HommeDeBois

I just got a p28 ecu for my civic (finally). Just starting up, the idle bounces, but after a short drive it calms down. However, the big concern is the CEL that comes on right away after startup.
I checked the code, and it's throwing a code 2 (blink-pause-blink-pauuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuse-blink-pause-blink-pauuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuse...)I know a bunch of the CEL guides say there is no such thing, but some of them say that it's a code for a secondary bank O2 sensor. As far as I know, my car only has 1 o2 sensor.
Is there any way to disable this, or make the ECU think that it should only have 1 o2 sensor, or that the hypothetical 2nd o2 sensor is ok?
Thanks!
It's a 95 DX with a mini-me (Z6 Head on a B7 block).

HommeDeBois

If it's relevant, with my P06 ecu, there aren't any CEL codes. Also, my purge control solenoid valve is missing- either I can't find it, or it's not there, either way the vacuum line and electrical connector are just hanging, would that have anything to do with it?

HommeDeBois

Ok, so after watching some videos of what a long and short flash look like, It's not a code 2, it's a code 20. Looking at the flowchart, is this a bad ecu? Is there something that my car and the ecu aren't 'agreeing' on?

lazlong

Code 20 is the ELD (Electrical Load Detector). It should be in the under-hood fuse box.

HommeDeBois

After spending hours looking at ELD stuff, I went out to confirm the code, and it was actually a 21 and 22 (vtec solenoid and pressure valve), the short blinks were so short that I didn't notice them at first. So now I'm looking at whether these items are in the correct spots and wired correctly. http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...hcd3ejV_C-7xe8

The jerk that swapped my engine really did a number- told me everything was wired up just right and ready to go... yeah right...

lazlong

^^ VTEC and oil pressure sensor. They look to be in the right place and connected correctly. Stupid question but, do you have enough oil?

HommeDeBois

Sorry, busy sunday (day of rest my butt...).
Yes it has plenty of oil (top dot on the dipstick). I'm going to go clean up the vtec components (along with my fitv and iacv) today and see if that helps, if not, it's off to the shop manual flow chart.
I'll report back.

HommeDeBois

Ok, so I took off the Vtec bits, cleaned off the connectors, disassembled the vtec valves from each-other, cleaned them up (did the same thing to the fitv and iacv and tried to get the air bubbles out of the coolant lines for good measure). I also reset the ecu (pulled the backup fuse while I was doing the work).
The good news: the idle is a little more steady. It doesn't do the big oscillations that it used to (unless I mess with anything on the tb, like the idle adjustment screw).
The bad news: I'm still getting the CEL with codes 21+22. I'm going to have to hit the books and follow the flowchart in the service manual. If anyone knows any little tips or tricks, it would be MUCH appreciated.
In any case I'm waiting for a much cooler day. Freakin' hot n' humid out there.

lazlong

^^ I feel ya. It's been 100+ for 8 straight days.

Pages 6-17 to 6-23. Start by reading page 6-23. Also look for bad wires, connectors, or grounds.

HommeDeBois

Yep, that's what I'm going for (as soon as it's not so hot that 5 minutes on my blacktop driveway makes me drenched in sweat- my glasses don't stay on my face very well when that happens).
Have you heard of this?:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=437931

This may be my next step if I can't come to a good conclusion from the service manual or bad wire hunt.

lazlong

lol. Mine do that too. I had to get some ear pieces that hooked around my ears so I can see at work.

Never seen that trick but, looks like it ought to work.

HommeDeBois

So I think I found the problem! I was looking at the harness at the ECU- I do not have a wire coming out of A4 or D6! The engine compartment harness is wired for vtec, but the ecu side is not! I guess I hadn't been hitting vtec- it was just wishful thinking on my brain's part...
Now the question: do I try and tackle it myself, or pay someone to do it for me?

lazlong

Well, if you can dis-connect the connectors, de-pin them, re-pin new wires correctly, run new wires and re-pin at that end correctly (all in the blazing heat), then go for it.

Re-pinning requires knowing how to correctly crimp the ends as well as new pins (I have no idea on that, sorry) and the correct crimpers:

for the pins http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...rodsPerPage=60
for the wire http://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-...ter-98410.html

Running new wire requires zip-ties and/or electrical tape, and a spot through the firewall if you can't run the new wires with the harness. If you can run with the harness just zip-tie the new wires to the harness. Don't be stingy with the zip-ties, you want everything moving as little as possible. If you can't, find a hole, ram it through the grommet/gasket, then zip-tie the new wires to as many things as possible. Now, you can use tape but, it comes undone in the heat pretty easily. If I use tape, I usually zip-tie it so it doesn't come undone.

Also, an easy way to make it look factory is to use wire loom: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qua...rap-66985.html tape it, then zip-tie it.

Otherwise your looking at 1-2 hours labor.

HommeDeBois

Thanks man. This is going to have to be something that waits a little bit, unfortunately. Hopefully the junkyard is kind to me...

HommeDeBois

Ok, so i wired up my ecu to vtec stuff! YAY! CEL codes 21 and 22 gone! Haven't taken it out for a spin, but I'm happy about that. Hooray for junkyard day!
The idle issue, however, is still bugging me. I cleaned the IACV, FITV, sprayed looking for vacuum leaks, etc... when the idle did calm down I knocked on the IACV with my screwdriver and it made the idle act up again. I unplugged it (for now) and that instantly calmed the idle down, but it's sitting at ~1300 rpm. Way too high, right? I put in my paperclip and tried to adjust the idle screw, but it was screwed all the way in, and any adjustment made the idle jump up.
What is the reading across the iacv electrical terminals that I should be getting?
Can I run my car with the iacv unplugged for now?

lazlong

- Don't know, sorry.
- Yes, you can run without it but, you will have nothing to keep the idle steady when at operating temp AND fuel mileage will be crap.

HommeDeBois

Started a new thread since this is no longer an ecu issue (I hope).

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...-95-civic.html