compu2

Hi have honda civic LX '00 the Car wont shift into drive. I am pushing the brake down and it wont let out of park, but I click the button on the shifter, and then let me shift also the transmission shift at high RPM, 4000 rpm,no codes and all fuses good, someone can help me please ?

compu2

Hi have honda civic LX '00 the Car wont shift into drive. I am pushing the brake down and it wont let out of park, but I click the button on the shifter, and then let me shift also the transmission shift at high RPM, 4000 rpm,no codes and all fuses good, someone can help me please ?

ezone

What codes does it have?

I'd expect the TPS either set a code or the TPS voltage reading is much higher than it should be.

Colin42

You have to have your foot on the brake and push the button in order to get the car out of park. Shifting at 4000 isn't really that unusual. What makes you think something wrong?

compu2

When I wrote "I am pushing the brake down and it wont let out of park" obviously is understandable that I am putting my foot on the brake and push the button in order to get the car out of park.

Colin42

Then what "button" are you talking about here?

The shift interlock override?

With the car on can you hear the solenoid click when you step on the brake?

compu2

Yes the shift interlock override , I don't hear any click .

compu2

Thank you for your help,
When I push the brake with the engine on , I do not hear a small click sound coming near the gearshift .My brake lights are not on all the time, just when I push the brake , Yes I Can move the shifter with the key inserted. Now the light of the check engine is on and when I put the scanner the code that gave me is the P1106 Barometric pressure sensor, I did procedure to check the map sensor and it is good and I did the procedure to reset the Barometric pressure sensor code and the code went off but when I turn off the car and turn back on and I start to drive, the same code (P1106 )come back again , I know the Barometric pressure sensor is at the ecu but I need to know the exactly location at the ecu so I need the schematic for the ecu.

Colin42

So there's your problem.
did anything get spilled in that area?
You can pull all the trim off so you can verify with your eyes that nothing happens when you step on the brake. Test to see if the solenoid is getting power and ground.

Colin42

The ecu is underneath the carpet on the passenger side up towards the firewall

compu2

No , solenoid not getting power

ezone

Threads merged.

Use your scanner to display live data and tell us the MAP reading, the BARO reading, and the TPS reading with the engine OFF

compu2

Using my scanner , the only code that I am having right now is P1106 Barometric pressure sensor

compu2

So my transmission shifting at high RPM, 4000 rpm can be due to the P1106 Barometric pressure sensor circuit range/performance problem?

ezone

I know you got a code. Now we need to read some live operating data.

compu2

My scanner doesn't have read live data option

ezone

Ok, can you measure those three sensor values directly by using a voltmeter and backprobing where necessary?

I would like to find out if the MAP and BARO sensors match each other exactly (both report the same value for atmospheric pressure), and I wish to know the TPS value to determine if it may be causing the shifter interlock complaint.

Or would you like a SWAG instead?

compu2

Ok, I couldn't measure the baro because that sensor is at the ECU but I did measure the MAP sensor and the voltages decrease when I apply vacuum, the values are:
Vacuum(in HG) / Voltage
0 / 3
5 / 2.5
10 / 2
15 / 1.5
20 / 1.0
I think the map is working fine, therefore the problem can be at baro sensor?

ezone

I wanted to compare MAP value to BARO. I can't do that without a BARO reading, I think a scanner will be necessary to do that.
A severely restricted intake (filter, ductwork) can cause a BARO code, have you checked that?

What about the TPS voltage (closed throttle)?
Set your voltmeter to read down to hundredths of a volt please. Rounding off at .5 is not accurate enough.

compu2

The filter is new,the mechanic cleaned the ductwork , I did mesure the TPS voltage (closed throttle)= 1.0 voltage and full open = 4.5 voltage, but there is not way to measure the baro it is at the ECU board.

ezone

Abort, retry.

Set your voltmeter to read down to hundredths of a volt please. Rounding off at .5 is not accurate enough.

compu2

Sir, The multi miter is a automatic set for voltage , resistance etc. fluke multi meter

ezone

What kind of Fluke?
I'd like to see you get the resolution up to at least 2 decimal places.

I'm looking for closed throttle position voltage of 0.47v-0.51v.
The other two wires at the TPS should be a ground, and 5v. Verify those are correct if possible.

The PCM locks out the shifter if it believes the throttle is open (via TPS value higher than expected voltage)......... I don't know at what exact voltage the PCM locks out the shift lever, but I think it's cutoff is around 0.63v if memory serves correctly.

How about.... this check could tell you if the PCM has locked out the shifter:

You could go to the interlock control unit (leave all wiring connected) and backprobe the #7 white/red wire.....
ignition on, brake on: should read less than one volt
ignition on, brake on, accelerator pedal depressed: should read battery voltage


===

That BARO code means you probably need to replace the PCM though.
I have a feeling that whatever is causing that code may also be affecting the TPS reading within the PCM itself, that's another reason I'd want to see the numbers in a live data list (the data as interpreted by the processor in the PCM).

A TPS reading skewed high can cause the shift lock problem and cause the trans to shift late (high RPM) because the PCM believes the throttle is open more than it really is

compu2

Ok, thanks, I went to the service manual to do the TPS and according to the book the first thing that tells me is to measure the resistance of the tps " Turn the ignition switch OFF., At the sensor side, measure resistance between the TP sensor terminals No. 1 and No. 2 with the throttle fully closed.ls there approx. 0.5 - 0.9 k0?" no
so I followed this when I measured the result was 1.2K.


"Measure resistance between the TP sensor terminnal No. 2 and No. 3 with the throftle fully closed.ls there approx.3.6 - 5.4 kO" no

I followed this, when I measured the result was 7.0K.

"throttle position voltage of 0.47v-0.51v", when measuring voltage (red/green signal and green/white ground)of with the throttle closed gave me 1.0v and full open 4.5v.

ezone

I have access to wiring diagrams, but I cannot provide it to you.
If I were to post a direct link, you'd have to have a paid subscription in order to view it.

Seems like someone has posted service manual links somewhere in the forum, search?
Try your local library? Many have access to service information resources such as Mitchell and Alldata.

compu2

Thank you , I wrote "Ok, thanks, I went to the service manual to do the TPS and according to the book the first thing that tells me is to measure the resistance of the tps " Turn the ignition switch OFF., At the sensor side, measure resistance between the TP sensor terminals No. 1 and No. 2 with the throttle fully closed.ls there approx. 0.5 - 0.9 k0?" no
so I followed this when I measured the result was 1.2K.


"Measure resistance between the TP sensor terminnal No. 2 and No. 3 with the throftle fully closed.ls there approx.3.6 - 5.4 kO" no

I followed this, when I measured the result was 7.0K.

"throttle position voltage of 0.47v-0.51v", when measuring voltage (red/green signal and green/white ground)of with the throttle closed gave me 1.0v and full open 4.5v."

What can I do ?change the TPS or clean up the throttle body?
Thanks for your help.

compu2

Also I was able to get the data: MAP (KPa)=37, TP= 34.9 %

ezone

So your results read as a big fail.

And this is apparently a fail.

Did you get your meter autorange turned off or manually lowered so we can read more accurately than the nearest .5v?



And the computer sees the same thing, grossly incorrect value for closed throttle.
You gotta figure out if (A) the TPS sensor is bad, or (B) if the throttle really is held or stuck open as far as the sensor indicates it is.

First off, make sure the throttle is actually fully closed and not stuck open or held open by something like cable misadjustment or a floor mat laying on the gas pedal.

Next I want to make sure the other two wires at the TPS connector actually have 5 volts and ground (test by backprobing while the sensor is connected and the key is on). If either 5v or ground at the sensor connector is not perfect, that skews the signal voltage returned to the PCM either higher or lower than it should.


How about the BARO value? MAP and BARO values need to be equal with the key on, engine off.


The BARO code still concerns me.
Do you still have the scanner?
Have you erased the codes, and how quick does the BARO code return after you erase the codes?

compu2

Ok I clean the throttle body and put new gasket, but still with the problem, and yes there is 5.4 volts at the other two wires at the TPS connector , connected and the key on.

What can I do? replace the tps?

ezone

Why? I'm looking to figure out a problem, not work on stuff. Wait, that ain't right. Exactly how did you measure this?



Got a friend with a similar car you can swap the PCM with just as a test?




Check the clump of ground wires that attach to the thermostat housing, remove the bolt and wire brush the eyelet, aluminum, and the bolt til you get clean shiny metal exposed. Reassemble.