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My mechanic can't figure it out.

We've replaced plugs, rotor, dist. cap, fuel filter. Fuel pressure is good.

Here is what it does: Cold starts fine. Drive the car, engine is warm. Stop. Shut off motor. Then start car (like if you go fill up your car at a gas station, for example). Fires up fine, then dies. Won't start. Try for a couple of minutes, won't start. Then wait a minute or two & car starts fine. This pattern can be repeated.

Once the motor is up & running there is no stalling issue.

So what the heck is going on here?

Thanks for the help/advice.

Bill

 
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I had a similar problem many years ago when i used to own a 89 honda civic lx. My mechanic was able to fix this by replacing a part what i remember it to be called the electronic control valve or something similar to that effect. I believe this valve controlled fuel to enter into the system.I'm not a mechanic and this was many years ago but i hope this helps.

 
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Did you happen to find the problem? Mine just started this exact same problem.
I've got a 1993 Honda Civic EX. 176000 miles.
Pulled into gas station and went out, car started, sputtered and quit. After about 5 minutes of trying to start the car, it started as if nothing was wrong with it.
I'm about to pull out some hair.

 
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And I sympathize with you, the problem is bizarre & will drive you mad. It almost put me in a nut house.

Most likely the problem you describe is that the main relay is bad. Apparently these relays had poor quality solder that, when the passenger compartment heats up, the solder epands (which are too dry) and the connection is broken, hence the stall & no starting issue. The problem is described in greater detail here:

http://www.marklamond.co.uk/tech-hon...main-relay.htm

Rather than do the resoldering deal I bought a new relay at Pep Boys & had my mechanic put it in. The relay cost around 45 bucks. That cured the problem that you described.

However, my car also had a weird issue whereby it would start, stall, then start fine when the engine was cool but not ice cold. Like if I parked it for several hours & then started it. It turned out that the coolant sensor connection in the engine compartment had oil in it from an old oil leak that had been repaired. I had my mechanic replace the coolant sensor (20 bucks at AutoZone for the part) & clean up the connection & it is now fine.

So just to summarize, replacing the main relay should solve the problem that you describe. If the second problem surfaces, replace the ECT sensor (also called coolant sensor). The part is directly below the distributor toward the front of the engine compartment.

Good luck!

Bill

 
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Awesome, I'm gonna buy the relay tomorrow and will update as well. Thanks for the reply.

 
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4 weeks and so far so good. Has not quit. Looks like the main relay was the fix. Very very easy to replace. Thanks for the info.

 
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Glad to know it helped.

An update on my repair: no more stalling, but now, on a cold start (car sitting overnight) it takes longer to crank. Weird. The car gets on my nerves. Once it starts it has no issues at all. But if I park it at work, after 8 hours I go to start it & it takes several seconds longer before it fires up.

Maybe just an odd quirk to deal with, not sure at this point. Let me know if you run into anything similar (hope you don't!).

Bill