Rep Power: 211

Hey all -- Merry Christmas!

I've been researching into doing a motor swap with my 00 EX sedan for about a month now, and need help filling some holes (no homo) I am looking to stay naturally aspirated.

Motor mounts: I understand the function of these, but if I were to run with a B or a K series motor, would I need new custom mounts fabricated?

Bore: I understand that bore is the diameter measurement of the cylinders in a piston engine. When someone refers to "maximum overbore", what are they exactly referring to? What is the benefit of having a larger diameter in the cylinder? Wouldn't you loose compression?

Valve springs: If I did a B or a K series swap, should I leave these alone? I am looking to build the engine, but if I am staying naturally aspirated, would replacing these be of any benefit?

Cam: Whats the big difference between a stage 1 and a stage 2 cam?

Injectors: I understand the function of these, but what should I be looking at for cc's if I'm not running a turbo?

Last question...Lets say you have a K20A2 (Motor A):
Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC i-VTEC)
Displacement: 1998
Compression: 11
Horsepower: 200 at 7800rpm
Torque: 141 at 5600rpm

And a K20A (Motor B):
Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC i-VTEC)
Displacement: 1998
Compression: 11.5
Horsepower: 215 at 8000rpm
Torque: 150 at 7000rpm

Motor A has 200hp at 7800, whereas Motor B makes 215 at 8000. Motor B has .5 more compression, does this mean that the higher the compression, the more top end power? What benefits does this have? Does the higher compression make it a more efficient motor?

I think thats about it for now. I have a budget of about $6500 for this car. I am looking at a K24A2, K20A or a K20A2. My only problem with these swaps are they're newer than my car. Last I checked, I think that's illegal. If so--would I be stuck with B series engines? If not, which of the three engines would you choose?

Thank you all in advance for all your help!

 
Rep Power: 284

$6500 will only just barely get you any of the K motors you've listed, the k20a2 and k24a2 are each in the $3000 range all by themselves. If you wanted to K-swap one of the motors you listed within that price range you would need to use all stock parts, take your time to find extremely good deals on used parts and do all the work yourself. Since I suspect your not ready for that type of an undertaking and you want to do a minor motor build, you would need to budget somewhere closer to $10,000.

They make motor mounts for practically every swap possible, if they don't make mounts for a swap your considering doing your probably attempting something insane.

When you bore out a cylinder you also have new custom pistons made that will fit, it increases the displacement of the motor and thus the potential power. When your changing out the pistons you have the potential to either increase or decrease compression.

Depending on how aggressive the cam profile is you might need valve springs, using bc cams as an example you can't go past stage 1 without a building the head.

The big difference in a stage 1-2-3 cam is how aggressive the cam profile is, more aggressive cam means more power. You can't just slap a stage 2 cam into a stock motor or a stage 3 into your daily driver, so you need to match the cam to your power goals.

I can't tell you what size injectors to look for, thats build specific.

If you wanted to do a k20a swap with a built motor and have a car capable of handling the power, you would need to raise your budget to at least $15,000.

You can't swap in a motor thats older than the chassis, so you have very few options.

If you want to make your car a faster, the least expensive and probably best option for you would forced induction.

 
Rep Power: 0

Ive been rolling around with an illegal motor for 6 months now. Since then I have put the title in my name and got new tabs for the car. Yes you might be running a risk in doing that, but does any one really look at what motor you have in car when doing these things? I do plan on doing a different motor swap soon since I'm not happy with what I have now.

 
Rep Power: 284

They do if you live somewhere with emissions laws or you get a vehicle inspection.

 
Rep Power: 291

They do check in California
If you look reasonably ricey, they will ask you to pop the hood

remember, they can ASK you, but you're not forced to open it for them

"I do not consent to searches"
[Youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7asG-jOd4-I[/Youtube]

Sorry...I just had to put that out there

 
Rep Power: 367

?
I thought using a newer engine is allowed but you need to report it and have some tests depending on region.
Also, not sure how the K cams are, do they have stages?
Zeferint, you did not comment on the electric/eletronic parts - they could be messy, maybe more than hardware, although calling hasports should solve most of the issues.

 
Rep Power: 0

I live in WA and they do all kinds of crazy stuff. They did look under my hood once and told me that if I wanted to get a waiver to pass the emissions test I needed to have a stock air filter. They didn't know what they were looking at. So I just fixed the O2 reset the computer and passed with no issues. Here in WA they only look under the hood if you are trying to get waiver to pass the emissions test. In the end it's your choice if want to go that way or not. I'm just going to get POS truck to drive around in then I don't have to worry about all this dump emissions crap anyone. It's my honda I'll do what want to it.