Dyno'd the mazdaspeed
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Rep Power: 0 Dyno'd the mazdaspeed
Pretty much stock, except for a cold air intake that I made myself. 151 hp and 151 lbs/trq at the wheels. Sucks. The exhaust is holding back alot of power. small downpipe, 2 cats, and less than 2" cat back "mazdaspeed" exhaust. All needs to be changed ASAP. Most likely going to a 2.5" single high flow cat with a 3" cat back exhaust. Oh and its only producing 5psi stock, so a manual boost controller is coming too. Up the boost to about 8psi. I'll find the dyno later when I get back and scan it.
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Rep Power: 0 sounds like a good run to me. that exhaust is a Mazdaspeed exhaust i thought it was Racing Beat? if not that i know something on that car is made by Racing Beat b/c i saw it at a new car show last year and was pretty impressed.
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Rep Power: 304 The exhaust is a Racing Beat exhaust. The same EXACT one from the MP3. It just says "Mazdaspeed" on the tip is all. It's not a good exhaust for turbo. Go to www.msprotege.com and get the Ion turboback exhaust. It's definitely a good piece, and you'll see great gains from it. If you don't want it to be too loud, you can also get high flow cats from prosport, and I think Ion offers it as well. For truely impressive gains, get the actual Injen CAI made for the MSP, and the Ion FMIC setup. Then get your boost controller. I recommend fuel and timing management first however, as well as pauter rods and pistons. Search the protege site you'll find em. At that point you could run up to 15 psi reliably, and be definitely putting some nice numbers to the ground. If you still crave more, get the Ion direct bolt on T28 "disco potato." Same housing as the stock T25, but different internals. Good for up to 400 hp, and will run more efficiently at lower boost levels than the T25. This turbo upgrade will run you about 1700.
I can't stress enough engine and fuel management on this car. You don't want to detonate, or throw a rod. As you know the MSP runs insanely rich, and this is not good for FI cars. You need to be able to retard the timing as you increase boost. Do it right, and you'll be running more than enough power reliably. Do it half assed, and you'll go boom.
You need to remember though, that the MSP wasn't designed to be a drag strip monster like the SRT-4 was. If that's what you want out of it, cool, it's better than other cars, but you might be disappointed in the long run. The MSP was designed to be a TRACK monster. In other words, auto cross and road racing. So ask yourself what you want out of the car, because drag racing is the only motor sport where you'd need insane amounts of power, although the MSP would benefit from some added performance regardless of what you plan for it.
Sorry if I started to ramble a bit, but it seems that since your dynoing your car so early in the game, you might be into the drag racing thing.
Hit me up if you got any other questions, I'm still working pretty hard on my setup.
Peace.
I can't stress enough engine and fuel management on this car. You don't want to detonate, or throw a rod. As you know the MSP runs insanely rich, and this is not good for FI cars. You need to be able to retard the timing as you increase boost. Do it right, and you'll be running more than enough power reliably. Do it half assed, and you'll go boom.
You need to remember though, that the MSP wasn't designed to be a drag strip monster like the SRT-4 was. If that's what you want out of it, cool, it's better than other cars, but you might be disappointed in the long run. The MSP was designed to be a TRACK monster. In other words, auto cross and road racing. So ask yourself what you want out of the car, because drag racing is the only motor sport where you'd need insane amounts of power, although the MSP would benefit from some added performance regardless of what you plan for it.
Sorry if I started to ramble a bit, but it seems that since your dynoing your car so early in the game, you might be into the drag racing thing.
Hit me up if you got any other questions, I'm still working pretty hard on my setup.
Peace.
Last edited by nookiemonster; 02-03-2004 at 06:42 PM.
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Rep Power: 304 by the way, dynos are notorious for being inconsistent. One dyno tech might tell you you're putting one number, and another might tell you something else. I only use the dyno to test the effectiveness of a bolt on or modification. I.E., dyno before putting on the intake, and again after, on the same machine preferably on the same day with the same conditions. Then you can see what said mod is REALLY doing for you. To just go down and dyno your car blindly serves little purpose other than confusion.
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Rep Power: 0 My intake is an exact copy of the Injen, same shape, size, everything. Heck even has an Injen filter on the end, plus I cut out the splash guard infront of the left front tire (where the filter sits), so on non rainy days its getting a lot of nice fresh air. On rainy days i just bolt the splash guard back on. I don't want a turbo-back exhaust, I need one cat at least. From all the sound clips I've heard...the thermal 3" cat back sounds the best, so thats my choice most likely (its not like there's a ton of ehxaust systems avalible). The apex motorosports downpipe w/ cat seems good to me also. I'd be happy with that combination. And to avoid inconsistancies normally assosiated with dyno numbers, you do all of your freaking runs at the same DYNO! kinda simple....Carboys, a local shop here in Houston, is where all of my dyno runs will take place. That way I can compare my numbers to get a good idea of gains associated with the parts I add. Don't worry, I know my ****.
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Rep Power: 304 I know what you mean by doing all runs at the same dyno, but what I'm telling you is that 151 on both ends of the spectrum could be 165 at someone else's dyno, while 140 at another. Just saying take it all in with a grain of salt.
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Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by nookiemonster
Just don't be disappointed by a dyno run man
Just don't be disappointed by a dyno run man
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