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Recently purchased a nearly mint AP2 steering wheel with the single stage airbag, which is what I need for my ‘98. I’m pretty stoked to get this installed, but I do want to retain the factory cruise control.
I read this old thread, expecting to be able to swap the circuit board out, to keep my factory cruise control:
however, my (Civic) circuit board is a different shape than the one he used in the writeup (mine is square), and I can’t seem to find any model with the same shape as the S2000 circuit board. Here they are for comparison:
the only option I can figure that may work, is to trim the board to fit in the S2k housing, but I’m not sure this won’t ruin the board. Has anyone done this swap, and retained the factory cruise control functionality? Is there a different circuit board in a different model I can use to swap it? Any suggestions are much appreciated!
Last edited by xRiCeBoYx; May 13, 2025 at 01:55 PM.
Re: AP2 (2005, single stage) to 98 Civic cruise control modifications
Looks like the wiring is 3-wire on both the Civic and S2K, with a 4 pin connector on each. So I guess the best option is to either de pin them, and swap over, or just cut / solder / heat shrink them to the corresponding wires. Now I just need to figure out which wires do what. 👍
Re: AP2 (2005, single stage) to 98 Civic cruise control modifications
Originally Posted by Colin42
If there's no components or traces in the square board where you need to trim you're fine
Thanks for the response. I decided to just swap the connector from the civic cc board onto the S2K board. Will be testing functionality later today, and will update my results.
Re: AP2 (2005, single stage) to 98 Civic cruise control modifications
Originally Posted by xRiCeBoYx;[url=tel:4819429
4819429]If you want to detail it all out, we can add it to the DIY forum. Great job!
sure;
How to use your factory EK / EJ cruise control with S2000 AP2 wheel. (This likely applies to the AP1 as well, but I haven’t opened one up to verify)
Obviously, you’ll need to have the Airbag removed, in order to access the wiring in the wheel. I’m not going to detail that here. This is specifically to use your factory cruise control with the S2K wheel.
Remove the steering wheel cruise control panel from both wheels. This requires the removal of 2 Phillips head screws.
Once removed, you will see the printed circuit boards. The EK board is square shaped, while the S2K board is wide on top, narrowed to a small width at bottom, where the connector is soldered:
We need to replace the S2K board connector, with the EK connector, so your factory plug will attach:
Remove both PCB’s from their housings. Civic board has 3 small phillips screws, and the S2K has 2.
Both of these connectors have 4 pins, but only 3 are wired, and used. I’ve marked the unused pin of the EK board here:
The S2K unused connector is actually on the opposite side; (board is flipped over in this picture)
You can see the trace on the PCB doesn’t go anywhere:
Heat up your soldering gun / iron.
Before you can remove the soldered pins, there are 2 plastic standoffs, which are melted into the board on each connector. I just used my soldering gun to melt the middle of each of these, to release the plastic. (Don’t breathe in those fumes..)
You’ll need to heat the 4 pins of each connector simultaneously, while pressing against the connector gently, to pull the pins out of the board while being heated. Careful you don’t burn yourself..
Once removed, you can trim (or melt, like I did) the plastic standoffs of the Civic connector, so it can sit flat against the PCB.
You will probably have a bit of solder slag bridging the 4 connections on the board, so you’ll need to clean that up. Just use the tip to melt them, and wipe away any residual solder. (Don’t get it too hot. You don’t need to, and you can damage the board)
Once cleaned up, you can insert the 4 pins of the EK connector into the S2K board. Then, apply heat with solder gun to each joint, while melting your solder into the joint, and you’re done with that part.
Using the 2 screws you’ve removed from the S2K PCB, reattach it to the housing.
Back at the car, you can now fish your cruise control connector, to the factory location of the S2K one, make your connection to your Civic connector on the S2K board, and tighten up the mounting screws. (Apologies, I didn’t take a picture of this)
Get out on the road, and (safely) test your Cruise Control functionality. All buttons should work as if from the factory, including the middle cancel button.
Kick back, and enjoy a cold snack with a smile on your face, for accomplishing a factory look S2K wheel in your EK, with functional cruise..