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Hello all. New to the forum. As introduction I'm from Ohio, moved to NC and I currently drive a 2012 Honda civic lx. After buying it used we almost have it paid off, but once we do I want to spend the freed up money to get it right. In that spirit I'm looking for opinions on several things.

Headlight bulbs? Has anyone found any LEDs that are plug and play for this model?

Shocks and struts: it's my daily driver so I'd really like something nice and smooth. Not too crazy on the wallet though.

Exhaust or muffler: it's starting to sound rough. Almost like an old man you're trying to get up from a good nap.

It's already got 145k miles on it and I doubt the transmission has ever been flushed. It's beginning to shift slightly rough, but only while you're light on the gas pedal. If you're actually pushing moderately it shifts fine, but it still makes me nervous.

I'd really hope to get another 100k+ miles out of this thing so I'm open to suggestions. Thank you for reading this and have a good day.

 
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Welcome to the forum.

Performance or OEM type stuff. For OEM look at replacing with KYB.

If you want it back to OEM sound go to a muffler shop and have them put a new muffler on it and check for any leaks or rust.

I would do a drain and fill not a "flush".

 
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I was told by another to try this as well. I've always been told if the fluid hasn't been changed by a certain point it's better not to touch it. Will doing this a few times help smooth out the shifting?

 
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Yes it very well may smooth it out.

That is sort of a old wives tale. Honda’s don’t like to be flushed with a machine though so just do a drain and fill 3 times.

 
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Should I do them all back to back like within the same day or two or can I just do them at say each oil change? At the end of the 3rd or 4th drain and fill should I also change the filter?

 
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I would do a drain and fill. Then maybe drive it around for a few miles and do another drain and fill and repeat. It’s up to you though. Not sure exactly how the dealer does it but they don’t take days to do it so it can’t be much more then a drain, fill and run it through the gears. The filter would be good to replace also.

 
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I talked to the dealership and they said they do 3 drain and fills back to back. Same day, so it's like you say. I was thinking of having the dealership do it for me even though having watched the process it looks as easy as changing the oil, with the addition of switching from reverse to neutral to drive and repeat, and then drive a few miles and repeat the whole process again. I'm just curious why it was common thought that after a certain point it was better to just not change the fluid at all and if there is such a point should I be concerned that I've reached it? I just don't want to change the fluid and be left with a car that won't run or shift gears.

 
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I think the fear is from people who get the system flushed with a machine. If your trans has been neglected for 100k miles and then you go forcing liquid cleaner through it things might let loose. Honda’s drain and fill technique is pretty safe. With your transmission operating good and just having a slight hesitation I would do the drain and fill. Chances are it was maintained and if it wasn’t it’s in good mechanical shape.

 
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Good enough for me. I can just do it myself and save $200~. Thanks. Onto another part of the car. Anyone find any plug and play LED headlights for the civic?

 
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Just search "whatever bulb size LED" in Amazon. Don't buy the cheap ones, pick something with good reviews

 
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What kind of coolant does anyone recommend or is this a no brainer and just stick with the regular Honda coolant.

 
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Always Honda Coolant.

 
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Ok I pretty much assumed as much, but on the off chance there was a better alternative I figured I'd ask. Thanks.

 
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People have used the Prestone equivalent and have had no issues I just like to use the OEM stuff personally. Not just with Honda but in my VW I use OEM as well.

 
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When I replace the front struts and rear shocks are there any other parts that I might as well swap out while I'm in there?

 
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Ball joints, end links, tie rod ends and control arm bushings.