'89 Civic DX Idle RPM
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'89 Civic DX Idle RPM
I just bought an '89 Civic DX Hatchback automatic and I've noticed this problem driving it before I bought it. The previous owner of the car, my cousin, sold me the car for next to nothing, so I'm not heavily invested in the car.
When I start the car, it starts up okay and turns over and has a idling RPM of about 1,000. When I would be in the car with her, she would use her foot to pull up on the accelerator and the idling RPM would drop to about 400-500 and the car is very quietly idling and the 'check engine' light would turn on. The pedal doesn't get stuck ever when driving, it just lowers the RPM when you pull up on it. Now, when I put it in drive and step on the accelerator, the RPM dips down to about 100 and then kicks up to about 1500 starts going like it should, but once in awhile, I'll press the pedal down and the RPM will drop down to zero and engine will stop and I have to restart the car. Another problem with this issue is if you don't pull the pedal up to reduce the idling RPM and try driving, the car is usually really, for lack of a better term, "sputtery" or "jerky". The car operates better if the "check engine" light is on.
Any idea why I need to reduce the RPM to make the idling RPM move into the normal range (from 500-750 from what I know) and what is causing this? Also, any idea why the engine will sometimes die when I press on the gas and the RPM crashes to zero?
When I start the car, it starts up okay and turns over and has a idling RPM of about 1,000. When I would be in the car with her, she would use her foot to pull up on the accelerator and the idling RPM would drop to about 400-500 and the car is very quietly idling and the 'check engine' light would turn on. The pedal doesn't get stuck ever when driving, it just lowers the RPM when you pull up on it. Now, when I put it in drive and step on the accelerator, the RPM dips down to about 100 and then kicks up to about 1500 starts going like it should, but once in awhile, I'll press the pedal down and the RPM will drop down to zero and engine will stop and I have to restart the car. Another problem with this issue is if you don't pull the pedal up to reduce the idling RPM and try driving, the car is usually really, for lack of a better term, "sputtery" or "jerky". The car operates better if the "check engine" light is on.
Any idea why I need to reduce the RPM to make the idling RPM move into the normal range (from 500-750 from what I know) and what is causing this? Also, any idea why the engine will sometimes die when I press on the gas and the RPM crashes to zero?
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