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Hi Guys,
I'm a first time car owner. My first car is the 2017 honda civic ex-t
I was doing some researching on changing engine oil and i understand that i have to change both engine oil and oil filter at the same time.
I am going to use the Mobil 1 Extended Performances with the Mobil 1 M1-110 Extended Performance Oil Filter. According to the mobil website, they said that the oil filter can last up to 15,000 miles and the engine oil can also last up to 15,000 miles

Would you recommend doing that? or something better?
All input is great.

THank you,

 
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I have extensive knowledge (6 years working at Mobil 1) of mobil 1000, 2000 and 1, but I havn't used the extended performance.

Mobil 1 is rated at 10,000km or 6200 miles, and burns off in most vehicles around 12,000km+, 7500miles. So the rating is bang on for most vehicles.

I'd monitor the Annual Protection oil after 7500miles, check the dipstick on a flat surface every month for the first time running it, until it starts to burn or you reach the 15,000 mile point.

And what every you do, do not skimp on the filter, average filters run up to 6200miles easily, but going to 15,000 could result in the paper like filter in most average filters, turning into paper mache in your engine. I've seen that a few times with people driving overdue with average filters.

 
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"UP TO" includes zero.
"Up to" doesn't automatically mean it will last that long.

Also, you have a turbo on that engine and that can contribute a lot of heat to the oil and that can shorten its life. Don't do it. If a related problem ever comes up you could be denied warranty coverage.
Follow what the manufacturer says to the letter (or more often) meaning follow the maintenance minder system (reminder comes on when it determines 15% oil life remains) or one year intervals, whichever comes first.

If you DIY: Thoroughly document every service in a log (dates and mileages), and for proof you need to save your receipts and everything pertaining to your DIY maintenance services.



Oil changes are CHEAP.
Engines and major parts are expensive.

 
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thank you for your advice, i will monitor it. at 5,000 and 7,500 miles.
When you say monitor, do you mean just see if the engine light warning shows up? This time it shows up at 15%.
Also, is there some kind of service log book i should get? or just some book will work?

 
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Thank you, you are right, oil changes are cheap and engines and major parts are expensive, really expensive. I will definitely be very careful and monitor it on the maintenance reminder system closely.
One other question, the maintenance minder system, does it reminds you after a certain miles or it actually reminds you depending on the engine oil itself?

 
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I thought the wrench lit up at 15% remaining. And, stays lit until MM is reset.

It knows nothing about oils current condition, or level. Just its age.

In 10-12 years never once seen the wrench lit (I use a 5k interval for maintenance)

 
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Ah i see, so i will probably see the wrench come up again in the next 5,000 miles once i changed it out and reset it.

I actually notice mine when it was 15% also. I actually tried calling the dealership way before hand, but every time i call their service managers were always busy and they said on of the service managers will give me a call back. Being a first time car owner, I didn't know if there was a special requirement where the car need to be taken in for the first checkup. That is the reason why i call. I tried calling them 3 or 4 times in a month time and every time, service managers were busy and i never got a call back.This 15% literally popped up this past friday after getting home from school. SO, i figured if they were this unreliable on calling back when they said they will every time. How reliable can they be on changing my oil engine and what crap oil and filter will they be putting in. That lead me to start doing research on doing it myself and now i'm just waiting for the parts to do the oil change.

 
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^^ If MM was reset properly to 100%, it will take longer then 5k miles for it to return

 
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Neither.

The minder system is more than a simple mileage counter. It is flexible, DOES watch how you drive and the conditions you drive in, and varies the service period accordingly.
I've seen the minders allow anywhere from 4000 miles to over 10,000 (most I've seen was close to 12k IIRC), depending on how a car is driven.


It has NO way to directly monitor the condition or level of anything on the car.
It has no way of knowing the oil got changed, you or your service provider must manually reset the maintenance minder.
(Same goes for the tire calibration, you have to start the reset process manually any time someone touches tire pressure or rotates tires)


The maintenance minder system is based entirely on a model, and that model requires the use of products that meet or exceed the design specs. You have to use the right oil and all that.

If you take it to a Jizzy Lube and a rookie somehow fills it with used 15w40, the minder system has no way of determining the oil installed was completely wrong.

You have to check your own oil level and other fluids on a regular basis too, the car doesn't monitor levels.....that red gravy boat light comes on after it's too late.

 
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Managers normally don't have time to play phone tag and 20 questions, that's the service writers job.

Just call the service department and say "The wrench light came on and oil life says 15%, I need to schedule an oil change."

They will probably ask if there are any other letters and numbers on the display, like B 1 2 or something. Each of these is a different service, see your owners manual for details.
Check prices, they can vary a lot.


Oil change price at my dealer is well below the local quickylube joints prices, and we use the genuine Honda filter and Hondas approved oils.
My dealer changes the filter with every oil change service, not just the B service.

 
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ezone thats why i dont follow or care what the maintenance minder says on the dash Listen the maintenence minder could care less if You use cheap oil in the engine or not it has No way of telling the difference thats why its LOL

 
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That's why we use Hondas approved oils at our shop. WE know it's right.

 
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I did, but there next available date was way too far off. The first few time I initially called was to ask when i need to bring in my car for the first time so i can make an appointment in advance because i figured the dealership will probably to busy on short notice. So when i ask the people who pick up the phone 'when do i need to bring in my new car for the first service?' they were not able to answer me, they said they will ask the service managers and have them call me back. My question was the same every time the 3-4 times i call. I give up calling and google and read the manual and understood that it is first 5000 to 7000 miles for the first service, but that is where i dropped the ball and forgot to call to make a schedule when i found that out.

The dealership i got my car from charge 79.98 for engine oil change, i do not know what they change and what oil they will use, or filter they will use.

 
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Mobil 1 engine oil and oil filter are pretty good though right?

I'm just basing this all on reading and googling. That is exactly why i am here to get input from all you guys who has experience and sounds like work in the field too.

I'm so glad i posted and ask here, really am and thank you again so much for all the inputs!

 
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that is part of the reason why i'm considering DIY the basic stuff that i can, but i want to do it right.

 
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if it's a dealership they're going to use honda oil and honda filters...

 
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A few of you mentioned honda oil and honda filters, so i was doing more searching around at it and from the price i found, both items by honda are more expensive then the mobil 1 product that my previous research lead me to use.
I couldn't really find much reason how any engine oil and filters different to be honest, but i am curious

Is there a reason why honda oil and honda filter is more expensive then mobil1 and other products?

 
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Where I am Honda offers the cheapest synthetic 0w20 oil change, around $55-$60 Cdn.
Most other places is $82+tax for synthetic.
I do my own oil changes, I buy a 5L jug of 0w20 syn when it's on sale for $25-$30 and a filter for about $7. I keep the left over oil from the jug and every 3rd oil change is "free."
My car isn't under warranty(2005), the stuff I use meets Honda's specs and I change it every 8,000kms. Which is a little overkill but I prefer to not have problems.

With your car being under warranty you want to be very sure that if you do your own maintenance you document everything and keep your receipts. And make sure whatever you use meets Honda specs.

 
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yes, i will do that, i have ordered a car maintenance log book for doing so as well.

 
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What all does that service include for that price?
What is the price of the same service at your local GypsyLube places, and what all is included in that price?

Dealers can set whatever prices they want.
So can any other shop


My dealers 0w20 basic oil change is something like 39.95 beans and (is supposed to) include topping off fluids and checking tire pressures and the courtesy inspection.
Our local fast lube places are like 15-20 beans higher because they want a premium price for Mobil-1.....and want even more to top off fluids....and most never check your tires.


Depends. ®
Depends on how you shop.
Depends on how someone wants to price what they sell.
Depends on what the market will bear.
Depends on what sort of clientele the shop is targeting.

 
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my dealership includes the same thing as your dealership. I called and ask, but the lady wasn't able to tell me what topping fluids is about.
For topping fluids, what fluids are included?

All your depends makes since, but is there different in quality?

(i still can't figure out how to do multiple quote)

 
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For most cars it's gonna be washer fluid, coolant reservoir, power steering and trans fluid.....but a lot depends on the person doing the work. Some people will notice and take care of more than other people.


My dealer uses filters and fluids sourced through Hondas programs.
Some other dealers may not do the same, some might get their oil from other suppliers. Who knows if it meets specs for your engine?
You know the Jippy lubes and many other shops source the cheapest stuff (oil/filter/other fluids and filters) they can get, and you can't tell what actually got poured into your engine.
Oils are certainly not all the same, even amongst bottles with the same numbers.
Filters are not the same. Google it. You can find a million opinions.



The products may not be the same, okay....But are they sufficient to do the job? Will they last? Who do you trust?

By the way, Honda branded filters are made by Filtech and Honeywell.


<-- is the quote text button

 
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WELL SAID ezone Not to mention the turbo's propeller shaft still keeps spinning around at high revelutions after You have turned off the engine. Premium Synthetic Oil & synthetic Oil filter changes early are really a Must On Turbo Engines." if he wants to keep it going strong." this is what i Curently use in my Civic 20 Micron Fram XG 7317 Best Oil Filter from Fram's Line up mated with Pennzoil Ultra 5w20 Synthetic Oil hey Listen alot of Performance OEM engines are using Pennzoil Ultra and are filled from factory

using Pennzoil ultra already in the oils Crankcase for good reason its an Excellent choice for engine Protection im not puting honda oil or there Filter down by no means. its Just what i use and Beleive to be better than oem i will say though on a Turbo engine Oil & Filter changes need to be done earlyier than recommended by oem if Your planing on keeping it for the Long Haul Just adding my two cents worth opinion.

 
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OP: absolutely never, ever trust the count down timer, those things are crap.

Ever think why the timer still says %15 or -500km, or whatever even after you have changed the oil, and why it must be set by hand back to %100?

You could literally put olive oil in the engine and set it to %100 and it would say everything was fine, lol.


If you're going to test the 15,000miles oil, physically check the oil level religiously with your eyeballs, =D.

Also check to see if your warranty has a stipulation that the car can run that oil. Some contracts state "oil must be changed every 5,000 or 10,000, or must use OEM filters," or legal oil specs like, ford wss-m2c945-a, gm dexos 1, bwm LL-01, vw 502.00. Best case if you are a noob is to ask the dealer what they run.

From the source on legal warranty coverage that we use, All Data Pro, honda is only listing "API" coverage as needed. Basically all oils these days are API rated, it's a pretty lowball rating. Mobil 1 0w20 annual covers API, as well as spec.s that far supersede the api rating; so as long as there is no stipulation in your warranty, stating when to come back, you should be fine. But call them and ask.



............


As far as the turbos go, as long as the car returns at 10,000km or 10 months (whichever comes first) I know of no factory turbo charged vehicles that burn the oil before the 10,000km mark on regular mobil 1, using the right spec. (such as 502.00 on gas VWs, 507.00 on diesel VWs, 229.1 on mercedes, cj-4 on gm trucks, and so on) , all of which have turbos.

The problem is that most people don't actually know what rating they need and they'll run a vw 502.00 synthetic in a diesel vw that needs 507.00... then it burns and they think it's bad oil, or that the vehicle runs hot.



The cars that burn brand new are

-Hemis
-2010-2017 subarus (both turbo and base; it's not turbo specific)

 
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mack25 "thats what i been saying all along about are Hondas Oil Life Monitoring countdown" i could go about 15,000kms before the
oil life monitor goes to 0% oil life on the counter screen Not that i have ever tried leting it go that Long but at 6,000 Canadian Killometres
its still reads that i have 60% Oil Life left.?

that means i could almost fit 3 oil changes at - 6,000km apart before the Oil monitor is reset.? the other issue is if Your using a
regular 8-10 Micron Oil Filter it wont go the distance before it tears up inside 8,000 kms or converted over to

miles is 5,000 miles that oil filter is done.! unless You use a synthetic oil Filter that can safely go the distance like a 20 Micron
Fram Ultra XG i wouldnt let it go that long Just because the - Honda Oil Life monitor - says so...

 
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hey all while were on the subject of oil and filters i use synthetic oil in my R18 civic engine last oil change i used a fram ultra but i been reading mixed reviews on this particular filter would a mobile1 extended filter be perhaps better suited when using synthetic oil ?

 
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Mobil 1 filters are fram filters, lol.

https://mobiloil.com/en/article/warr...ilter-warranty

"...Mobil 1™ Extended Performance oil filter products manufactured or sold by Champion Laboratories, Inc."

https://www.framheavyduty.com/news/f...ram-filtration

"...Fram... has combined its filtration business with the Champion Laboratories..."


Basically most U.S. produced filters are manufactured by a massive syndicate made of older small companies that are now under one branch of a huge auto motive parts company, that I forgot the name of. Almost all of the filters are made in the same factories, with the same materials (per grade, like the basic ones are the same and the extended ones are the same); they just brand them differently.

 
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Who makes Honda synthetic oil and filter?

 
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Dont Beleive everything You hear bad about Fram Filters i can understand if Your buying a cheap One but the Fram Ultra XG has no wories to worry about using in fact i use to have at Least half a dozen independent Lab test results on the Fram Ultra XG well that is until my PC got a virus and all Data was Lost. But i can reasure You the Fram Ultra is a awsome Oil Filter to use. You read articles like this tech1 guy that doesnt no what hes talking about if You scroll down past the guy holding the

coffee mug you will see "motorking77 he is a technicall director at a fitration company." See what he has to say
about Fram Ultra You may find it interesting to say the least. also it made the top 5 best oil filters in 2017
acording to twelfthroundauto LOL.


https://forum.level1techs.com/t/the-...ncluded/102937



https://www.twelfthroundauto.com/best-oil-filters/

 
Rep Power: 517

Honda labeled oil filters are stamped with either FILTECH or HONEYWELL.
Anyone want to research and see which companies are owned by Honeywell?

FYI This person is an esteemed member of a professional forum I participate in, he speaks truth. I posted a couple of his videos in another long oil thread a long time ago


Verbatim

motorking77
Jan 1

First off, I work as the technical director at a filtration company. Now I will go through and explain why your post is well, simply not factual.
Synthetic oil filters do contain synthetic glass microfibers. You idea of what they filter is all wrong. FIlters are rated in two ways Nominal- meaning at what particle size they are 50% efficient. In this case the WIX is 13 micron nominal and the FRAM filter is 5 micron nominal. meaning the WIX filter will remove 50% of all particles 13 microns and larger. Winner FRAM
The second rating is absolute, meaning at what particle size does the filter remove 98.7% of all particles. For the WIX filter the number is 35, FRAM its 99% at 20 microns, again winner FRAM
The FRAM filter is rated to 20k oil changes, says that right on the box. WIX gives no change interval at all.
NON-Synthetic oil filters, your first statement says they are all cellulose. Dude that bus left the station 30 yrs ago. All major brands of oil filters with the exception of 1$ filters made offshore are blends of cellulose and synthetic fibers, this has been true since the early 1980’s. Many of them have very good efficiency and the capacity to go up to 15k miles.
Retail price- WIX is 12.99, FRAM 8.99 winner FRAM
The WIX filter can is not aluminum, no oil filter sold in the usa has an aluminum can, so are we to take oil filter advice from a level1 tech who doesnt even know the difference?
Why on earth would you use a dremel to cut open a filter? The main reason to cut one open is to see the contaminates in the filter and filling it with metal shavings hardly gets that done. Filter cutters are 25$ online
The “support” you claim is there to support the WIX abbv is actually just a spacer taking up space. Does nothing to “support” the adbv
WIX uses a single course layer of media wrapped around a wire backing. FRAM uses a two layer coarse and fine media more than twice as thick, also wrapped around a wire backing, something FRAM invented 18 yrs ago. . Winner FRAM
Let’s talk about that leaf spring you harp on. NO OE filter uses a coil! WHy? The coil put pressure on the dome end of the filter which is the weakest part of the can, the leaf spring puts that pressure around the circumference of the can, the strongest part. Again, Coils are not used in OE spin on filters. Yes filters are important and if you really wanted to do a side by side comparison, why didnt you spend 20$ to have the oil tested by blackstone or polaris labs after each run? Clearly you set out to slam FRAM because if you would have had the oil tested, it would clearly show how far superior the FRAM filter is in cleaning the oil. Enjoy your day and maybe stick to posting on things you know about.