ignition coil wires
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ignition coil wires
can anyone help me find the wires that go to the ignition coil from inside the dizzy? when my coil went out i bought a new one but the screws holding the terminals on the coil were stripped to hell and back. so for a temp fix i cut the wires and soldered about an inch of wire onto the end so it could reach the coil. now i have a misfire above 4500 rpm.
ive tried looking on majestic and the image shows the wires but no part number.
does resistance matter on these wires? or can i just use some speaker wire or something?
ive tried looking on majestic and the image shows the wires but no part number.
does resistance matter on these wires? or can i just use some speaker wire or something?
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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Re: ignition coil wires
You probably still have a loose connection: Maybe one of the terminals at the igniter missed the blade sticking out, or one of the female terminals is sprung and fits loose, or your wire splices aren't making good contact.
Long ago, Honda sent us a set of crimpers for tightening the female spade connectors that attach to the igniter because they tend to loosen up over time and miles, causing misfires-- usually at high RPM when the buzzing vibrations have the most effect.
I have even seen a tach rise far beyond actual RPM because of loose terminals.
You can make your own wiring if need be, but it needs to be heat resistant, tight, well made, well insulated, and reliable.
Try to use the same wire gauge as was in there originally.
All wiring and connections should have 0 ohms of resistance.
You might be better off finding a used distributor to steal the wiring out of. I'd probably still pinch the sides of the female spade terminals so they grip tight upon installation.
HTH
Long ago, Honda sent us a set of crimpers for tightening the female spade connectors that attach to the igniter because they tend to loosen up over time and miles, causing misfires-- usually at high RPM when the buzzing vibrations have the most effect.
I have even seen a tach rise far beyond actual RPM because of loose terminals.
You can make your own wiring if need be, but it needs to be heat resistant, tight, well made, well insulated, and reliable.
Try to use the same wire gauge as was in there originally.
All wiring and connections should have 0 ohms of resistance.
You might be better off finding a used distributor to steal the wiring out of. I'd probably still pinch the sides of the female spade terminals so they grip tight upon installation.
HTH
Thread Starter
Registered!!
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 710
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Rep Power: 188 Re: ignition coil wires
You probably still have a loose connection: Maybe one of the terminals at the igniter missed the blade sticking out, or one of the female terminals is sprung and fits loose, or your wire splices aren't making good contact.
Long ago, Honda sent us a set of crimpers for tightening the female spade connectors that attach to the igniter because they tend to loosen up over time and miles, causing misfires-- usually at high RPM when the buzzing vibrations have the most effect.
I have even seen a tach rise far beyond actual RPM because of loose terminals.
You can make your own wiring if need be, but it needs to be heat resistant, tight, well made, well insulated, and reliable.
Try to use the same wire gauge as was in there originally.
All wiring and connections should have 0 ohms of resistance.
You might be better off finding a used distributor to steal the wiring out of. I'd probably still pinch the sides of the female spade terminals so they grip tight upon installation.
HTH
Long ago, Honda sent us a set of crimpers for tightening the female spade connectors that attach to the igniter because they tend to loosen up over time and miles, causing misfires-- usually at high RPM when the buzzing vibrations have the most effect.
I have even seen a tach rise far beyond actual RPM because of loose terminals.
You can make your own wiring if need be, but it needs to be heat resistant, tight, well made, well insulated, and reliable.
Try to use the same wire gauge as was in there originally.
All wiring and connections should have 0 ohms of resistance.
You might be better off finding a used distributor to steal the wiring out of. I'd probably still pinch the sides of the female spade terminals so they grip tight upon installation.
HTH
if all else fails i will probably find a dizzy at a yard or something and grab the wiring like u said.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 
Thread Starter
Registered!!
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 710
Likes: 1
From: Dayton, Ohio
Rep Power: 188 
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