97 civic Ex won't pop into gear
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hey guys my 99 civic lx has a blown headgasket now i have my dad's white 97 civic ex to drive 5 spd manual transmission
it won't pop into gear when my car is on but when its off it's slides in smooth like butter
this happened a while back, my clutch pedal lost all pressure and it turned out to be my clutch fluid was low so i poured in dot 3 brake fluid inside (some gunk floated to the surface) and that seemed to fix the problem
fast forward to today...and now my car won't pop into any gear (with car running) 1st 2nd 3rd 4th reverse...nope...
i was thinking i needed to replace my clutch fluid because it's dirty and maybe it'll restore my clutch pressure.
my buddy jamal from 3 doors down told me that i need to replace my tranny fluid as well...
what do u guys think...worth a try or waste of my time?
it won't pop into gear when my car is on but when its off it's slides in smooth like butter
this happened a while back, my clutch pedal lost all pressure and it turned out to be my clutch fluid was low so i poured in dot 3 brake fluid inside (some gunk floated to the surface) and that seemed to fix the problem
fast forward to today...and now my car won't pop into any gear (with car running) 1st 2nd 3rd 4th reverse...nope...
i was thinking i needed to replace my clutch fluid because it's dirty and maybe it'll restore my clutch pressure.
my buddy jamal from 3 doors down told me that i need to replace my tranny fluid as well...
what do u guys think...worth a try or waste of my time?
#2
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 97 civic Ex won't pop into gear
hey guys my 99 civic lx has a blown headgasket
Did you check and refill the clutch fluid TODAY?
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k found the slave cylinder
https://imgur.com/a/VcGgu
thats enuff research for tody.
tmrw im going to print out these diagrams n locate it in my car.
then im gonig to figure out what i need to bleed the clutch fluid.
then im gonna do it
hopefully by the end of this weeek i should be done w/ this project
i still need 2 do research on how to do it n what tools i need
hopefully its a cheap job
also i can't find the transmission fluid dipstick...
https://imgur.com/a/VcGgu
thats enuff research for tody.
tmrw im going to print out these diagrams n locate it in my car.
then im gonig to figure out what i need to bleed the clutch fluid.
then im gonna do it
hopefully by the end of this weeek i should be done w/ this project
i still need 2 do research on how to do it n what tools i need
hopefully its a cheap job
also i can't find the transmission fluid dipstick...
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ok i found master
https://imgur.com/lwdBAOo
and slave
https://imgur.com/gnkcvik
supposedly i attach a hose onto the nipple on the right and unscrew it and pump my clutch
https://imgur.com/lwdBAOo
and slave
https://imgur.com/gnkcvik
supposedly i attach a hose onto the nipple on the right and unscrew it and pump my clutch
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https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-clutch-42465/
this guide says push the slave cyl rod into the slave cyl to bleed the slave cyl.
what is he on about? is he talking about the clutch line??
https://imgur.com/a/uM6ep
this guide says push the slave cyl rod into the slave cyl to bleed the slave cyl.
what is he on about? is he talking about the clutch line??
https://imgur.com/a/uM6ep
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jim bates says to tilt the master cylinder and pump the push rod to pump the air out
what push rods are these mechanics talking about???
what push rods are these mechanics talking about???
#11
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 97 civic Ex won't pop into gear
I'm ignoring the rest of the posts for now.
Go to the slave cylinder on the trans and slide the rubber boot off the edge a bit with your finger, see if it has been holding a bunch of fluid inside it.
After you let the trapped fluid out of the rubber boot, see if the pedal action returns to normal
EDIT: See the Random GIS image--this boot, not the larger boot that covers the throwout fork
Go to the slave cylinder on the trans and slide the rubber boot off the edge a bit with your finger, see if it has been holding a bunch of fluid inside it.
After you let the trapped fluid out of the rubber boot, see if the pedal action returns to normal
EDIT: See the Random GIS image--this boot, not the larger boot that covers the throwout fork
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I'm ignoring the rest of the posts for now.
Go to the slave cylinder on the trans and slide the rubber boot off the edge a bit with your finger, see if it has been holding a bunch of fluid inside it.
After you let the trapped fluid out of the rubber boot, see if the pedal action returns to normal
EDIT: See the Random GIS image--this boot, not the larger boot that covers the throwout fork
Go to the slave cylinder on the trans and slide the rubber boot off the edge a bit with your finger, see if it has been holding a bunch of fluid inside it.
After you let the trapped fluid out of the rubber boot, see if the pedal action returns to normal
EDIT: See the Random GIS image--this boot, not the larger boot that covers the throwout fork
#13
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 97 civic Ex won't pop into gear
I guess it depends on if you can move the larger rubber cover out of the way easily.
My thinking is this: IF the boot has filled with fluid, if there is enough fluid pressure it can cause the pedal action to change (because that pressure causes the slaves piston to be pushed in when it should not), lowering the engagement point to the point it doesn't completely disengage.
Simply pulling the boot back to let built up fluid escape might get it to act right again, at least temporarily.
And it proves where all that fluid went the last time you had to refill it.
This actually happened on my truck several years ago (mysterious low pedal) , and rather than replace the slave cylinder that seeps I opted to cut a small slit in the boot to let the seepage escape. I have to top off the master cylinder about once every 3 years lol
My thinking is this: IF the boot has filled with fluid, if there is enough fluid pressure it can cause the pedal action to change (because that pressure causes the slaves piston to be pushed in when it should not), lowering the engagement point to the point it doesn't completely disengage.
Simply pulling the boot back to let built up fluid escape might get it to act right again, at least temporarily.
And it proves where all that fluid went the last time you had to refill it.
This actually happened on my truck several years ago (mysterious low pedal) , and rather than replace the slave cylinder that seeps I opted to cut a small slit in the boot to let the seepage escape. I have to top off the master cylinder about once every 3 years lol
Last edited by ezone; 09-13-2017 at 12:48 AM.
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I guess it depends on if you can move the larger rubber cover out of the way easily.
My thinking is this: IF the boot has filled with fluid, if there is enough fluid pressure it can cause the pedal action to change (because that pressure causes the slaves piston to be pushed in when it should not), lowering the engagement point to the point it doesn't completely disengage.
Simply pulling the boot back to let built up fluid escape might get it to act right again, at least temporarily.
And it proves where all that fluid went the last time you had to refill it.
This actually happened on my truck several years ago (mysterious low pedal) , and rather than replace the slave cylinder that seeps I opted to cut a small slit in the boot to let the seepage escape. I have to top off the master cylinder about once every 3 years lol
My thinking is this: IF the boot has filled with fluid, if there is enough fluid pressure it can cause the pedal action to change (because that pressure causes the slaves piston to be pushed in when it should not), lowering the engagement point to the point it doesn't completely disengage.
Simply pulling the boot back to let built up fluid escape might get it to act right again, at least temporarily.
And it proves where all that fluid went the last time you had to refill it.
This actually happened on my truck several years ago (mysterious low pedal) , and rather than replace the slave cylinder that seeps I opted to cut a small slit in the boot to let the seepage escape. I have to top off the master cylinder about once every 3 years lol
anyways ill check it out and report back asap
#15
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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k im back there is no fluid in the boots..i pulled in both ends towards the center...
also tore the bigger boot that covers everything. hopefully it doesnt matter.
bleed time?
i still don't know what push rod these mechanics are talking about or is it overkill to go the extra mile?
also tore the bigger boot that covers everything. hopefully it doesnt matter.
bleed time?
i still don't know what push rod these mechanics are talking about or is it overkill to go the extra mile?
#17
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 97 civic Ex won't pop into gear
Look inside under the dash where the clutch pedal linkage (the pushrod) goes toward the firewall and clutch master cylinder...see if the master has a drip or has obviously been wet with brake fluid, maybe evidence that it has dripped fluid there, maybe got the carpet damp or stained.
also tore the bigger boot that covers everything. hopefully it doesnt matter.
bleed time?
i still don't know what push rod these mechanics are talking about or is it overkill to go the extra mile?
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Ok you said it ran low a month ago......so where did the missing fluid disappear to?
Look inside under the dash where the clutch pedal linkage (the pushrod) goes toward the firewall and clutch master cylinder...see if the master has a drip or has obviously been wet with brake fluid, maybe evidence that it has dripped fluid there, maybe got the carpet damp or stained.
How bad? It's just a dust cover but it should at least keep the big rocks out of the hole.
Maaaybe. IDK.
Check pedal free play first. If free play is correct, don't mess with it.
Look inside under the dash where the clutch pedal linkage (the pushrod) goes toward the firewall and clutch master cylinder...see if the master has a drip or has obviously been wet with brake fluid, maybe evidence that it has dripped fluid there, maybe got the carpet damp or stained.
How bad? It's just a dust cover but it should at least keep the big rocks out of the hole.
Maaaybe. IDK.
Check pedal free play first. If free play is correct, don't mess with it.
I have no free play
i tested using this guys method @2:34
i have 0 play, 0 pressure, it just goes to the floor and back up. it isnt super flat its a little pressure but i tried to tap it like that guy did and i didn't detect any play, i pushed it to the floor easily with little pressure.
im gonna bleed this thing....do i really need a flare wrench???
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im thinkin maybe the brake fluid evaporated...i had a 99 civic lx that had its steering power fluid empty...i went to a mechanic cuz another mechanic told me it was a ball bearing joint replacement but dude said nah ur power steering low and he poured me up...
fixed it up.... so maybe same issue.
fixed it up.... so maybe same issue.
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https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-clutch-42465/
im doing tihs one...seems to be a combo of everything.
im doing tihs one...seems to be a combo of everything.
#24
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 97 civic Ex won't pop into gear
Holy cow, that was painful to watch. That video is correct about how to check the free play.
Very basic pic (rando goggle image)
Index fingertip gently on the pedal, push gently using first joint of that finger.... you should have (guess) maybe 2-5mm (measured at the pedal where your foot goes) of free movement before you feel resistance. (found pic after writing that, pic agrees with my random 2-5mm guess LOL)
Dude was backing off the clutch position switch to gain free play, which may also be the pedal upper stop... This also changes total pedal travel which may or may not be a good thing. There is an actual spec if you want to look that up in a service manual.
Actual adjustment point is on the master pushrod and clevis, they are threaded, and use a locknut. It's RARE to actually need to adjust one.
This is never affected by replacing a clutch/pressure plate/throwout/etc....Kid in the video is incorrect about that.
I just changed a clutch master on something else a day or two ago, I set it up so the pin that attaches the pushrod to the pedal slid in without having to move the rod or pedal. The free play ended up at about 5mm.
Brake fluid doesn't evaporate. Neither does power steering fluid.
It's also possible something in the clutch has a problem....something the master and slave hydraulic system can't compensate for.
(remove the bug dust cover) When you push the clutch pedal down, see that the rod from the slave does extend and moves the throwout arm far enough to disengage the clutch.
(I can't tell you how much movement that has to be though)
Very basic pic (rando goggle image)
Index fingertip gently on the pedal, push gently using first joint of that finger.... you should have (guess) maybe 2-5mm (measured at the pedal where your foot goes) of free movement before you feel resistance. (found pic after writing that, pic agrees with my random 2-5mm guess LOL)
Dude was backing off the clutch position switch to gain free play, which may also be the pedal upper stop... This also changes total pedal travel which may or may not be a good thing. There is an actual spec if you want to look that up in a service manual.
Actual adjustment point is on the master pushrod and clevis, they are threaded, and use a locknut. It's RARE to actually need to adjust one.
This is never affected by replacing a clutch/pressure plate/throwout/etc....Kid in the video is incorrect about that.
I just changed a clutch master on something else a day or two ago, I set it up so the pin that attaches the pushrod to the pedal slid in without having to move the rod or pedal. The free play ended up at about 5mm.
Brake fluid doesn't evaporate. Neither does power steering fluid.
It's also possible something in the clutch has a problem....something the master and slave hydraulic system can't compensate for.
(remove the bug dust cover) When you push the clutch pedal down, see that the rod from the slave does extend and moves the throwout arm far enough to disengage the clutch.
(I can't tell you how much movement that has to be though)
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Ok I measure w w ruler and it is CONFIRMED half an inch of free play or 12mm
here is a vid of my slave piston working
https://youtu.be/8ameaGKbz24
here is a vid of my slave piston working
https://youtu.be/8ameaGKbz24
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hi okay im back
i bled my clutch using this method
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-clutch-42465/
including pushin my push rod and idk it seems like my clutch feels a lot worse
also when i push the clutch pedal the fork arm moves all the way to the left wall
i caught a vid of my clutch pedel free-play and clutch arm movement AFTER i bled the clutch using this method: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-clutch-42465/
video here:
needless to say this did NOT work i want 2 die
i bled my clutch using this method
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-clutch-42465/
including pushin my push rod and idk it seems like my clutch feels a lot worse
also when i push the clutch pedal the fork arm moves all the way to the left wall
i caught a vid of my clutch pedel free-play and clutch arm movement AFTER i bled the clutch using this method: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...-clutch-42465/
video here:
needless to say this did NOT work i want 2 die