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Seems people here are pretty knowledgeable, so hopefully someone can help! I just bought a 2000 Civic Coupe EX 2 weeks ago and my check engine light just came on yesterday. I don't know anything about this car except all the Carfax checked out okay. Anyway, I took it to Autozone and they ran the codes for me and P1336 and P1337 came up. Both are for the Crankshaft Position Sensor.

Autozone code sheets:

P1336 - Sensor intermittent interruption
Probable cause
1. Check Crankshaft position sensor
2. Open or short circuit condition
3. Poor electrical connection

P1337 - Sensor no signal
Probable cause
1. Check Crankshaft position sensor
2. Open or short circuit condition
3. Poor electrical connection

Before the CEL came on it did start fluctuating in RPM when idling, sometimes around 1500rpm in park. Is this most likely my problem? I don't have the equipment to replace it myself, so should I go ahead and spend the money to have it fixed, or should I try something else first? EDIT: Also, the car came with a pretty extensive warranty, so the repair may be covered if I do need to do it. I'll have to check later.

This is currently my only vehicle that's up and running, so quick answers are greatly appreciated!

 
Rep Power: 518

Look along the side of the timing cover. The CKP wiring is supposed to be tucked into little holders. After someone changes the timing belt, it is easy to forget to tuck the wires back in and they get damaged by the alternator belt.

 
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I did find a wire whose plastic cover was halfway sawn-through by the alternator belt. Any way I can fix this, or does the wire need to be replaced? I can't tell exactly how badly its frayed.

 
Rep Power: 518

Yep, that's it. Some lazy SOB didn't tuck it back in,and you can see one of the little brackets that harness is supposed to sit in. The tabs are a molded part of the timing cover.

The CKP is item #14 here, if I picked the correct car: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...NER+%28SOHC%29

The harness you can see is part of the Crank Sensor (CKP) itself. You can unplug it up behind the alternator, then work it out where you can work with it, and see if you can patch it back together, or you can just replace the CKP sensor (the wiring comes with it). Remember to tuck it in to the little holders this time.

 
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Is there any way to replace the wire without ordering an entire sensor, or is it always all one assembly? I figure just patching it probably won't work if its saying it can't get a signal from the sensor, though it may be worth a try.

 
Rep Power: 518

I guess I should have been calling this the CKF (Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation) sensor, since it is mainly used for misfire detection.
(The actual CKP is inside the distributor on that engine.)
It isn't the TDC sensor either, as that parts picture calls it--the actual TDC sensor is also inside the distributor.

The 8 inches of wire is part of the sensor. If you want to buy just one part of it, you buy it all.

All you have to do is reconnect the wire(s) that the alternator belt cut in half. There are like 3 wires inside the plastic wrap. Splice it if you think you can, but it needs to be small enough to tuck the harness into the little holders so it doesn't happen again. And it needs to be weatherproof.

 
Rep Power: 294

Have the dealer fix/replace it. You paid for a warranty, it should be covered. Typically, external parts like starters, alternators, exhaust,etc. aren't covered under a powertrain warranty. Plus, this was a pre existing/purchase problem. They should do the right thing. Good luck.

 
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Thanks for the help guys. Ill take it to a shop on Monday.

 
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I will give you the best advice anyone can give as I just had to go through this myself.

Unplug the crankshaft position sensor at it's connection point (very accessible right on top of the engine -- ping me if you cannot find it). Then... try starting your car. It should start right up. Once you have done that, please reply and PM me or direct email tverner@comcast.net. I will then tell you what to do next.

and if it is not too late, do not take it to a shop as they will likely take advantage of you. THis code will have you chasing your tail in circles if you don't know the trick.

 
Rep Power: 0

Late response, meh. Took it to Pep Boys, and they spliced the wires, taped them up, and ran them a different way (away from the accessory belts). No heat shrink tubing anymore though. CEL turned off when I disconnected my negative battery to put in a head unit (before taking it to Pep Boys) and hasn't come back on, so problem solved I guess, lol.

 
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I hate to be the bearer of bad news... but your check engine light will come back on and the real problem will begin to plague your engine until one day it starts to stutter and then die and not start back up until you address the REAL PROBLEM.

And what is the REAL PROBLEM... you ask? The real problem is a failing sensor inside your distributor which is the REAL CAM POSITION SENSOR, not the crank position sensor at the bottom of the engine inside the timing cover by the belts. This is what so utterly screws people up. You must replace your entire distributor (trust me, don't try to replace the failed sensor inside it because it costs just as much to buy a brand new distributor). Find a reputable eBay or vendor, even Amazon, and purchase a new Distributor for $125-160 and install it and be done with it.

And here is the other news flash I am very surprised most people here don't know... THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR YOU ASSUMED WAS THE CULPRIT NEVER FAILS! WE'RE TALKING A .0001% FAILURE RATE! JUST TALK TO ANY MASTER HONDA TECHNICIAN AND THEY WILL TELL YOU THE SAME. THAT PART JUST DOES NOT FAIL. What does fail on these cars (anywhere from 130 to 200K) is the distributor. And they fail at a rate of almost 100% by 200K. Some trip the CPK trouble code on their way out and go slowly while others just fail all of a sudden and without warning. Most finally fail in cold temperatures in the end. I had to replace 3 of them this Winter within 2 months time and all were within 20K miles of each other in the range mentioned above.

So please, PLEASE get the word out that this is the REAL PROBLEM when this trouble code shows up. I almost pulled my hair out trying to get to the bottom of this problem and got the absolute worst advice from differen posts in the forum, both old and new; because folks were just pulling things out of their butt and not speaking from actual experience. What you see is not what you get all of the time, and so it is with this code. Don't make the same mistake(s) I did.