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lost my spark last week...replaced (salvage) distributor...got spark but now acts like its not getting fuel...long crank to finally get it to putter....once it starts and runs for a few minutes its fine...runs and starts fine when warm...just bad starting...replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs

 
Rep Power: 518

IF this problem arose immediately after replacing the distributor, I suggest you recheck that. Maybe it isn't a good one.

Is it timed correctly?

 
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timing is correct...actually when it does finally start it runs better than before....can a coil have a "weak" spark that could actually get stronger as the engine cranks, or is it safe to say that if you have a spark it should be a good one?? I know I have fire thru my wires...I also checked my main relay...last nite I noticed that when it started, it was like in a low idle and wouldn't take fuel for a few seconds, then when it like finally "opened" up and took fuel it was ok...altho this acts like a fuel issue, since I have replaced most of the fuel system components and still have problem, yes, I think it's time to look at the distributor again....thanks

 
Rep Power: 518

So, when did this problem arise? You haven't said. Was it doing this before you changed the distributor, or not?

Something that controls the coil, maybe...
The coil itself having such a problem, I strongly doubt it. They are pretty much simply good or bad.


Not always, the question is one of available voltage.

How much voltage is available at the spark plugs?

If you have leaky secondary insulation (cap, rotor, wires, plugs), spark can take the path of less resistance to ground. You could see little sparks at the plugs, but spark could go elsewhere when cylinder and voltage demand is high. Spark will jump the smaller gap.

Many of the bad coils will do exactly this. Spark leakage through the insulation on the side of the coil to the ground shield. Coil might be able to produce a spark at the tower that jumps 1/8 inch but no bigger, because the ground shield is the closest ground and smaller gap.


So, how much voltage is available at the plugs?
The spark needs to be strong enough to jump about a 1/2 inch gap at the end of the plug wires. (Far more than just sticking a plug in the wire and seeing the spark between the electrodes gapped at 1.1mm.)

I expect to see that much, and if I were to check it right at the coil, I'd expect it to jump about 3/4 inch (approx. 30kV).



If it has what I consider good spark when the problem is present, then I'd probably be checking on fuel: Too much or too little? CTS and ECM?

 
Rep Power: 0

everything started with the distributor change

 
Rep Power: 518

What was wrong with the original distributor?

 
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never checked voltage on original distributor, just checked for fire with induction timing light and to ground...no fire...replaced with junk yard distributor...gets fire and eventually starts, but its not right...really acts like a fuel issue...replaced fuel pump (new), filter, plugs, rotor button...now replaced with 2nd distributor, and same problem...I know I'm getting good fuel to the filter, but on cold start it just acts like it needs to be choked....cranks and crank, finally get a little hit, keep cranking and little by little it gets better...when it does start tho, for the first few seconds (10-20 or so) it runs but acts like it won't take fuel...then all of a sudden it will pick up and smooth out...after it starts the first time, it will restart every time while its warm, and runs great when its running....and yes, this was a sudden thing...car ran great up until this happened...I had a 2nd main relay I tried with no change, but can't be 100% sure about it...I took the cover off and didn't see any damage on the board but still not 100%...are there any other fuel relays, fuses, etc. that I'm missing?? can a bad ECU cause this?? since it runs great after starting I haven't really looked at things like that....thanks for your help

 
Rep Power: 518

What car do you have?
Year and everything.


Sooo many 6th gens only poop the coil the first time it loses spark, you can just stick another coil in and run again.




You now have 2 extra distributors?
And you say this all began after changing the dist, so.......
Get your original dist, swap a coil out of another, then stick your original dist back in.
See if it runs.
If it runs ok, then see if it starts any better.




Still hard to start?
Grab a spray can of something flammable, hopefully a can of carb and throttle plate cleaner.
Get someone to crank it, and you give a spritz of the cleaner into the throttle body....Does it fire now, or try to fire? (that would be a sign that it needs more fuel)


Sure, it could be a computer......but it could just as easily be something else related to the computer, telling it to squirt the wrong amount of fuel or something.



What year is the car?
Any codes?
Got data list?
What is the coolant temp reading in the datalist when the engine is stone cold?

 
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I have 97 civic 1.6 vtec HX....yesterday I reinspected the main relay...cant see any obvious cracks but resoldered a couple anyway...no change, but again Im not ruling out this relay...now, I've found that if I take the intake lose at the throttle body and spray carb cleaner into it the engine fires right up...SO, what controls fuel at engine startup?? ps...about the distributor..given that I've replaced it twice with no difference, I think it's safe to say it's ok and look in a different direction

 
Rep Power: 518

Aw, man...Moving thread to 6th gen in a sec.
I resolder every item on the board when I do it. There are only like 15 or so (varies), it's easy.

So, you proved it is lacking fuel at that time.

There's the fuel supply, and the fuel control.
Is the pump (main relay) getting activated during key on and during cranking? (test light on power wire to pump)
Is the PCM powered up? (CEL comes on at key on)

What's the PCM doing?

Scanner is the next tool in my arsenal.

Got a scanner that can display live engine data?
What is the coolant temp reading when cold?
What is the IAT reading at the same time? They should be within just a couple degrees of each other after sitting overnight.


Want a wildass stab in the dark? Coolant temp sensor for the computer.


I was stuck on you saying this hard start problem began with the dist. replacement. Seemed logical to start there, to me. Sorry.

 
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I can hear the fuel pump kick in when I turn the switch on...also, when I replaced the filter I had a leak issue (spraying actually) so I know its getting got fuel pressure to the filter at least...as far a coolant temp sensor, no, I don't have a scanner...to be sure I am right..this sensor is almost directly under the distributor and has a single wire plugging directly into the male connector of the sensor, correct?? I only checked this for connection and broken wires...there is a connector (facing engine) just to the right of this sensor...it has 2 wires, grey connector...what is this?? I noticed 1 wire was broken and when I moved it the other one came lose too...Im going to get a couple of small female connectors and plug directly onto sensor and bypass grey housing for plug...for that problem, do you think it has anything to do with the lack of fuel at startup?? now, you ask about the PCM...what should it be doing...Im not familiar with this "cel" light but could be something Ive just never paid attention to...basically, everything about the car is fine EXCEPT no fuel at (cold) startup

 
Rep Power: 518

The single wire sensor operates the temp gauge.

The computer uses the 2 wire sensor right near it.

Yeah, that one.
Fix the broken wires and I bet that will solve your problem.


The plastic connector housing is there to keep the connections waterproof.
CEL = Check Engine Light.
If the temp sensor has broken wires, that light should be on, and a code stored for that circuit.

 
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CEL...check engine light....lol....see why I avoid working on cars...I thought a lit CEL was standard on an old Honda...soon as it warms up I'll be fixing the broken wires..thanks

 
Rep Power: 518

*facepalm*

Only the broken ones.



Starting with the obvious could have made this so much quicker.

I suggest you get the codes and see what other problems this car has had all along.
Did these wires get damaged when changing the dist?

 
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and the problem was...........the broken wire @ coolant temp sensor...thanks for all your help