Input on a d16y4 swap. Manual to auto.
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Rep Power: 0 Input on a d16y4 swap. Manual to auto.
Ok. So had a frustrating Thursday. Idler Tensioner Pulley seized, took out the timing belt, damaged the valves/rods etc in my sedan
Had some time constraints so i picked up another cheap ek hatch - intending on pulling out the engine and switching it over to the sedan.
Only hiccup is one is auto and one is manual. How hard should it be switching the engines. Manual > auto. I prefer the manual trans but right now i need to swap.
Any tips, steps i should consider. Hard to find info on a manual > auto conversion.
Ill probably eventually swap it all to manual again but right now i just need to switch it over without the pedals, linkages, ecu issues etc
Thanks
Had some time constraints so i picked up another cheap ek hatch - intending on pulling out the engine and switching it over to the sedan.
Only hiccup is one is auto and one is manual. How hard should it be switching the engines. Manual > auto. I prefer the manual trans but right now i need to swap.
Any tips, steps i should consider. Hard to find info on a manual > auto conversion.
Ill probably eventually swap it all to manual again but right now i just need to switch it over without the pedals, linkages, ecu issues etc
Thanks
#2
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Input on a d16y4 swap. Manual to auto.
Stripped the timing belt out? Pull the head and replace bent valves. Probably easier than an engine swap IMO.
Seems like the main difference is gonna be swapping the flywheel/clutch to flex plate from the original engine, and if there is not a pilot bearing mounted in the flywheel then it's in the end of the crank and will need removed so the torque converter snout has clearance.
You'll have to compare your own manifolds and brackets and whatnot between the two engines.
Seems like the main difference is gonna be swapping the flywheel/clutch to flex plate from the original engine, and if there is not a pilot bearing mounted in the flywheel then it's in the end of the crank and will need removed so the torque converter snout has clearance.
You'll have to compare your own manifolds and brackets and whatnot between the two engines.
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