zachgeyer

iTrader: (3)

turbo

SpeedFreak

I ran my car on 91 oct for a couple of weeks and found that it didnt start up as well. After taking a ride in my neighbors recently updated 89 corvette, which now has a 454 engine, i weap while driving my civic.

Jrfish007

iTrader: (3)

That's interesting, I run 93 octane all the time and have never had a problem starting... what model is your car?

Also, does your neighbor, drive that vette everyday? If he does, he could have bought a civic for what he'll be paying in gas for that thing. I know, I had a 454 in my last truck... 8 MPG

rEkKaShInObI

makes me wonder if civics are or can be fast...

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

They can be fast with turbo and nitrous. That's it. Boltons don't help much, nor does having an auto instead of stick. Best way to keep the little power we have is do maintenance stuff. Make sure everything's clean, new air filter, plugs, etc.

EnProceso

iTrader: (11)

word. when i had my CAI and exhaust the car felt a little faster when WOT on freeways but it was still hella slow. i switched back to stock and it still feels the same only faster in the low end, so i now protest against any bolts unless you get a turbo. i'm sticking with suspension/handling mods, those actually make a difference you can feel, and ICE. makes me sad thinking of all the money i wasted on bolt on crap.

nindoo

iTrader: (1)

Anyone try lighter engine components? Anyone changed the valves or cam gears?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

I have race valves with the port work and it seems to help a little. Although with the new header, the engine bay gets really hot. Cam gear isn't really necessary unless the cam is changed or you get nitrous.

TurboDreamZ

iTrader: (1)

i think u just cant fix and match.. if u want high end.. just get high end mods.. mixing and matching will only make things harder.. gearbox what are your quarter mile times as you added parts?

82801BA

True, things designed for high end won't perform well on low end, unless something that can be bypassed at some point, ie. dual stage intake manifold, but still, top end is not that good on dual stage(look at GSR vs. ITR)....

I used to run 93 for about a year....Later decoded OBD-II and found out the timing advanced by 30 degree at LOW RPM....If I take a 180 deg for piston going upward, assume that spark occurs at TDC, then a 30 degree will make the compression ratio about 1/6 less than stock spec(assume the distance is linear, if not, the case will be much worse since the piston travels slower at the bottom and accelerates to the top), and also, the work that produces from the ignition will push against the work coming up from the piston, which is too bad.....

I actually posted the equation for a cylinder that produces work. If the spark ignites well before the mixture is compressed, the work produced is significantly lower than it should be, and eventually risking rod damage.....The higher the octane to put into the car, the worse senario it will be.....

Don't forget that horsepower is the differential form of work within a given time..

Changu-San

iTrader: (1)

engine mods are a waste of money...except maybe if you're going turbo or getting a swap

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

I'm running 93 octane cause my head is milled. It didn't help with the shaking tho. Is there any way to be sure what octane to use? Should I go back to 89?

FuzzBeC00L

iTrader: (4)

**** happens

Zzyzx

True... but I was thinking that if you had 720 FT/LB of torque on the front of your civic, you'd do nothing but spin the tires........

Jrfish007

iTrader: (3)

Yeah... you would have to have a serious differential and tires. But if I was going to go through all that, I should probably empoly some sort of AWD drive system, maybe a Skyline one? I'm not going to think to much on that one though, seeing that my civic will never even see a quarter of that much power nor a V8 diesel or turbo.

82801BA

I would say, unless the compression ratio is raised due to various method:
1. Sand down the head
2. Turbo
3. Raising the temperature by allowing exhuast gas mix with fresh air(cam gear adjust) too much
Everything else, 87 is good to minimize timing advance.....

Gearbox, what kind of shaking is that in your milled head?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Head is milled 1mm. When car is in drive and idling, the car shakes back and forth whn you let off the brakes. If I turn on the AC and the rpms go up by 100 or so, the shaking stops.

nindoo

iTrader: (1)

The car is 127 HP but its WHP is something like 110 or 115. Is there anyway to expose the missing Horsepower to the wheel?

Wolfgang5884

iTrader: (3)

damn straight

82801BA

Have you adjusted the idling? It seems like it's idling problem.
If you adjust and it doesn't work, I have to find out before I can give you the answer.

82801BA

Well, remove PS pulley and run light weight Alt pulley will give you a 120hp...But does that make any good?

My car's hp is 105.8 at the wheel, sucks....

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Hey I already tried to play with idle. It's at 700rpms, which is the recommended idle in neutral. I tried to bump it up a bit, but the cel came on.

nindoo

iTrader: (1)

This won't damage your car will it?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Not running accessories won't damage the car. They're just extra things. You're gonna have a hard time turning the wheel tho. AC is prolly the safest to get rid of, and maybe the alt a little if you don't have a big system.

nindoo

iTrader: (1)

has anyone tried removing the cat? What does that do? Is it more trouble than its worth?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Alot of people here don't have a cat or they replaced with a hi flow model. It makes your car pollute more for some extra power.

dalaw

You probably have a vacuum leak?

04exvic

It needs some type of back pressure, I don't think you would gain much... maybe lose. Gain some noise tho!

Diver

same thing happend on my cousins stock race car...

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

Where would I look? I saw a few lines going to the TB sensors. They weren't really clamped down much but felt okay. Maybe I'll check into that.