headers..
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headers..
Which way is the best way to go...? 4-2-1 or 4-1? and if any of you can point me towards the direction of cheap, but quality STAINLESS STEEL headers.. preferably 4-2-1's... plz put up link.. thanks.
nearly impossible to find "cheap, quality, stainless steel" headers. your best bet would be to buy a used one.
i would personally go with 4-2-1 as it helps give power thruout the entire powerband where as the 4-1 is more of mid-high end power. but if you havent figured out yet, the d17 motor doesnt give much "power" off a header. of course, unless you go with the race header route as that removes your cat converter to 'enhance' performance.
but for a cheap stainless steel header... i would go look on ebay. i cant say quality because the quality brands of headers on the market today for the d17 motor are: hp/kamakazi/dc/megan racing?
i would personally go with 4-2-1 as it helps give power thruout the entire powerband where as the 4-1 is more of mid-high end power. but if you havent figured out yet, the d17 motor doesnt give much "power" off a header. of course, unless you go with the race header route as that removes your cat converter to 'enhance' performance.
but for a cheap stainless steel header... i would go look on ebay. i cant say quality because the quality brands of headers on the market today for the d17 motor are: hp/kamakazi/dc/megan racing?
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Stainless steel and cheap is an oxymoron. Stainless Steel by its nature is an expensive material and making headers involve lots of manual labor. Well, you could pretty much draw your own conclusion from this. $$$$$$$$$$
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i have kamikaze ceramic header and its much better than SS. I can put my hand 2 inches from the header when the car is on and not get burnt. Has very good insulation which means more power. A good 4-1 header will increase midrange as well.
From www.bigjoshracing.com
From www.bigjoshracing.com
Over the past 15 years Kamikaze's Research & Development department has been dedicated to revolutionizing the racing industry. Prior to Kamikaze's 4 into 1, 1 3/4” two piece header, there were only two options in the market. A 4 into 1 full length header and a tri-y, 4-2-1. The mistake of the 4 into 1 full length header is that the primary tubes are 1 1/2” 16 gauge diameter in size and the over all length is approximately 30”. With this design you have less torque, mediocre on mid range and weak on top end. Due to the diameter of the primary tubes are too small and too long in overall length. Further, installation is extremely difficult and you need to relocate the 02 sensors.
A Tri-y 4-2-1 header did help in the early 80’s but when cars began to have more horsepower and torque. The Tri-y configuration were found useless and out dated for today's compact cars. A Tri-y header was never designed to be a performance header. It was originally designed for a truck. That needed the torque for towing. Which also fails miserably at top end. You never see a tri-y header on a dragster or any professional racing vehicle.
A Tri-y 4-2-1 header did help in the early 80’s but when cars began to have more horsepower and torque. The Tri-y configuration were found useless and out dated for today's compact cars. A Tri-y header was never designed to be a performance header. It was originally designed for a truck. That needed the torque for towing. Which also fails miserably at top end. You never see a tri-y header on a dragster or any professional racing vehicle.
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