why it is good to redline/push your car every so often
02-07-2005
#61
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Originally Posted by nindoo
Zzyzx Calucated something like 6500rpm for optimal shifts in every gear. I think he used a java applet(forget which website) and WHP numbers I got him from AEM charts on their website, and gear ratios off the Honda site. Thats what was calucated for the EX. Its just an estimate though there so much discrepency between dynos, its hard to tell which Dyno is the best.
Woot!
Rember, the torque curve is just that... a Curve... meaning there will be a point in the curve where the Torque you would be putting donw in Gear A will equal the torque you would be making in Gear B... and thats the best time to shift. Not at the peak of torque and not past that point. and from the Limited info/Dynos I could find... the best shifting point on a relitivly un-modified EX is 6500 RPM's any higher and you make less torque then what the next highest gear would give you = slower acceleration.
(By Relitively un-modifyed I mean on where the torque curve hasnt signifigantly been altered)
02-07-2005
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Originally Posted by Mike4831
Well from first hand experience, when I was looking at a Honda, I could tell imediatley which cars had been redlined all the time. It wears the engine down, aka. drivetrain wear. The only think I could think of is that it would clean out your exhuast? Other than that it is pointless.
What drivetrain parts wear more? Is it the differential? The engine itself? The clutch? Cause if its the clutch thats caused by clutch slip which is caused by not shifting smoothly.
02-07-2005
#63
472rwhp @ 7400 RPMs and 12.93 psi
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I think you have to be careful what data you use for your gear ratios. If the car is completely stock, I think you are fine using data from Honda. However, I believe your gear ratios can change by something as simple as increasing the overall diameter of your wheels. So for those runnin anything larger than stock wheels I believe they have changed their gear ratios.
Originally Posted by nindoo
Zzyzx Calucated something like 6500rpm for optimal shifts in every gear. I think he used a java applet(forget which website) and WHP numbers I got him from AEM charts on their website, and gear ratios off the Honda site. Thats what was calucated for the EX. Its just an estimate though there so much discrepency between dynos, its hard to tell which Dyno is the best.
02-07-2005
#64
472rwhp @ 7400 RPMs and 12.93 psi
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Rep Power: 0 My sentiments exactly! You can actually suffer (performance wise) by redlining every gear.
Originally Posted by Zzyzx
Woot!
Rember, the torque curve is just that... a Curve... meaning there will be a point in the curve where the Torque you would be putting donw in Gear A will equal the torque you would be making in Gear B... and thats the best time to shift. Not at the peak of torque and not past that point. and from the Limited info/Dynos I could find... the best shifting point on a relitivly un-modified EX is 6500 RPM's any higher and you make less torque then what the next highest gear would give you = slower acceleration.
(By Relitively un-modifyed I mean on where the torque curve hasnt signifigantly been altered)
Rember, the torque curve is just that... a Curve... meaning there will be a point in the curve where the Torque you would be putting donw in Gear A will equal the torque you would be making in Gear B... and thats the best time to shift. Not at the peak of torque and not past that point. and from the Limited info/Dynos I could find... the best shifting point on a relitivly un-modified EX is 6500 RPM's any higher and you make less torque then what the next highest gear would give you = slower acceleration.
(By Relitively un-modifyed I mean on where the torque curve hasnt signifigantly been altered)
02-07-2005
#65
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Originally Posted by Zzyzx
Woot!
Rember, the torque curve is just that... a Curve... meaning there will be a point in the curve where the Torque you would be putting donw in Gear A will equal the torque you would be making in Gear B... and thats the best time to shift. Not at the peak of torque and not past that point. and from the Limited info/Dynos I could find... the best shifting point on a relitivly un-modified EX is 6500 RPM's any higher and you make less torque then what the next highest gear would give you = slower acceleration.
(By Relitively un-modifyed I mean on where the torque curve hasnt signifigantly been altered)
Rember, the torque curve is just that... a Curve... meaning there will be a point in the curve where the Torque you would be putting donw in Gear A will equal the torque you would be making in Gear B... and thats the best time to shift. Not at the peak of torque and not past that point. and from the Limited info/Dynos I could find... the best shifting point on a relitivly un-modified EX is 6500 RPM's any higher and you make less torque then what the next highest gear would give you = slower acceleration.
(By Relitively un-modifyed I mean on where the torque curve hasnt signifigantly been altered)
Originally Posted by Quick Silver
I think you have to be careful what data you use for your gear ratios. If the car is completely stock, I think you are fine using data from Honda. However, I believe your gear ratios can change by something as simple as increasing the overall diameter of your wheels. So for those runnin anything larger than stock wheels I believe they have changed their gear ratios.
why? because it's essentially the same as changing your final drive ratio, which affects every gear, so the change is universal. unless you make a MASSIVE wheel change, it wont matter.
02-07-2005
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Originally Posted by Quick Silver
You prefer to use math to determine optimal shift point. I, on the other hand, use dyno charts. If you are right and I am wrong than so be it. No hard feelings here. You may have taught me something, but I am not going to simply go with what you are saying until I validate it. Thanks for the dialogue... 
i'm going to make another thread quick, cuz this one has gotten far too off topic.
02-07-2005
#67
472rwhp @ 7400 RPMs and 12.93 psi
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Rep Power: 0 What do you consider to be a massive wheel change? Stock 15s to aftermarket 18s?
Originally Posted by S2000man01
i had done the same calculation and had found that the best shift point is redline. I may have had better info to go off of than you though.
no, that doesn't matter.
why? because it's essentially the same as changing your final drive ratio, which affects every gear, so the change is universal. unless you make a MASSIVE wheel change, it wont matter.
no, that doesn't matter.
why? because it's essentially the same as changing your final drive ratio, which affects every gear, so the change is universal. unless you make a MASSIVE wheel change, it wont matter.
02-07-2005
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Originally Posted by Quick Silver
What do you consider to be a massive wheel change? Stock 15s to aftermarket 18s?
this is because although your rim size is bigger, the tires become more low profile, and offsets the increase in rim size.
02-07-2005
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Originally Posted by S2000man01
i'm going to make another thread quick, cuz this one has gotten far too off topic.
I'm not sure who I agree with, but redline won't be optimal for every car, I know that much... maybe for our Civics but not every car.
I just wonder why you would shift when you reach peak? Wouldn't you want to shift sometime just AFTER peak? why waste peak torque?
Ahem, anyways, reving to clean your engine... I heard this too but it's probably something that only applies to people who baby-drive their car, they can probably could use a high rev like a few days after an oil change, I don't even think this is an issue for most of who love to unleash the awesome power of our D17's on a regular basis.
02-07-2005
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Rep Power: 278 i took the good 'ol civic to the redline for the first time today. Ahhh the power i've been missing out on. I had to be careful though since it is winter and the roads aren't that great. Do you just take it to the redline and than shift up or do you have to redline for a couple of seconds for it to get this carbon cleaning effect?
02-07-2005
#72
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Rep Power: 356 Well.... My civic has 90,000 Miles on it... and 2 years worth of autocross... The amount of time I've spent bouncing off the revlimiter is in the Minutes... and some how the engine is still going strong. 
has the drive train worn out.. Nope, Stock clutch even lasted me 85,000 Miles... Gears or syncros blown? Nope, only thing thats broke transmission wise was the mount between the Slave Cylinder of the clutch and the Transmission housing... and thats a Defective part, not from any amount of abuse. 
has the drive train worn out.. Nope, Stock clutch even lasted me 85,000 Miles... Gears or syncros blown? Nope, only thing thats broke transmission wise was the mount between the Slave Cylinder of the clutch and the Transmission housing... and thats a Defective part, not from any amount of abuse.
02-07-2005
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Originally Posted by S2000man01
02-07-2005
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Rep Power: 258 Back to the original point of this thread...
Specifically, it's the heat that higher rev's create that is good for cleaning up the engine. Hitting redline a few times isn't going to do it, sustained high rpm's is what you got to do.
Specifically, it's the heat that higher rev's create that is good for cleaning up the engine. Hitting redline a few times isn't going to do it, sustained high rpm's is what you got to do.
02-07-2005
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Rep Power: 0 after i got my car i was shifting at 3rpm or just under and it was sputtering so i took it in to the dealer the techs told me the car is built to rev at higher rpms
and my step father works for honda says the same thing
and my step father works for honda says the same thing
02-07-2005
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Rep Power: 788 The only time the vtec is actually working is over 4k rpms and only when the pedal is floored and engine is up to temp.
02-07-2005
#79
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Originally Posted by bhc786
The only question I have is that, can the Vtec engines take more of a beating than a Non-Vtec?
a dx can take just as much beating as an ex.
02-07-2005
#80
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Originally Posted by gearbox
The only time the vtec is actually working is over 4k rpms and only when the pedal is floored and engine is up to temp.
02-07-2005
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02-07-2005
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Rep Power: 269 a thread like this was created a while ago but i am to damn lazy to find it and now need to take a crap because i just ate school food
02-07-2005
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Originally Posted by Scatman
o god...i can just see all these guys reading this then going out and beating the **** out of their cars haha
"A guy on an internet forum told me redlining has no after effects cause I have VTEC! Let's dog the **** outta my car!"
02-07-2005
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Rep Power: 280 Do you guys flush the fluids of the car only when required by the Honda Maintenance calculator or do you do it more peridically.
Personally I change my oil every 3800miles instead of the reccomendation.
Personally I change my oil every 3800miles instead of the reccomendation.
04-18-2005
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did you not know what the other half of the tach was for?
Originally Posted by gizcivic
after i got my car i was shifting at 3rpm or just under and it was sputtering so i took it in to the dealer the techs told me the car is built to rev at higher rpms
and my step father works for honda says the same thing
and my step father works for honda says the same thing
04-18-2005
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Rep Power: 0 lala....yea some1 brought this thread back..muhhaha...neways i have an auto...i just wanted to know if its bad to floor it alot since its an auto? like can u rev high with autos alot too just liek manuals? yes sry i am a noobie 
