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It's official: newer civics hate mods

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Old Sep 3, 2004
  #61  
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turbo
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Old Sep 3, 2004
  #62  
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I ran my car on 91 oct for a couple of weeks and found that it didnt start up as well. After taking a ride in my neighbors recently updated 89 corvette, which now has a 454 engine, i weap while driving my civic.
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Old Sep 4, 2004
  #63  
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Originally Posted by SpeedFreak
I ran my car on 91 oct for a couple of weeks and found that it didnt start up as well. After taking a ride in my neighbors recently updated 89 corvette, which now has a 454 engine, i weap while driving my civic.

That's interesting, I run 93 octane all the time and have never had a problem starting... what model is your car?

Also, does your neighbor, drive that vette everyday? If he does, he could have bought a civic for what he'll be paying in gas for that thing. I know, I had a 454 in my last truck... 8 MPG
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Old Sep 5, 2004
  #64  
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makes me wonder if civics are or can be fast...
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Old Sep 5, 2004
  #65  
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They can be fast with turbo and nitrous. That's it. Boltons don't help much, nor does having an auto instead of stick. Best way to keep the little power we have is do maintenance stuff. Make sure everything's clean, new air filter, plugs, etc.
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Old Sep 5, 2004
  #66  
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Originally Posted by gearbox
They can be fast with turbo and nitrous. That's it. Boltons don't help much, nor does having an auto instead of stick. Best way to keep the little power we have is do maintenance stuff. Make sure everything's clean, new air filter, plugs, etc.
word. when i had my CAI and exhaust the car felt a little faster when WOT on freeways but it was still hella slow. i switched back to stock and it still feels the same only faster in the low end, so i now protest against any bolts unless you get a turbo. i'm sticking with suspension/handling mods, those actually make a difference you can feel, and ICE. makes me sad thinking of all the money i wasted on bolt on crap.
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Old Sep 5, 2004
  #67  
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Anyone try lighter engine components? Anyone changed the valves or cam gears?
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Old Sep 5, 2004
  #68  
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I have race valves with the port work and it seems to help a little. Although with the new header, the engine bay gets really hot. Cam gear isn't really necessary unless the cam is changed or you get nitrous.
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Old Sep 8, 2004
  #69  
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i think u just cant fix and match.. if u want high end.. just get high end mods.. mixing and matching will only make things harder.. gearbox what are your quarter mile times as you added parts?
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Old Sep 8, 2004
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Originally Posted by TurboDreamZ
i think u just cant fix and match.. if u want high end.. just get high end mods.. mixing and matching will only make things harder.. gearbox what are your quarter mile times as you added parts?
True, things designed for high end won't perform well on low end, unless something that can be bypassed at some point, ie. dual stage intake manifold, but still, top end is not that good on dual stage(look at GSR vs. ITR)....

Originally Posted by Jrfish007
That's interesting, I run 93 octane all the time and have never had a problem starting... what model is your car?

Also, does your neighbor, drive that vette everyday? If he does, he could have bought a civic for what he'll be paying in gas for that thing. I know, I had a 454 in my last truck... 8 MPG
I used to run 93 for about a year....Later decoded OBD-II and found out the timing advanced by 30 degree at LOW RPM....If I take a 180 deg for piston going upward, assume that spark occurs at TDC, then a 30 degree will make the compression ratio about 1/6 less than stock spec(assume the distance is linear, if not, the case will be much worse since the piston travels slower at the bottom and accelerates to the top), and also, the work that produces from the ignition will push against the work coming up from the piston, which is too bad.....

I actually posted the equation for a cylinder that produces work. If the spark ignites well before the mixture is compressed, the work produced is significantly lower than it should be, and eventually risking rod damage.....The higher the octane to put into the car, the worse senario it will be.....

Don't forget that horsepower is the differential form of work within a given time..

Last edited by 82801BA; Sep 8, 2004 at 01:58 AM.
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Old Sep 8, 2004
  #71  
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engine mods are a waste of money...except maybe if you're going turbo or getting a swap
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Old Sep 8, 2004
  #72  
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I'm running 93 octane cause my head is milled. It didn't help with the shaking tho. Is there any way to be sure what octane to use? Should I go back to 89?
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Old Sep 8, 2004
  #73  
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**** happens
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Old Sep 8, 2004
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Jrfish007
Depends how fast the tow truck is...

The reason I say that ios because the truck that motor is weighs just over 5500lbs, and my civic weighs about half that.

True... but I was thinking that if you had 720 FT/LB of torque on the front of your civic, you'd do nothing but spin the tires........
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Old Sep 8, 2004
  #75  
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Originally Posted by Zzyzx
True... but I was thinking that if you had 720 FT/LB of torque on the front of your civic, you'd do nothing but spin the tires........
Yeah... you would have to have a serious differential and tires. But if I was going to go through all that, I should probably empoly some sort of AWD drive system, maybe a Skyline one? I'm not going to think to much on that one though, seeing that my civic will never even see a quarter of that much power nor a V8 diesel or turbo.

Last edited by Jrfish007; Sep 8, 2004 at 03:32 PM.
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Old Sep 8, 2004
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I would say, unless the compression ratio is raised due to various method:
1. Sand down the head
2. Turbo
3. Raising the temperature by allowing exhuast gas mix with fresh air(cam gear adjust) too much
Everything else, 87 is good to minimize timing advance.....

Gearbox, what kind of shaking is that in your milled head?
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Old Sep 8, 2004
  #77  
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Head is milled 1mm. When car is in drive and idling, the car shakes back and forth whn you let off the brakes. If I turn on the AC and the rpms go up by 100 or so, the shaking stops.
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Old Sep 8, 2004
  #78  
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The car is 127 HP but its WHP is something like 110 or 115. Is there anyway to expose the missing Horsepower to the wheel?
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Old Sep 8, 2004
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Originally Posted by dacivic
Turbo/Swap = only way
damn straight
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Old Sep 8, 2004
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Originally Posted by gearbox
Head is milled 1mm. When car is in drive and idling, the car shakes back and forth whn you let off the brakes. If I turn on the AC and the rpms go up by 100 or so, the shaking stops.
Have you adjusted the idling? It seems like it's idling problem.
If you adjust and it doesn't work, I have to find out before I can give you the answer.
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Old Sep 8, 2004
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Originally Posted by nindoo
The car is 127 HP but its WHP is something like 110 or 115. Is there anyway to expose the missing Horsepower to the wheel?
Well, remove PS pulley and run light weight Alt pulley will give you a 120hp...But does that make any good?

My car's hp is 105.8 at the wheel, sucks....
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Old Sep 8, 2004
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Hey I already tried to play with idle. It's at 700rpms, which is the recommended idle in neutral. I tried to bump it up a bit, but the cel came on.
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Old Sep 10, 2004
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Originally Posted by 82801BA
Well, remove PS pulley and run light weight Alt pulley will give you a 120hp...But does that make any good?

My car's hp is 105.8 at the wheel, sucks....

This won't damage your car will it?
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Old Sep 10, 2004
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Not running accessories won't damage the car. They're just extra things. You're gonna have a hard time turning the wheel tho. AC is prolly the safest to get rid of, and maybe the alt a little if you don't have a big system.
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Old Sep 10, 2004
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has anyone tried removing the cat? What does that do? Is it more trouble than its worth?
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Old Sep 10, 2004
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Alot of people here don't have a cat or they replaced with a hi flow model. It makes your car pollute more for some extra power.
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Old Sep 10, 2004
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Originally Posted by gearbox
Head is milled 1mm. When car is in drive and idling, the car shakes back and forth whn you let off the brakes. If I turn on the AC and the rpms go up by 100 or so, the shaking stops.
You probably have a vacuum leak?
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Old Sep 10, 2004
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Originally Posted by gearbox
Alot of people here don't have a cat or they replaced with a hi flow model. It makes your car pollute more for some extra power.
It needs some type of back pressure, I don't think you would gain much... maybe lose. Gain some noise tho!
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Old Sep 10, 2004
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best guess

Originally Posted by dalaw
You probably have a vacuum leak?
same thing happend on my cousins stock race car...
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Old Sep 10, 2004
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Where would I look? I saw a few lines going to the TB sensors. They weren't really clamped down much but felt okay. Maybe I'll check into that.
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