5th gear too short!?
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Shorter tires then stock will give you better acceleration, taller tires then stock will give you better top speed (But it will take you longer to get there)
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Originally Posted by Mystic3030
the width of the tire has nothing to do with it, its the height of the sidewall. THe larger the sidewall number the slower your gonna go. Bigger tire = less rotations per second.
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Originally Posted by EternalBlue_Vic
An automatic has 5 gears too. You're thinkin it's 4 cuz it's called a 4 speed automatic. It's only called that because you can only really control 4 speeds with it:: Neutral, 2nd, 3rd, and drive. (N, 2nd, 3rd, D) But the tranny itself have 5 gears. Someone please correct me if i'm wrong
Neutral is a gear these days?
I thought it was the absence of being in a gear.
Very strange, I got a stock LX with 5 spd and 70mph is at 2900 rpm. 2nd gear at just 7000rpm hits between 62 and 65mph and 3rd at slughtly past 7000rpm is close to 100mph. And again, my car is stock and this was on a closed track of course...be smart, stay alive...
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Originally Posted by ramboa
Very strange, I got a stock LX with 5 spd and 70mph is at 2900 rpm. 2nd gear at just 7000rpm hits between 62 and 65mph and 3rd at slughtly past 7000rpm is close to 100mph. And again, my car is stock and this was on a closed track of course...be smart, stay alive...
2002 LX coupe 5 speed
1st- 3.462
2nd-1.87
3rd- 1.241
4th- 0.97
5th-0.711
Final- 4.111
[U]2002 EX coupe 5 speed[/U]
1st- 3.143
2nd- 1.87
3rd- 1.241
4th- 0.97
5th- 0.757
Final- 4.412
See. Yours is wider.
http://www.new-cars.com/2003/honda/h...tml#powertrain
Follow the above link for the gear ratios for the FOUR gears in the automatic transmission.
Follow the above link for the gear ratios for the FOUR gears in the automatic transmission.
EX auto at 60 is 2500 RPM
And no, all auto Civics have 4 speeds. 4 forward gears. That last shift you may have thought was another gear might have been the torque convertor locking up (gets better mileage).
And no, all auto Civics have 4 speeds. 4 forward gears. That last shift you may have thought was another gear might have been the torque convertor locking up (gets better mileage).
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Originally Posted by Ramones
EX auto at 60 is 2500 RPM
And no, all auto Civics have 4 speeds. 4 forward gears. That last shift you may have thought was another gear might have been the torque convertor locking up (gets better mileage).
And no, all auto Civics have 4 speeds. 4 forward gears. That last shift you may have thought was another gear might have been the torque convertor locking up (gets better mileage).
That must have been what i felt last. My SL65 rim, because a rim is all I can afford
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I really don't see the high RPM in our engine as being a problem. If you look at the engine stroke, it's really short which means the piston velocity is not all that high (AKA our motor is over squared like a crotch rocket motor and is designed for the higher RPMs) IF you really think about, that's close to the VTEC enagement point for an EX. If you are just crusing along it can turn it off or if you need to acclerate or are facing a strong head wind the car will kick the VTEC in for a little extra power. 7thgen vtec civics have something no other previous civic has had, and that's the abilty to shift the VTEC enagement point to suite it own needs and help you get better MPG (it's part of the reason our cars are ULEM instead of LEM). Now don't get me wrong, you can't make VTEC come on at 1500 RPM or something, but the car does have about a 900 RPM (3600 - 4500 RPM I think) for which it can play with the VTEC enagement point.
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Originally Posted by Jrfish007
I really don't see the high RPM in our engine as being a problem. If you look at the engine stroke, it's really short which means the piston velocity is not all that high (AKA our motor is over squared like a crotch rocket motor and is designed for the higher RPMs) IF you really think about, that's close to the VTEC enagement point for an EX. If you are just crusing along it can turn it off or if you need to acclerate or are facing a strong head wind the car will kick the VTEC in for a little extra power. 7thgen vtec civics have something no other previous civic has had, and that's the abilty to shift the VTEC enagement point to suite it own needs and help you get better MPG (it's part of the reason our cars are ULEM instead of LEM). Now don't get me wrong, you can't make VTEC come on at 1500 RPM or something, but the car does have about a 900 RPM (3600 - 4500 RPM I think) for which it can play with the VTEC enagement point.
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Originally Posted by Jrfish007
I really don't see the high RPM in our engine as being a problem. If you look at the engine stroke, it's really short which means the piston velocity is not all that high (AKA our motor is over squared like a crotch rocket motor and is designed for the higher RPMs) IF you really think about, that's close to the VTEC enagement point for an EX. If you are just crusing along it can turn it off or if you need to acclerate or are facing a strong head wind the car will kick the VTEC in for a little extra power. 7thgen vtec civics have something no other previous civic has had, and that's the abilty to shift the VTEC enagement point to suite it own needs and help you get better MPG (it's part of the reason our cars are ULEM instead of LEM). Now don't get me wrong, you can't make VTEC come on at 1500 RPM or something, but the car does have about a 900 RPM (3600 - 4500 RPM I think) for which it can play with the VTEC enagement point.
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Originally Posted by baggedblue02
I hooked up one of those vtec lights on one very boring day and it does kick in at different points. Mine is usually about 2800 to 3200 depending on if I'm just crusing or trying to speed up. Is the gas mileage that much different when it kicks in?
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http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=155263
thats the link to the DIY. Its not hard and kinda interesting but at the same time a little pointless.
thats the link to the DIY. Its not hard and kinda interesting but at the same time a little pointless.
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Originally Posted by baggedblue02
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=155263
thats the link to the DIY. Its not hard and kinda interesting but at the same time a little pointless.
thats the link to the DIY. Its not hard and kinda interesting but at the same time a little pointless.
My SL65 rim, because a rim is all I can afford
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yeah... the gas MPG drop with the vetc on, you are putting more air in to the engine (that's the purpose of vtec) and thus more gas must also go in.
My SL65 rim, because a rim is all I can afford
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Originally Posted by EternalBlue_Vic
What do i need to change it?? Is it that a'pexi vtec controller thing i keep hearing about?? If i lower the point in which vtec comes on, would that be safe to do with nitrous??
If you want to run nitrous, you don't need to worry about vtec. Reason is that if you are about to hit the nitrous, I would hope you have the car floored, if the throttle is wide open, then vtec will kick in before you hit 3000RPM. And you should never use nitrous under 3000RPM. So the point of engaging vtec before then is pointless (not to mention the you'll probably stall your car if vtec is engaged to low.
Just a tip on nitrous, with our cars, get the wet kit, dry kits raise the pressure of the fuel to get more fuel in, and our cars with their non fuel return system take take that. I highly recomend the ZEX system.
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Originally Posted by Jrfish007
one of those VFAC II (sp?) controller can change the point at which vtec comes on, but if you are going to use your car daily, I wouldn't remended it. Honda has put alot of time and money into figuring out when to have the vtec come on and go off, why mess with it? But that thing won't lower the point the vtec kicks in, it wil simply make into a static point that vtec is always turn on at. The only time you really need one of those is if you get a really aggressive cam.
If you want to run nitrous, you don't need to worry about vtec. Reason is that if you are about to hit the nitrous, I would hope you have the car floored, if the throttle is wide open, then vtec will kick in before you hit 3000RPM. And you should never use nitrous under 3000RPM. So the point of engaging vtec before then is pointless (not to mention the you'll probably stall your car if vtec is engaged to low.
Just a tip on nitrous, with our cars, get the wet kit, dry kits raise the pressure of the fuel to get more fuel in, and our cars with their non fuel return system take take that. I highly recomend the ZEX system.
If you want to run nitrous, you don't need to worry about vtec. Reason is that if you are about to hit the nitrous, I would hope you have the car floored, if the throttle is wide open, then vtec will kick in before you hit 3000RPM. And you should never use nitrous under 3000RPM. So the point of engaging vtec before then is pointless (not to mention the you'll probably stall your car if vtec is engaged to low.
Just a tip on nitrous, with our cars, get the wet kit, dry kits raise the pressure of the fuel to get more fuel in, and our cars with their non fuel return system take take that. I highly recomend the ZEX system.
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Originally Posted by EternalBlue_Vic
Cool, thanx for keeping me from wasting money on that thing. Oh and about the nitrous......of course i'm getting the wet. I've heard the cons of dry nitrous over and over. So ya recommend Zex?? I'm kinda stuck on either getting the Edelbrock wet kit, or the zex wet kit. How much tuning has to go into the wet kit to get the fuel jet right for a 55 shot?
My recomendations are
1. get a good set of plugs, iridum works really well
2. run a synthetic good oil. Synthetic can withstand higher heat transfer than standard oil, this not usually need on our car since they don't generate much heat, but when using nitrous thing change realy fast. I would go with Royal Pural 0W20, or Mobile one 5W20, either work great.
3. use the highest octane gas you can find (with in reason). Here in Ohio, 94 is readly aviable and 93 is at every gas station. The kits are designed for 91, so if you can get a 93, this keep everything safe. This should be number 1, but I thought of thrid, but this is the most important thing. and always run the high grade gas, even if you think you are not going to use the nitrous for a while, because you may have a 1/4 tank of 87, fill it up with 91, but then you only really have about 90 octane fuel after it's mixed, and that can blow you engine up. Bad gas is how people blow their engines up with nitrous.
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Originally Posted by Jrfish007
The Edelbrock is kinda of new to me (keep in mind I last used Nitrous about 3 year ago on a '94 civic). But I used the Zex kit and no real tuning was involed, the tuning is all in the little black box they provide and you hook up. The whole system is not hard to set up.
My recomendations are
1. get a good set of plugs, iridum works really well
2. run a synthetic good oil. Synthetic can withstand higher heat transfer than standard oil, this not usually need on our car since they don't generate much heat, but when using nitrous thing change realy fast. I would go with Royal Pural 0W20, or Mobile one 5W20, either work great.
3. use the highest octane gas you can find (with in reason). Here in Ohio, 94 is readly aviable and 93 is at every gas station. The kits are designed for 91, so if you can get a 93, this keep everything safe. This should be number 1, but I thought of thrid, but this is the most important thing. and always run the high grade gas, even if you think you are not going to use the nitrous for a while, because you may have a 1/4 tank of 87, fill it up with 91, but then you only really have about 90 octane fuel after it's mixed, and that can blow you engine up. Bad gas is how people blow their engines up with nitrous.
My recomendations are
1. get a good set of plugs, iridum works really well
2. run a synthetic good oil. Synthetic can withstand higher heat transfer than standard oil, this not usually need on our car since they don't generate much heat, but when using nitrous thing change realy fast. I would go with Royal Pural 0W20, or Mobile one 5W20, either work great.
3. use the highest octane gas you can find (with in reason). Here in Ohio, 94 is readly aviable and 93 is at every gas station. The kits are designed for 91, so if you can get a 93, this keep everything safe. This should be number 1, but I thought of thrid, but this is the most important thing. and always run the high grade gas, even if you think you are not going to use the nitrous for a while, because you may have a 1/4 tank of 87, fill it up with 91, but then you only really have about 90 octane fuel after it's mixed, and that can blow you engine up. Bad gas is how people blow their engines up with nitrous.
Already a step ahead of ya....well not really, but just an expression. I've already got a set of NGK copper plus set aside, already always get synthetic, and also already always get 93 octane fuel. Highest in my area is 93. Reason why i'm leaning towards the zex kit is cuz from what i think i've heard, i can change the jets to run either 35, 55, or 75 shot. Only thing it says on the edelbrock kit is 40-60hp. Is that a generalization?? Dosen't tell what kind of shot it is. So basically the zex is just a hook up and tunes it's self?? How did the 94 civic withstand the nitrous??? I see you didn't blow yourself up so i'm guessing pretty well. Haha.
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Originally Posted by cdmx
hahahaha at the 5 speed auto.........look your car up
All auto's are 4 speed
All auto's are 4 speed



