Rep Power: 222

So I installed a PWJDM dual core aluminum radiator with a new 1.3 bar cap and all that bla bla bla. I wasn't having overheating issues before except that I somewhat cracked the upper radiator hose thingy on my stock unit when I overtightened the hoses on my swap. Also, I threw in Crower 403s on my LS and on track days and hard drives the needle began to climb so I decided to just replace the stupid stock CX radiator.

ANYWAY I have a 50/50 mix of coolant right now with a stock 78*C thermostat and fan switch and I am having issues. The car won't heat up if I'm driving. Like that bitch is pegged at C the whole time. Now when I'm standing still, it warms up and goes just a **** hair over halfway, then the fan comes on and the needles drops like a **** from heaven. I've tried straight water, I've tried no thermostat and nothing works.... well except the heat, the heat works when the needle says C so maybe thats the temp of the coolant in the radiator since the fan switch is after the thermostat??

Does anyone have an idea if the mixture should be different for an aluminum radiator over a stock one? Any help would be great guys.

 
Rep Power: 222

.....anybody?

 
Rep Power: 0

My aluminum radiator runs a lil bit cooler but not much. I do have a small head gasket leak so it gets hotter than desired but never over 199 or under 182 while driving u may make sure ur sending unit is clean or look at other problems that might restrict coolant flow
.

 
Rep Power: 222

When I sit still it warms up to within spec a little over half but then the fan kicks on and it cools down. Now when its really hot outside, like yesterday, it stays warm and when I start driving it stays cool again. I'm not losing any coolant and there isn't any air left in it It just wont get warm and stay warm.

 
Rep Power: 0

Are you using honda antifreeze? U may try that and see if it helps

 
Rep Power: 518

Drop your thermostat in a pot of water with a thermometer. Bring it to a boil, see what temp the stat opens.

You described the actions of a thermostat that is stuck open or opens at far too cool temp. Period.

Verify what the true coolant temps are? Use infrared or a scanner.

 
Rep Power: 222

did that thermostat is fine no leaks no spillover, coolant is peak antifreeze, I want to make sure that I have the mix down right with no leaks or anything before i spend 16/gallon

 
Rep Power: 518

Again: You described the actions of a thermostat that is stuck open or opens at far too cool temp.

Heat is being removed from the cooling system whenever there is airflow through the radiator, that means coolant is flowing through the radiator when it shouldn't be.

You could run straight water in it and it would still act this way, coolant mix is not your problem.

Something is allowing the coolant to bypass the thermostat. Is the rubber seal missing? Mis-installed?

Also, the original stat should have been about 180*F, which would equal about 82*C.

 
Rep Power: 367

huunh... let's see if i can be of help, buddy...
i would imagine that you might need a thermostat that open at higher temps?

there's a few interesting info in here:
http://www.gassavers.org/showthread.php?t=255
"I always noticed with the Integra that it takes forever to warm up when it gets into the teens or below (and parked outside). I'm thinking of making this the next mod, and it cant be too hard to install. Stock is 180, and they make a 192 degree model that replaces the OEM unit. It's like $15 with the gasket, so it makes sense...

-RH77 "

"This is the curse of all Honda D15 engines (maybe the whole D series). We have our thermostats located in the lower radiator hose so convection normally carries the hottest coolant from the top of the head on up into the top tank of the radiator and cooler coolant there sinks down into the head. This happens even before the thermostat opens. I have been considering adding a second thermostat in the upper radiator hose of my D15 (right up against the head outlet tube, with a small hole drilled in it for safety) to counteract this effect. My other idea was to add an extra top rad hose and make an S shaped loop that would stop any convection currents."

"And yes, some of us are going with higher temps with success. In my case, I took the approach of buying/installing an adjustable thermostat for my radiator fan (although that's only one approach that works). I then ran some experiments to figure out what the highest temp setting (on the adjustment **** for this thermostat) I could get away with, without showing troubling signs of "overheating". As a result, my engine runs a little hot (improving FE), but I do monitor heat issues (and also use good synthetic oil that can handle the above normal heat). And as an added bonus, the fan runs less (although I do have a partial grill block helping aerodynamics, so it still runs more than it would without the grill block), so I use less electrical power (which also helps FE)."

search words were:
"thermostat high temp civic"

your engine is probably being overwhelm by the better cooling system...

funny part is find this on a fuel saver's forum

 
Rep Power: 367

i don't know if this is a "real" site, but found this also (norton says it's a safe web):
http://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/the...nda/civic.html

 
Rep Power: 222

That is the most helpful input ive gotten on the topic. I'm going to look into this. Thanks a lot man.

 
Rep Power: 367

hope all goes well, buddy!