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I mean, might be okay. A 168 usually around 5W power draw, which draws like ~420mA. Assuming 10W from that length of strip, you're looking at ~830mA. Accessory fuse that it's linked to is likely a 10A or 15A fuse. In the grand scheme of things, you're not really running much extra on that circuit.
test voltage at car plug
test amperage at car plug
voltage x amperage = wattage
remember, unlike voltage, amperage is measured across a component, in parallel.
so to test amperage, test on the two sides of the plug, while its pluged into the bulb.
voltage you just touch one side of the multimeter leads to the positive wire, the other lead you tough to an open metal part of the car body.
Thank you so much for your response, mac25, that makes sense on how to measure, and I would like to measure. But (embarrassingly) I've never really been able to figure out how to use a multimeter, even after watching youtube videos, etc.
This is my multimeter. I know the range **** needs to be set on the DC side, but which 'number'?
set to 20. You want to exceed the voltage you're measuring, but not too much. Typical vehicle electrical system operates on 12VDC (11.5-14.2 or so, realistically)
That socket is supplying power to a standard 168 halogen bulb, so I can almost assure you it's sending 12VDC to that socket. Overloading the current of that entire circuit is what's the bigger "worry," but it's a low power LED strip, so it's a low impact load. You'll know you're overloading the circuit if it starts to pop the interior lighting fuse. I highly doubt adding less than 1A to an otherwise stock interior lighting circuit will pop that fuse.
Yep, it read 12.4 at the socket without the bulb installed, and the same with the bulb on (I could touch the probes to the copper colored leads inside the plastic). Per mac25's post, that means 144w, but I don't think I'm doing it right since the numbers are the same. In any case, I plan to go ahead and try it out. It's easily reversible, and I will carry extra fuses just in case. Thanks!
yeah, you were definitely using the wrong numbers. To measure current (amperage), you have to switch the ground probe to that empty socket, and run it in series with your load. However, google search for a standard 168 bulb shows they're typically 4.9W bulbs at 14V, and by mac's equation, those bulbs draw 350mA (or .35A). If your strip is 15W (and using the same 14V), it'll be drawing 1071mA (1.071A), and since the 168 bulb and LED strip would be in parallel, that little portion of the circuit would be drawing a total of 1421mA (1.421A)
