question about hondata
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question about hondata
I have done a lot of research on mods to my civic. My question is i know when it comes to a turbo build hondata s300 in an obd1 ecu is the way to go. Is there any advantages to going to a obd1 ecu with hondata from a p2p obd2 ecu in the car now? I most likely not put turbos on it for awhile if ever. The engine is a stock d16y8 right now at the current time I don't even plan a b series swap into it. I know i can change the rpm in which vtec kicks in and other settings with the hondata system. I do know i will have to get a p28 or other compatible obd1 ecu and the conversion harness to plug it into my car. One last thing before this is bought up if i go turbo at some point i will build the engine to be able to with stand the boost I run to it and i will not buy an ebay turbo kit. it will be a brand name kit from a good company.
Dr Krieger of Modification
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Re: question about hondata
The newer the technology the better your result. So if you can at least buy a good piggyback ecu, if not a stand alone.
If you can get away with an s300, then it is the cheapest route.
But if your talking about converting a 2001+ civic to OBD1, that is a poor decision. You'll end up spending far too much for a second rate tune.
....
Tunes change fuel ratios, and ignition timing. That's it.
Stock, you won't see much more power. "Lean is mean" basically N/A, a lean air fuel ratio like what you have will make more power and run safe.
14.7:1 is about perfect for N/A gas engines, which is about where the factory leaves the ratio, sometimes even leaner at idle 15.5:1.
If your engine has vtec, they do run a bit rich. So you could try to lower the ratio. But its rich to prevent detonation. If you mess with it there can be consequences.
If you can get away with an s300, then it is the cheapest route.
But if your talking about converting a 2001+ civic to OBD1, that is a poor decision. You'll end up spending far too much for a second rate tune.
....
Tunes change fuel ratios, and ignition timing. That's it.
Stock, you won't see much more power. "Lean is mean" basically N/A, a lean air fuel ratio like what you have will make more power and run safe.
14.7:1 is about perfect for N/A gas engines, which is about where the factory leaves the ratio, sometimes even leaner at idle 15.5:1.
If your engine has vtec, they do run a bit rich. So you could try to lower the ratio. But its rich to prevent detonation. If you mess with it there can be consequences.
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My Civic is a 99. What would your recommendation on a piggyback or standalone ecu. I would like to buy one that I can change the tune depending on what I do build wise to the civic.
Dr Krieger of Modification
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Stand alone units are always better because the unit is designed to replace the OEM cpu and plug directly into the OEM wiring harness.
This means that you don't have as hard of a time tuning because you don't need to generate all of the signals to trick the original cpu while also changing those signals and sending them to the components.
However, stand alone ecu units are usually double the cost of piggyback units.
....
I would wait on the tuning gear until you need it. You really only need to tune if you have changed the combustion dynamics beyond the OEM signal range.
You don't need to tune for
-intake
-header
-exhaust
-stage 1 camshafts
-larger throttle bodies
-intake manifolds
-upgraded clutch
-light weight flywheel
-lsd
-or any suspension modifications
......
You do need to tune for
-high compression pistons
-turbo charged builds
-supercharged builds
-pro charges builds
-massive fuel increases (550cc injectors)
This means that you don't have as hard of a time tuning because you don't need to generate all of the signals to trick the original cpu while also changing those signals and sending them to the components.
However, stand alone ecu units are usually double the cost of piggyback units.
....
I would wait on the tuning gear until you need it. You really only need to tune if you have changed the combustion dynamics beyond the OEM signal range.
You don't need to tune for
-intake
-header
-exhaust
-stage 1 camshafts
-larger throttle bodies
-intake manifolds
-upgraded clutch
-light weight flywheel
-lsd
-or any suspension modifications
......
You do need to tune for
-high compression pistons
-turbo charged builds
-supercharged builds
-pro charges builds
-massive fuel increases (550cc injectors)
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The newer the technology the better your result. So if you can at least buy a good piggyback ecu, if not a stand alone.
If you can get away with an s300, then it is the cheapest route.
But if your talking about converting a 2001+ civic to OBD1, that is a poor decision. You'll end up spending far too much for a second rate tune.
....
Tunes change fuel ratios, and ignition timing. That's it.
Stock, you won't see much more power. "Lean is mean" basically N/A, a lean air fuel ratio like what you have will make more power and run safe.
14.7:1 is about perfect for N/A gas engines, which is about where the factory leaves the ratio, sometimes even leaner at idle 15.5:1.
If your engine has vtec, they do run a bit rich. So you could try to lower the ratio. But its rich to prevent detonation. If you mess with it there can be consequences.
If you can get away with an s300, then it is the cheapest route.
But if your talking about converting a 2001+ civic to OBD1, that is a poor decision. You'll end up spending far too much for a second rate tune.
....
Tunes change fuel ratios, and ignition timing. That's it.
Stock, you won't see much more power. "Lean is mean" basically N/A, a lean air fuel ratio like what you have will make more power and run safe.
14.7:1 is about perfect for N/A gas engines, which is about where the factory leaves the ratio, sometimes even leaner at idle 15.5:1.
If your engine has vtec, they do run a bit rich. So you could try to lower the ratio. But its rich to prevent detonation. If you mess with it there can be consequences.
They make conversion harness that plug into the stock obd2 wiring that alow you to run obd1 ecu like the p28. Im sure ALoT of people have done this to run hondata which is far superior to the obd2 ECU we currently have.
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