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I have a challenge getting the distributor (TEC style) working. There is no voltage to the ignition coil and the next suspect is the ignitor unit. If this the case, then I'll need a new distributor as the cost of the ignitor is too expensive. However I need a more comprehensive electrical diagram of the 89 Civic DX to make a proper diagnosis. Can anyone recommend a better reference than the Hayne's manual?

 
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If you are missing battery voltage to the coil, then chase that first. The igniter has nothing to do with that, other than it also gets one terminal powered by the same source as the coil.

Coil gets its power from the ignition switch circuits, not the igniter.

The job of the igniter is to control the ground side of the coil, the same way a set of points would have done in older cars.

You'll be sorry.

Try your local library. Many have a subscription to Alldata or Mitchell online service information.

If no joy there, check the Autozone site for info on getting AlldataDIY through them.

 
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After looking at the schematics I've got from the Hayne's Manual, I'll start with battery voltage, then check the ignition switch for continuity. Could the ECU have an effect on the distributor? The Hayne's Manual mention's checking continuity with regards to the ignitor unit.

Thanks, I'll will do more checks and tests to determine the source of the problem before replacing the distributor.

Where are the fuses from the battery to the ignition switch? My manual isn't very clear where they are.

 
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Forget continuity with an ohm meter. I check voltages on live circuits.
Battery 12v? Check. Leave the black test lead hooked to the neg post and check the rest of this stuff:
12v to the ign switch? Check.
Turn the switch on....12v out of the switch on the necessary wire? Check.

Use the wiring diagram, follow the path...

Following the one circuit only: See what else shares the same circuit of the ignition switch and distributor (I think it's the black/white wire?), check those for power.
What all HAS power, and what all is MISSING power?
What fuses might be involved?

Yes it has an effect because the ECU controls the igniter.
But none of it can work if the dist is missing its 12v+ power circuit. Chase this problem first.

Don't put a cheapo replacement in, you'll be sorry. There's a reason it's so cheap!
Fix the original if at all possible. Especially if the car is worth keeping.
I can't look this up at home. Hondas website does not have wiring diagrams for cars this old LOL. A real quick google this afternoon didn't turn up anything close that I could link.

How about your library?
Does your library allow people to have online access?
Maybe you can get Alldata through them to your house or something (IF they have it). I've heard other people say they can do this.

 
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I just went through a distributor saga of my own & eZone's advice was spot on.

DO NOT buy a cheapo "new" distrib from eBay.

Be wary of advanced-zone-boys-o'reilley-quest

My affordable solution was a $35 dist from a u-pull-it yard.

Just FYI, hope it doesn't come to that.

 
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Well, I checked, and have voltage to the ignition coil. No spark to to any spark plugs when starting, fuel pump works. There doesn't appear to be any shorts near the distributor. Engine turns over, but because there isn't spark to the points in the distributor it just spins.

What would be the next step to check?

 
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No spark from the coil, so next thing I would want to know is if the ICM (igniter) is trying to fire the coil.

Wait up: Does the computer have any codes stored that are related to the ignition? Chase these first.



So, no spark. I take about 2 minutes to check this before going any further: Is the ICM still doing its job?
I use a dwellmeter (digital), the same as we used to use to set dwell on points ignition. Connect to battery neg and coil neg terminals, set to 4 cylinder scale. Crank the engine. If there is ANY reading other than 90 or 0, then the ICM is working and the coil must be bad. Even if it is only 2 degrees showing, that ICM is still working.
If reading is 90 or 0, then the ICM is not working and further checking is needed: Is the CKP signal present from the dist? Is the ECU getting that signal? Is the signal coming back to the igniter?
(Or toss a dist in it and see what happens.)

 
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When I checked the computer for the code, after 1 flash when I turned the ignition to the run position there were no flashes until I turned the ignition off when there was 1 flash, which I think just shows power, unless there is a different meaning.

I have a friend that will lend me a dwell meter soon, then I can check the readings at that time.

Thanks again for the help, it's appreciated.

 
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I was digging around looking for more info, found this in a Service News dated July 97:

3. Connect a voltmeter between the coil negative terminal
and ground, and record the cranking voltage two ways:
first with the wire between the coil and ICM connected,
then with it disconnected.
• If you get about 8 V with the wire connected and
10 V with it disconnected, install a new coil, and
retest.
• If you get about 10 V with the wire connected and
disconnected, install a new ICM, and retest.


Maybe this test would be quicker than waiting on a dwell meter.

I am used to using the dwellmeter method because I have one handy at work.

 
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Thanks, that would be a quicker test for me to do

 
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Did the voltage test for the ignition coil. results were with wire connected 8-9 volts, disconnected less than 1 volt.

What is the normal readings for this test?

Had a wild hunch about the Crank Angle Sensor. Checked the resistance between terminals D and E and C and B (dual point injection) and the readings seemed to indicate a break somewhere in that circuit. Checked resistance on these terminals to ground and only B and D showed resistance. Could this be an avenue to consider?

 
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Normal? Can't tell you that because I use the dwellmeter method. The thing above was copy and paste, including the misleading typos.

I was trying to give you quick easy methods to prove or disprove a coil problem.


Do you have a service manual there? What does it say about testing the sensors?

Honestly, there is next to nothing as far as online info on cars this old in Hondas website. I'd have to dig out paper manuals at work or try to dig on Alldata, and I can't do that from Home.

 
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Igniter is easy to check and a common failure item.

On an 87 you disconnect the igniter leads and check with an ohm meter. You should have continuity in one direction but not the other. If you have continuity in both or neither direction the igniter is bad and your right, a used distributer is a cheaper and likely better solution than replacing the igniter with one of the $90.00 aftermarket questionable quality ones (and possible damaging the reluctor while you are at it).

I don't have an 88-91 manual handy, but it is probably similar, although the distributor is different.