Ever redline your car?
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I hit it at almost every time I drive the Ex. I drive it like I stole it. I got really scared one time. I was going about 55 and decided to drop to 3 and pass. About 6000 in three going to four. Got distracted and hit two. The car lurched and the tack needle swung off to the right. I was really quick about jamming the clutch in before it actually caught most of second. After that it started making a loud rattley noise that varied with engine speed. I thought for sure my valves were messed up. I spent that night learning how to adjust valves. Got it all together and the noise prevailed. Turned out to be the alternator pivot bolt. It was rattling against the inner fender. I must not have tightened it enough when I put the underdrive pulley on the alternator.
Moral of the story...redline the crap outta it. Why would they make the gague go to 8000 or whatever it is if that's not what the car was designed for?
Moral of the story...redline the crap outta it. Why would they make the gague go to 8000 or whatever it is if that's not what the car was designed for?
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Rep Power: 0 I bounce it off of redline almost everytime I can.
As a matter of fact thats how I blew My engine, not because of the redline, but because of a mis-shift at redline in third gear. It was when my tranny was new, and wound really tight, @7000 I pushed in the clutch and the tranny went into neutral, I pulled down and right into second. I knew what i did as soon as it happened but couldnt catch it in time, and watched the tackspin to about 7 o'clock (10,500??) and boom, that was all that it would take.
so 11 valves, a rebuilt head and $3000+ of work, and 30 days later, I got my car back with only 2,999 miles on the odometer.
As a matter of fact thats how I blew My engine, not because of the redline, but because of a mis-shift at redline in third gear. It was when my tranny was new, and wound really tight, @7000 I pushed in the clutch and the tranny went into neutral, I pulled down and right into second. I knew what i did as soon as it happened but couldnt catch it in time, and watched the tackspin to about 7 o'clock (10,500??) and boom, that was all that it would take.
so 11 valves, a rebuilt head and $3000+ of work, and 30 days later, I got my car back with only 2,999 miles on the odometer.
crazy! that would make me poo my pants.
Originally Posted by socalcivic02
I bounce it off of redline almost everytime I can.
As a matter of fact thats how I blew My engine, not because of the redline, but because of a mis-shift at redline in third gear. It was when my tranny was new, and wound really tight, @7000 I pushed in the clutch and the tranny went into neutral, I pulled down and right into second. I knew what i did as soon as it happened but couldnt catch it in time, and watched the tackspin to about 7 o'clock (10,500??) and boom, that was all that it would take.
so 11 valves, a rebuilt head and $3000+ of work, and 30 days later, I got my car back with only 2,999 miles on the odometer.
As a matter of fact thats how I blew My engine, not because of the redline, but because of a mis-shift at redline in third gear. It was when my tranny was new, and wound really tight, @7000 I pushed in the clutch and the tranny went into neutral, I pulled down and right into second. I knew what i did as soon as it happened but couldnt catch it in time, and watched the tackspin to about 7 o'clock (10,500??) and boom, that was all that it would take.
so 11 valves, a rebuilt head and $3000+ of work, and 30 days later, I got my car back with only 2,999 miles on the odometer.
My SL65 rim, because a rim is all I can afford
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Originally Posted by socalcivic02
I bounce it off of redline almost everytime I can.
As a matter of fact thats how I blew My engine, not because of the redline, but because of a mis-shift at redline in third gear. It was when my tranny was new, and wound really tight, @7000 I pushed in the clutch and the tranny went into neutral, I pulled down and right into second. I knew what i did as soon as it happened but couldnt catch it in time, and watched the tackspin to about 7 o'clock (10,500??) and boom, that was all that it would take.
so 11 valves, a rebuilt head and $3000+ of work, and 30 days later, I got my car back with only 2,999 miles on the odometer.
As a matter of fact thats how I blew My engine, not because of the redline, but because of a mis-shift at redline in third gear. It was when my tranny was new, and wound really tight, @7000 I pushed in the clutch and the tranny went into neutral, I pulled down and right into second. I knew what i did as soon as it happened but couldnt catch it in time, and watched the tackspin to about 7 o'clock (10,500??) and boom, that was all that it would take.
so 11 valves, a rebuilt head and $3000+ of work, and 30 days later, I got my car back with only 2,999 miles on the odometer.
I did soemthing really close to that, but luckily I relkiazed something was wrong and turned the igintion off, tach past the redline though, I almost went poo poo too.
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Originally Posted by S2000man01
actually when your engine is cold, your car will probably hit a rev limiter in the 4500rpm area. i dont know for sure, but that's how it is on other vtec hondas. they hit a rev limiter at the point their hi cam would engage when the engine is cold.
for example, on my car, if it's cold and my temp gauge is low, i'll hit a rev limiter at 6000rpm.
for example, on my car, if it's cold and my temp gauge is low, i'll hit a rev limiter at 6000rpm.
I really wouldn't know, I drive like a grandma when the car is cold... wait my Grandma drives an Integra Type-R...
okay I drive really slow when cold. 
Originally Posted by S2000man01
actually when your engine is cold, your car will probably hit a rev limiter in the 4500rpm area. i dont know for sure, but that's how it is on other vtec hondas. they hit a rev limiter at the point their hi cam would engage when the engine is cold.
for example, on my car, if it's cold and my temp gauge is low, i'll hit a rev limiter at 6000rpm.
for example, on my car, if it's cold and my temp gauge is low, i'll hit a rev limiter at 6000rpm.
How cold are we talking about....because i haven't seen that low of a rev limiter
i might have taken it to 6 after starting the car....once or twice....
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Rep Power: 400 cold as in temp gauge hardly shows any reading at all. once you get halfway to operating temp, vtec should work with the hi cam too.
again, i dont know if it's like that on the civics, but i know most other hondas it is.
again, i dont know if it's like that on the civics, but i know most other hondas it is.
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Rep Power: 319 All Fuel injected Honda motors, and most other modern motors with a stock ECU have what is called a "safe period" or heat up period when you start the car. It runs the motor super rich to get the cats hot. However this is normally only for 30 seconds, maybe this is what he is taking about. IN theory, if it was running 1.5 time the fuel it normally does, it could be that the higher Vtec operation would require to much fuel to maintian the 1.5 time higher fuel rate.
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Originally Posted by S2000man01
cold as in temp gauge hardly shows any reading at all. once you get halfway to operating temp, vtec should work with the hi cam too.
again, i dont know if it's like that on the civics, but i know most other hondas it is.
again, i dont know if it's like that on the civics, but i know most other hondas it is.
I don't have a civic at the moment
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Originally Posted by Civic_RedLine
Anyone ever redline your civic. Dont be scared to cuz it wont blow your engine after redlining it once. Its just like a hitting a govenor that keeps you from going over. The whole time I had my car, I probably redlined it twice from n ot looking at the tach. THe car just jolts and lets you go again. One other time was when I was racing I just pedal to the floor and lifted clutch to just screech the tires hella loud. Its not worth it to floor to car to take off.
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Originally Posted by Jrfish007
All Fuel injected Honda motors, and most other modern motors with a stock ECU have what is called a "safe period" or heat up period when you start the car. It runs the motor super rich to get the cats hot. However this is normally only for 30 seconds, maybe this is what he is taking about. IN theory, if it was running 1.5 time the fuel it normally does, it could be that the higher Vtec operation would require to much fuel to maintian the 1.5 time higher fuel rate.
when the engine is cold, vtec will NOT engage the high cam profile due to lack of oil pressure as the oil is still warming up. (since oil is used to lock the hi cam followers) So, there's a premature rev limiter on a honda that is not up to temp. it prevents you from going beyond your 'vtec' engagement point because of the fact that enough oil pressure cannot be maintained to lock the hi cam followers.
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Originally Posted by gearbox
honda motors are made for hi revs so it's all good.
I declare that to be one of the stupidest things I've heard today.
Originally Posted by S2000man01
no the 30 seconds of running rich is not what i'm talking about.
when the engine is cold, vtec will NOT engage the high cam profile due to lack of oil pressure as the oil is still warming up. (since oil is used to lock the hi cam followers) So, there's a premature rev limiter on a honda that is not up to temp. it prevents you from going beyond your 'vtec' engagement point because of the fact that enough oil pressure cannot be maintained to lock the hi cam followers.
when the engine is cold, vtec will NOT engage the high cam profile due to lack of oil pressure as the oil is still warming up. (since oil is used to lock the hi cam followers) So, there's a premature rev limiter on a honda that is not up to temp. it prevents you from going beyond your 'vtec' engagement point because of the fact that enough oil pressure cannot be maintained to lock the hi cam followers.
Cold oil = more pressure!
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Originally Posted by thegent
How about my Honda lawnmower/snowblower? Think I could rev that too up to 15k rpm?
I declare that to be one of the stupidest things I've heard today.
I declare that to be one of the stupidest things I've heard today.
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Originally Posted by pon55
30 seconds=full oil pressure!
Cold oil = more pressure!
Cold oil = more pressure!
trust me, it's because of the oil pressure and the oil temp that the pre-normal operating vtec rev limiter exists.
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Originally Posted by S2000man01
no, the computer cannot maintain proper oil pressure when the engine is cold. if i remember correctly, it's because the oil hasn't warmed up enough to operate the same as it does at operating temperature.
trust me, it's because of the oil pressure and the oil temp that the pre-normal operating vtec rev limiter exists.
trust me, it's because of the oil pressure and the oil temp that the pre-normal operating vtec rev limiter exists.
Originally Posted by S2000man01
no, the computer cannot maintain proper oil pressure when the engine is cold. if i remember correctly, it's because the oil hasn't warmed up enough to operate the same as it does at operating temperature.
trust me, it's because of the oil pressure and the oil temp that the pre-normal operating vtec rev limiter exists.
trust me, it's because of the oil pressure and the oil temp that the pre-normal operating vtec rev limiter exists.
Oil pressure is mechanical,maybe the computer can not read it, but its there! ( AND children are only sweet and crunchy after bareque-sp) 
