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I have a 1991 honda civic dx that cranks but won't start even after trying starting fluid on it, hooking up booster battery to it and getting well over 13 volts, and checking all fuses that turn out good. However, when I placed hand on main relay when turning key over and attempting to start it, I didn't feel any clicks like I believe that you're supposed to when starting it. So I took it out and decided to test with another battery and a multimeter following these instructions:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...-pics-2535047/

I heard clicking sounds after hooking up mini booster cables from another car battery to terminals 4 and 8 of main relay. I then tested resitance with a multimeter to terminals 5 and 7 and got a reading of 0.

I heard NO clicking sounds after hooking up booster cables to terminals 5 and 2 of main relay. I then tested resitance with a multimeter to terminals 1 and 3 and got a reading of 0.

Just like the first test, I heard clicking sounds after hooking up booster cables from another car battery to terminals 4 and 8. I then tested resitance with a multimeter to terminals 5 and 7 and got a reading of 0 just like the first test.

What does it mean when there are no clicking sounds as soon as I hook up mini booster cables to terminals 5 and 2 of main relay? As i understand, main relays often could be fixed by desoldering and then soldering again. According to pictures below (let me know if you need me to take better pictures), which contact points of main relay curcuit board should I desolder and then solder again?

Let me know if you need anymore info. All answers, tips, help, and advice would be much appreciated.


Main relay terminals

Main relay circuit board #1

Main relay circuit board #2

Main relay circuit board #3

Main relay circuit board #4

 
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Update: I desided to add some solder every joint with the (for lack of better of better terms) probe exposed.

I tested continuity on all three tests and it passed every one.

I then inserted main relay back into 1991 honda civic dx. It started the car, but now the shift lever won't work and seatbelt socket won't move at all. (In the 1991 honda civic dx, there's a shoulder seatbelt socket that will move back and forth based on whether the door is open or not.) Is it because I burned out one of the probes when adding solder? Was I too rough with the circuit board? Could it be because the car has been sitting for a few months?

All help, tips, and answers would be much appreciated.

 
Rep Power: 222

Those should be unrelated to the main relay. But I'm not familiar with the 4th gens. Do you have a wiring diagram for that main relay? I thought it was only for fuel/spark

 
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I wish I had a wiring diagram. Fortunately for the gear thing, as long as I have an extra key, I’m able to get it out of park, and it doesn’t get stuck in any other gear.

Regarding the seatbelt thing, what could be causing it not to slide back and forth at all?

I forgot to mention in update that the headlights, high beam lights, brake lights, radio, dashboard lights, and indoor car roof lights all work. However, When I put key in the ignition before starting, I see battery light on dashboard. What would that mean?

Before starting for first time in around 3 months, The battery said 9.75 V. my most recent multimeter said 12.0 volts after jump starting the car, turning it off, turning it on and off again two more times, Driving on freeway for a total of 8 miles or so, stopping for gas, and then driving 1 more mile or so to head home.

 
Rep Power: 222

Battery light before starting should be normal because the engine isn't running so the alternator isn't charging.
Transmission range sensor, or park solenoid might be why the key doesn't come out.
Auto seat belt might be the wiring in the door, or a door sensor, or the motor my have quit