying to find out if the car has ever been tracked. Not sure how to do that. So far, this is what I've come up with:
-Drive it
-Get a compression test done
-Inspect all suspension bolts for tool marks
-check under trunk liner for signs of nitrous installation (actually picked up that one on a forum). Why you'd put N2O in a car like this though, I dunno.
- match engine/head/transmission serial numbers for continuity and matching VIN
- check oil for metal, same for trans and rear end
-Scan computer for over-rev codes
- check tires for sidewall scuffing (in case dealer is too dumb to check for that)
- brake rotors for scorching or grooves from heavy braking
-funny noises
- signs of blown shocks at low milage
- check ECU for aftermarket chip or reprogramming
As far as buying certified used, I'm up for it, assuming I can find one new enough to do that with, thing is most of them have a 3 or 4 year cutoff on what they'll certifiy.
Any more suggestions on what to look at/look for?
Last edited by Boilermaker1; Apr 24, 2005 at 11:37 PM.
Probably check under the dash for any altered wiring, which could be signs of what may have been installed in the car.
Check door panels and side panels for any signs of an audio install.
I would hate buying a car that had an audio system uninstalled...which would probably mean some tabs and such are missing.
Check door panels and side panels for any signs of an audio install.
I would hate buying a car that had an audio system uninstalled...which would probably mean some tabs and such are missing.
EDIT: I'll leave my answer out for others to guess.
I'm not sure how I got it so easily...I think its because you mentioned how eccentric the car was.
I'm not sure how I got it so easily...I think its because you mentioned how eccentric the car was.
Last edited by LiKEaFeRiO; Apr 25, 2005 at 12:46 AM.
I spend way too much time on this website
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you should just tell us what car it is... otherwise find out who the old owner was and why he got rid of it... then carfax the car to make sure he didn't lie about some of the crap he told you.
Nothing works better than a Chris except a Honda.
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research the car/cars that you want and common problems with them. check them and crosscheck the owner if you can. if its certified, check if they admit the problem and ask if the warranty covers it.
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