hightechredneck

I have gotten a LOT of help so far answering questions from this forum, thanks for all of it!!
One I had that I was searching for but found several responses but none that really worked for this set up was about the Clutch adjustment.

My clutch is all the way at the floor. I want to raise it up just slightly so it is less of a pain for a daily driver.

Here is my adjustment as it sits...



It does not look like I have much to adjust but which way do I adjust it?
I think I read that of the clutch was going bad it would be further out to the driver not all the way at the floor, Was that correct?
It feels like it is loose in the pedal put It is hard to tell, I just want to bring it out a bit towards the driver so Im not always pushing it through the floor to disengage the clutch and switch gears.

Only other thing I will need to ask about is Replacing the seats. I have local Facebook sites that people swap and sell aprts, and have seen several sets of seats for sale, but they only say eg, ek, SI, Etc, and I have NO clue what they mean, and most of them are smart asses who think everyone should know everything about them from birth without ever learning...
So I would like to replace the seats. The one seat is torn but the biggest issue is that it is a bucket seat that my growing **** does not fit in the bucket...
I wanted to replace them with another seat, but was unsure if the bolt patterns were all the same, and if re drilling is needed, How much re enforcement should be put on the bottom of the undercarriage? I have several metal pieces laying around and could cut one or two to make a backing plate if needed.

I also need to figure out the thread and pitch of the seats Driver and passenger to get bolts for the existing seats until I get new ones.The 4 that mount them to the floor.

Thanks
Chris

ezone

Short answer: Adjust it one direction and try it. If it is worse, you went the wrong direction...back up and go the other way. Stop when it feels good.



This is true when you have a hydraulic clutch. It is self adjusting, you don't need to touch it until something is wrong.
Most cable setups will also make the pedal disengagement point become higher as the clutch wears also. But you must adjust the cable every so often.

Your cable has probably stretched.
Lift the cable housing (with one hand-- do not strain to lift it because you are only taking up the free play in the cable) so you can spin that little threaded wheel with the other hand.
Spin the wheel downward until it won't go any further without forcing it.
Back up to align the little pin with the slot, drop it in the hole.

Cable too tight will be the same as riding the pedal and will let the clutch slip.

Get in and see how it feels. The pedal should have an inch or so of free play at the top, and engagement should start at least an inch or two off the floor. Adjust more until it feels good.

If it feels worse, then spin it the other direction and try again.

Drive it. If it slips and you have free play in the cable/pedal, then it needs a clutch job.


Can't help with the seats.

Trippy_t_sticks

Need help ASAP I have 95 hatch with a d16y5 from a 98 hx with a ex tranny I do believe anywho the trans never gave me problems on the last swap I had I have a brand new complete clutch kit slave cylinder and everything's and it seems to be slipping daily after I drive about 10 minutes or so it'll shift fine then when it gets warmed up almost impossible to shift into first and second an difficult for third fourth an fifth need hello think the clutch needs adjusting or the trans is going I'm clueless and only have 300 miles on the new rebuild help please!!!

ezone

If the pedal action is nearly to the floor and the clutch is hydraulic, see if the fluid is just empty. And make sure nobody put oil of any sort in it. DOT3 brake fluid only.

If it ran real low on fluid, you may need to bleed the air out to get it to feel right again.

Trippy_t_sticks

Ebrak brake fluid is fine no oil ever put in there and bled it like 5 times since the swap only helps for a short period of time

ezone

Could have a bad master, bleeding past the seals internally.....Or slave, if the boot keeps filling with fluid.

iim1rmg

I have the same mechanical adjustment on an 87 civic.

Your adjustment is the **** you pictured, there is no fluid used like in a hydraulic system as your clutch operates with a cable.

Like Ezone said try a bit one way, then see which way it goes, but logically-

As you push the pedal, you pull the cable, so the more you pull the cable, the more you disengage the clutch. As yours is almost to the floor before it does anything, ezone is probably right - your cable may be stretched.

As I remember, it does not take a lot of turns on the **** to make a significant difference.

I would try tightening, turn the **** right, about two turns or three (keep track of where you started and how much you have turned it, then see what that does. It might help to put a white dot on the **** so you can tell how much you have turned it. White magic marker works or a welding marker pen if you happen to have one around.

It looks from your picture like you don't have much adjusting rod to go in this direction.

The last time I did this, the **** was not very easy to turn, it might help to hit the threaded rod with a squirt of liquid wrench, WD-40, LPS, or something of that ilk and let it set a while before you adjust.

[Mil-5606 aircraft brake fluid and acetone mixed 50/50 works best, but not everyone happens to have some sitting around :-) ]

Good luck