03logic

I got my HP Race Header in the other day and was installing (or attempting to anyway) yesterday. I got the high flow cat on fine and was figuring out how the header was going to go in. I tried going in from the top and I've tried going in from the bottom, is the only way to get this in to remove the front bumper and radiator? It seems like if I took out the A/C I might be able to angle it in, but not really a definate.

VicDawg

iTrader: (2)

I also got an HP header/cat that I am going to try and install this weekend. There is a very good DIY on it. Step by step with pics. Do a search and you will find it. Good luck with your install.

Here it is. Found it while looking for a wiring diagram for the O2 sim that came with it (still looking for that...) http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...hp+race+header

italy273

iTrader: (1)

Here is a DIY that should help on the install.

DaRk_MauL

iTrader: (7)

here ya go.

Remove front engine mount.You also need to remove a little head shield that
stitting again the alternator.



If these are remove you can already push the header through.
you can see in the first pic the header.probably it could be that
the header will hit your subframe and the car will vibrate alot.
I had to shave of some metal.


mount back in bolts all back on and it should look like thise




mine few days later

VicDawg

iTrader: (2)

I got the O2 sim wiring diagram from HP. Here it is in case anyone needs it.

Di550_0610161244.pdf

djmota

iTrader: (34)

just a foot note. if you are using motor mount inserts you may not have to grind on the subframe.

DaRk_MauL

iTrader: (7)

yeah you can try that but got inserts and wen the header get hot it expands
and will somtimes hit the frame whyll bracking and shifting down.

I can tell ya for an Ex you dont need to hook up the o2 module,
wen the heade install is done just go for a spin you will have a check engine
light, just drive around till you engine has a normal temp, go back and reset
the ecu, maybe you need to do this twice.I am running it without module
with no problems for almost 3 years.

ohsnapsjay08

iTrader: (11)

wow, you guys have to remove the engine mount?? hmm thats odd cause i didnt have too. its as simple as bolting it out and put a new one in. well i did have a hard time without the torque wrench and end up buying one. totally happy that i did cause it does everything with tight bolts. and make sure to spray some PB blast to get the bolt out easiely. found this out in a hard way.

03logic

cool beans, I'm going to go pull my engine mount and give it a shot, i'll post here of my results.

*edit* btw, in the DIY it shows cutting the engine mount, how do you re-attach it? weld it back on? or do you run without the front engine mount? I got out there and started to take it off but got a little apprehensive when it came to removing it.
*edit again* nm i'm retarded... i see how they cut the engine mount.. disregard the last edit. i'll give it another go tomorrow.

djmota

iTrader: (34)

don't cut the mount. just remove it, install the header and put it back on.

jester444

Messing around with mounts doesn't strike me as too incredibly smart.

DaddyFatSacks

It's easy! Messing with mounts, thats like every swap.

DaRk_MauL

iTrader: (7)

Lol for those who want to cut thier mounts just do you will easier get a
broken mount so just remove it...

03logic

finally got the thing in! sounds pretty nice with the stock muffler.

*edit* for those who will do this in the future, it helps to move the A/C compressor over, unbolt it then slide it over out of the way.

jester444

Yeah, I know. I meant more along the lines of cutting and grinding. I come from an aviation background, so there's a little different mentality.

kuNhoHan

iTrader: (1)

i kno im reviving this thread but yea i have the hp header and hi flow cat .. i have no problems witht the o2 snesors cause id did that diy o2 simulator (works great) but the header is touching my frame, i replace all my motor mounts with new ones( they were cracked) and put a 1/4 inch washer between the mount and the engine to push it back ... it still hits my frame and is annoying as hell ... plus iono if that will will damage the header or not ... do i really have to end up cutting into my subframe for this

VicDawg

iTrader: (2)

I think so. I finally got my hp header on also. Its a beastly header and I had to do a fair amount of grinding on that crossmember to keep it from bumping.

Boggie1688

Will you pass the smog test with this header and cat combo?

02BLKCIVIC

iTrader: (8)

not in cali^

VicDawg

iTrader: (2)

Its not a real cat which is why it comes with an O2 sim.

Dezod sells a high flow cat that would probably work for you. http://www.dezod.com/pd_random_technology_hiflow.cfm

Boggie1688

So you think the HP ceramic header with dezod's highflow cat will pass smog?

Thanks for helping me guys I appreciate this.

Just to give you a little backround. I caynon run a lot, and this civic is a pretty damn well balanced car with a few quick adjustments. The problem lately is that I can't reach the right speed in the corner because the car doesn't have enough power for me to pull out of errors. Now that might sound stupid but its true, when you understeer you get on the gas and point. In this car you try to do that...you wheel hop(at least I do), then your engine bogs. I need more power so i can just spin my wheels! And the second reason, is because I can't power out of the above I feel like I missing something that can make me go faster...

VicDawg

iTrader: (2)

I think you will need a shorty header like this http://www.dezod.com/pd_hedman.cfm to work with the random tech cat. I do not know if HP makes a shorty for our cars. I can say from experience, dont bother with a DC Sports shorty.

se7engen_riDe

search around on how to install the hp race header. you have to shave some part of the car but i forgot which part it was.