Engine Break-In technique....MUST READ!!!!!!!
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The Beer-man
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Engine Break-In technique....MUST READ!!!!!!!
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm 
Completely off the wall break in technique....the logic is there, but who would try this? Has anyone else ever heard of such a thing?
Completely off the wall break in technique....the logic is there, but who would try this? Has anyone else ever heard of such a thing?
kool when i buy my next car. i will put the car on while im signing the final papers. i will get in the car and floor that **** outta the dealership while the manager watches with his facial expression lookin lik this 
I went to prison a boy and came out a man with a sore ass!
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Originally Posted by 20LX02
hey i got a 2002 civic lx. yeah i know its slow. i want to add some HP on it. what would be the most affordable mods i could get for starters?
Hey, welcome to the site. Search > j00
It's slow because you think its slow.
If you want it substantially faster, turbo or swap the engine out. No cheap mods will get you speed.
I went to prison a boy and came out a man with a sore ass!
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From: Gallup/ABQ, New Mexico
Rep Power: 293 This is so cool. So, what if you find an endless amount of road. Do you floor it and bring it through the gears? How many miles would you floor it for?
Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.
Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.
Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!
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From: Milwaukee, Wisconsin, US
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Originally Posted by i8dabomb
yup...im gonna change my oil at 20 miles
anywas, as for this guy's "logic" and theory to breakin is really kinda false and misleading.
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Originally Posted by S2000man01
whoa whoa dont do that. from the factory the oil has special first time/one time addatives in it made to help break in the engine and properly seal the engine during the break in process, as well as collect any particles that may have gotten into the engine during manufacturing.
anywas, as for this guy's "logic" and theory to breakin is really kinda false and misleading.
anywas, as for this guy's "logic" and theory to breakin is really kinda false and misleading.
Exactly thats why companies recomened that you wait till 3k miles or so to change the oil.
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The Beer-man
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Originally Posted by S2000man01
whoa whoa dont do that. from the factory the oil has special first time/one time addatives in it made to help break in the engine and properly seal the engine during the break in process, as well as collect any particles that may have gotten into the engine during manufacturing.
anywas, as for this guy's "logic" and theory to breakin is really kinda false and misleading.
anywas, as for this guy's "logic" and theory to breakin is really kinda false and misleading.
Care to explain why its misleading? Those pics of the pistons sure are interesting.
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Rep Power: 0 I read that before and decide to try it with my civic. When I learned my stick and could run it though the gears I was going through the gears good. I have 800 miles on my car right now. And since like mile 45 I was at least redlining first and second and third when I was going on to the freeway. with 4th and 5th I use them on the freeway and varied rpm. I dunno if its going to hurt or help my engine but I just decided to try it.
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From: Milwaukee, Wisconsin, US
Rep Power: 400 Well I should say that honestly, driving the way he suggests actually may hold some water. Not necessarily methodical in the way he suggests, but driving the engine hard nowadays can have its benefits.
So yes, you can drive the engine hard and have it actuall help the breakin process. But NO do NOT change the oil until at LEAST 3000 miles, as the addatives the factory adds help with the breakin.
So yes, you can drive the engine hard and have it actuall help the breakin process. But NO do NOT change the oil until at LEAST 3000 miles, as the addatives the factory adds help with the breakin.
I understand what the guys saying about the break in period and the seals sealing because of gas pressure and everything. This is my thing though if you look at this picture, 
Look above the piston seals, how come there is no carbon build up above the piston seals, how is that possible. If he didnt clean the pistons then how come there is no carbon build up there above the seals??????
Look above the piston seals, how come there is no carbon build up above the piston seals, how is that possible. If he didnt clean the pistons then how come there is no carbon build up there above the seals?????? 
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From: West Palm Beach, Florida
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Originally Posted by realitycheck
If he didnt clean the pistons then how come there is no carbon build up there above the seals??????
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From: NV
Rep Power: 812 I thought our cars take up to 20k miles before fully breaking in due to the way some newer components are made (more resistant to heat and pressure).
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