lindylex

p { margin-bottom: 0.1in; line-height: 120%; }a:link { } I would like to stop or slowdown as much as possible oil leaks from my 1997 Honda Civic LX. One of the gaskets I have seen as a suggestion to replace is the gasket around the oil pan. To do this I will need to remove the muffler. I attached a photo of the muffler where the screws holding it up must be removed.


I recent got the muffler work done January of 2016. It looks like they just welded the front pipe to the catalytic converter. I might be wrong but the bolts look extremely rusted. Does it look like the bolts can come out easily? I doubt it and looks like some heat and other things will be needed to remove. Are the bolts attached to the catalytic converter? Should I purchase a new catalytic converter?


What else do I need to replace to slowdown or prevent oil from leaking? I guess the head gasket too. I replaced the distributer last year and it came with a new gasket.


If I get the muffler removed from the catalytic converter I will need to get new bolts. Where do I get those and what are the called? I know the bolts in muffler4.jpg are spring bolts. The others I am not sure of.


Photos of the engine and exhaust system are here: http://www.mo-de.net/d/honda/


Thanks in advance.

ezone

Does it leave puddles on the ground when you park?
How much oil does it leak on the ground, and in how much time?

How much oil does it use (burn)?



I'd replace the valve cover gasket set first.....just because that looks like it's leaking, the leak runs downhill, and is easy to do.

Then clean the entire mess, make it very clean.
Drive it.
Inspect for fresh leakage and find where it originates, then fix that leak.

lindylex

ezone, what type of valve cover gasket do you recommend? I will do that first and clean everything and see where else it leaks.

"Does it leave puddles on the ground when you park?" I have not noticed any. I live in a busy metropolis that has many oil dripping cars. The road can be very dark at other places where I park making it difficult to see if oil has dripped. I will try to see and place something under to help me find drips.

"How much oil does it leak on the ground, and in how much time?" I have not payed attention.

"How much oil does it use (burn)?" It burns 1 quart every 4 weeks.

ezone

Not sure what you are asking here. A correct gasket?

How many miles is that?

Question: is your goal to make the engine look better by slowing the leaks, or is your goal to reduce the consumption rate to less than a quart per month?

Step 1, prove it's leaking externally at a rate that justifies using a quart per month. I'd expect to see several drips or small puddles under the car after it sits overnight if it's leaking oil at that rate.

Slide dry cardboard under the front of the car so you can see if your car drips on it overnight.

Keep in mind what you took pictures of kind of looks like a decade of dirt buildup on a thin film of oil, more than it looks like rapid and active leaks (but I can only see the pics you posted). Fresh rapid active leaks might even 'wash' a clean trail through the mess of dirt buildup from the source.
That's why I suggested cleaning it all so you have a fresh slate to start looking for leakage.

Step 2, if it's not leaking that much oil externally, then it's likely consuming it inside the engine. There's a couple things you can check, but high mileage engines tend to do this.

lindylex

ezone, do gaskets come in different materials, such as cork, rubber or something else? I drive about 1,000 miles every 3 - 4 weeks.

I cleaned the engine summer of 2016 with engine cleaner. I did not spray under only all that I could on top. I cleaned it very well.

I will do it again specifically underneath and take new photos.

Thanks

ezone

Ok. I've never seen any choice for this engine.
The valve cover gasket on this one is rubber.

A quart per 1000 miles is considered an acceptable rate of consumption, even if not particularly desirable.

It's already become messy down the front of the engine, yes? Valve cover gasket would be a good place to start then IMO.
The pics showing underneath may be years of accumulation then?


Also, every time someone changes the oil and removes the filter, some oil pools on the engine under the filter and runs down a bracket to drip at the transmission and oil pan if they neglect to clean it off... They can drip for a few days days, though it should cease in a short time. Maybe this could explain some of the mess of oily dirt buildup?

old97civic

I changed my valve cover gasket a few years ago, I used a Fel-Pro, they are great. I recall the kit came with the bolt grommets and spark plug tube seals. These are a bit more challenging than the cover gasket, but a bit of patience and you'll get it done. I had to change out some of my spark plug tube seals a second time as I was not careful enough when reinstalling the valve cover, pinching some of the seals, so watch for that.

I also changed the oil pan gasket around the same time and removed the front exhaust pipe. I didn't have an impact wrench at the time but with some penetrating spray and some patience I got the nuts off. As I recall there are 3 nuts that you remove from below and the other side are studs that are part of the converter flange, so try not to break these If you do, you'll have to drill out the stud in order to use a new bolt.

For the valve cover and oil pan gaskets, don't forget to put a small dab of RTV in the corners where the camshaft and crankshaft bearing housings are, the seals can't quite conform to the shape there.

Edit: looking at the photos again I see you've already removed one of the 3 bolts at the front. On mine these were just bolts and nuts, no springs (actually studs attached to converter flange, and nuts under the exhaust pipe flange)