Automatic Shift Kit
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i might dip into my turbo fund to get this torque converter first, will save money in the long run with that larger MPG. 450 is near TWICE what i get now!
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I'm still looking for information on shift kits for our cars, and who iz making the new stuff for our AT's....i'll be back soon with some detailed information!
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A shift kit for the most part is installed to firm up shifts, to get rid of that mushy shift feeling. The more advanced kits usually requires some modification to the trannys valve body where you might have to drill out holes and such and install different check ***** and springs.
Originally posted by PaCiFiKbAllA
Ahh..."YS" got the good **** in his car...yeah I cant wait to get a JMO Torque Converter...you see? we can make an AT quicker...just cost a bit more!
Ahh..."YS" got the good **** in his car...yeah I cant wait to get a JMO Torque Converter...you see? we can make an AT quicker...just cost a bit more!
Shift kits and TC's do incredible things for auto tranny cars. A TC alone can give auto trannied approx. .5 off of a 1/4 mile time. Shift kits take it even a step furth by making the car shift like a mad man. The higher the stall speed on the TC the quicker out of the hole the car will be. And with the shift kit, increasing the line pressure will slam gears. It would basically feel like shifting a manual tranny as fast as you can.
I had some friends that had Cav's (2.4 Z's autos) with some bolt on work done, and one of the mods they did was get an Autotrans Interceptor. Unfortunately, they dont make them for Jap cars. Anyway, its a device that you hook up between your engine and tranny, and you can manually increase the line pressure to make the car shift harder (without tripping codes). Let me tell you what, those cavs would EASILY chirp tires in second gear, and sometime 3rd. It hits that hard. Now sometimes you can go overboard with how hard the car shifts. You dont want the car shifting like crazy for every day driving. It'll break your neck.
B&M makes something called a "ShiftPlus" that does about the same thing as the Autotrans Interceptor. Its way cheaper plus you can change settings inside the car. The only problem is, is that some people say that the B&M doesnt make much of a difference.
Ive got the same 1.7L turd motor that you guys have, and an auto tranny. Ive got I/H/E. Im gonna end up getting a TC with about a 3,000 or 3,500rpm stall, and a mild shift kit that would withstand some abuse.
Lata,
Brad
I had some friends that had Cav's (2.4 Z's autos) with some bolt on work done, and one of the mods they did was get an Autotrans Interceptor. Unfortunately, they dont make them for Jap cars. Anyway, its a device that you hook up between your engine and tranny, and you can manually increase the line pressure to make the car shift harder (without tripping codes). Let me tell you what, those cavs would EASILY chirp tires in second gear, and sometime 3rd. It hits that hard. Now sometimes you can go overboard with how hard the car shifts. You dont want the car shifting like crazy for every day driving. It'll break your neck.
B&M makes something called a "ShiftPlus" that does about the same thing as the Autotrans Interceptor. Its way cheaper plus you can change settings inside the car. The only problem is, is that some people say that the B&M doesnt make much of a difference.
Ive got the same 1.7L turd motor that you guys have, and an auto tranny. Ive got I/H/E. Im gonna end up getting a TC with about a 3,000 or 3,500rpm stall, and a mild shift kit that would withstand some abuse.
Lata,
Brad
Allrighty, here's a relatively in-depth description of what a shift kit does.
In your auto tranny, you have a few clutches and maybe a band or two. Auto trannies work by stopping one spinning part of the tranny to divert torque through other gearsets. You've got a lot of fluid flying around in there as well. There are little springs/plungers which move up and down as line pressure to them increases (higher tranny speed in gear, higher pressure) When these plungers get to a certain point, they open a valve which fills a clutch or tightens a band to perform the shift. If you up the pressure of the fluid by boring the orfaces or messing with the spring tension on the plungers, you get a harder/faster shift.
But watch out!!!!
I did what's called a "J-mod" on a buddy's 1997 Lincolin MK8. It involves boring out two holes in the trannies valve body and replacing a couple of shift-control-plunger springs with weaker ones. The original spec for the J-mod raises line pressure by 15psi. He wanted me to go nuts with it so it would shift even harder. I did some math post-boring and worked out that the amount of boring I did on the orfaces upped his line pressure by 25psi. His car now shifts so hard it either bangs your head off the headrest or breaks the back tires loose. It was fun for about 2 days... This weekend, I'm installing a slightly underbored (relative to j-mod) valve body for him, slightly stronger springs, a new rear axle/cv joint and a new differential. The moral of the the story is there can be too much of a good thing and you can always do more mod work.
In your auto tranny, you have a few clutches and maybe a band or two. Auto trannies work by stopping one spinning part of the tranny to divert torque through other gearsets. You've got a lot of fluid flying around in there as well. There are little springs/plungers which move up and down as line pressure to them increases (higher tranny speed in gear, higher pressure) When these plungers get to a certain point, they open a valve which fills a clutch or tightens a band to perform the shift. If you up the pressure of the fluid by boring the orfaces or messing with the spring tension on the plungers, you get a harder/faster shift.
But watch out!!!!
I did what's called a "J-mod" on a buddy's 1997 Lincolin MK8. It involves boring out two holes in the trannies valve body and replacing a couple of shift-control-plunger springs with weaker ones. The original spec for the J-mod raises line pressure by 15psi. He wanted me to go nuts with it so it would shift even harder. I did some math post-boring and worked out that the amount of boring I did on the orfaces upped his line pressure by 25psi. His car now shifts so hard it either bangs your head off the headrest or breaks the back tires loose. It was fun for about 2 days... This weekend, I'm installing a slightly underbored (relative to j-mod) valve body for him, slightly stronger springs, a new rear axle/cv joint and a new differential. The moral of the the story is there can be too much of a good thing and you can always do more mod work.
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