Slow Acceleration Low Rpm ( manuel )
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Re: Slow Acceleration Low Rpm ( manuel )
OP: This site has a lot of good testing write-ups for 6th gens and other models: http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/hon...-of-articles-1
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Or
Repaired
Daily
Except for their trucks which are solid.
I performed the spark plug wire leak test before work this morning and no visible arcing noticed.
Last edited by Wankenstein; Aug 7, 2016 at 07:58 AM.
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Re: Slow Acceleration Low Rpm ( manuel )
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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Sparks coming out of the very end of the wire is correct, thats where the sparkplug has to receive it.
Sparks through the side is wrong
Sparks through the side is wrong
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Don't throw parts at it... as Ezone said the ticking when the spark plug wire is first lifted off of the spark plug or when held against ground is normal, as long as it's not arcing from the sides of the spark plug wire. If the engine is using NGK or Prestolite wires it's uncommon for them to be the weak or failed source of ignition.
The ticking sound is supposed to be rythmic due to the rotation of the distributor and rotor delivering spark to the cap points and SP wires at repetative timed intervals.
Have you performed a dry and wet compression test on it yet?
Fuel injector testing: http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/hon...el-injectors-1
Have you performed a valve lash adjustment?
As an apprentice mechanic these should all be test and maintanence that you either have or will learn to do.
The ticking sound is supposed to be rythmic due to the rotation of the distributor and rotor delivering spark to the cap points and SP wires at repetative timed intervals.
Have you performed a dry and wet compression test on it yet?
Fuel injector testing: http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/hon...el-injectors-1
Have you performed a valve lash adjustment?
As an apprentice mechanic these should all be test and maintanence that you either have or will learn to do.
Last edited by Wankenstein; Aug 9, 2016 at 02:16 PM.
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Don't throw parts at it... as Ezone said the ticking when the spark plug wire is first lifted off of the spark plug or when held against ground is normal, as long as it's not arcing from the sides of the spark plug wire. If the engine is using NGK or Prestolite wires it's uncommon for them to be the weak or failed source of ignition.
The ticking sound is supposed to be rythmic due to the rotation of the distributor and rotor delivering spark to the cap points and SP wires at repetative timed intervals.
Have you performed a dry and wet compression test on it yet?
Fuel injector testing: http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/hon...el-injectors-1
Have you performed a valve lash adjustment?
As an apprentice mechanic these should all be test and maintanence that you either have or will learn to do.
The ticking sound is supposed to be rythmic due to the rotation of the distributor and rotor delivering spark to the cap points and SP wires at repetative timed intervals.
Have you performed a dry and wet compression test on it yet?
Fuel injector testing: http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/hon...el-injectors-1
Have you performed a valve lash adjustment?
As an apprentice mechanic these should all be test and maintanence that you either have or will learn to do.
Last edited by PsychicExperien; Aug 10, 2016 at 01:48 PM.
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The TB replacemnt and valve adjustment is a good move however, at least do a dry and wet compression test first to rule out a possible leaky cylinder. Also, if you have the means a leak-down test should help isolate a possible valve(s) leak. My point is that if there is a leaking cylinder or valve causing a misfire and/or the issue your engine has are you sure you want to invest more money into it (i.e. timing belt, waterpump, tensioner)?
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The TB replacemnt and valve adjustment is a good move however, at least do a dry and wet compression test first to rule out a possible leaky cylinder. Also, if you have the means a leak-down test should help isolate a possible valve(s) leak. My point is that if there is a leaking cylinder or valve causing a misfire and/or the issue your engine has are you sure you want to invest more money into it (i.e. timing belt, waterpump, tensioner)?
Yes you are right and i was going to do the timing belt because i got it as a gift from a friend
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The TB replacemnt and valve adjustment is a good move however, at least do a dry and wet compression test first to rule out a possible leaky cylinder. Also, if you have the means a leak-down test should help isolate a possible valve(s) leak. My point is that if there is a leaking cylinder or valve causing a misfire and/or the issue your engine has are you sure you want to invest more money into it (i.e. timing belt, waterpump, tensioner)?
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