Rep Power: 0

So, I have a 2000 Honda Civic VP with an Automatic Transmission that I have been trying to diagnose for a bit here, and before I start pulling it apart, want to get some advice. This was my wifes daily until it broke down halfway to work, and we had to tow it back to the house. Here is the issue-

She was driving down the highway at appx. 65 mph, she lost nearly all of the power, and was barely able to get to the light on the off ramp. When she stopped at the light, the engine died. It wouldnt start back up again until appx. 10 minutes later, and then it only started because the off-duty officer that stopped to help put the gas pedal to the floor when he was starting it. They got it off the road and we got a tow truck to hook it up. Now, when I get in it, it will start but has a VERY loud ticking noise, hardly any power, and shifts extremely slowly (3-4 seconds to shift when accelerating). When I checked the ATF, it was not even showing on the dip stick, but we just flushed the transmission when we rebuild the top end of the engine less then 1,000 miles ago.

I am thinking that it is the transmission, but I want to know for sure before I pull the transmission and replace it. Any ideas? Thanks, and any help would be much appreciated.

 
Rep Power: 518

Is there oil in the engine?

Transmissions don't usually tick when stopped. Engines without oil do.

 
Rep Power: 188

any CEls? check all your fluids and are u sure your timing was right when you did your head work?

 
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Just took a look again. Oil is low, but is reading on the dipstick. No CEL at all. Here is a video of the engine running, and under acceleration. Also, the car ran fine for 500-600 miles, so I dont think it was the timing. It idles fine, just with the ticking sound, so I dont think that it would be a broken timing belt. The only other option I can think if is a bent valve, but I dont have the ability to compression test it myself, so I am trying to rule everything else out first. Thanks! [YOUTUBE][autostream]http://autostream.com/ibcivicforums/?page_type=firebirdplayerthumbnail&framepage=1118& transactionid=1323388621-701761982&posted_by=Dstock_www.civicforums.com&you tube_video_id=MOcp2DdISBU[/autostream]

 
Rep Power: 812

almost sounds like it overheated but i dont know if she even looked at the temp gauge. see what the oil looks like if its milky or normal.

 
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She said the temperature was fine when she pulled off, right in the middle of the gauge. We used to have a lot of overheating issues with an old Bronco I had, so that was the first thing she looked at.

 
Rep Power: 518

Stick a fork in it, that engine is done.

That is a rod knock. You need an engine now.

I wonder if any antifreeze got into the crankcase when the head was pulled off?

I wonder if someone used Roloc discs to grind the old head gasket off of the block and head? Abrasives from anything like that will eat bearings in a HURRY.

 
Rep Power: 0

Argh, this is what I was afraid of... I dont have a ton of internal engine experience, is there any way to diagnose a rod knock other then the sound? Just want to make sure before I tear into this thing.

 
Rep Power: 188

OUCH.

 
Rep Power: 518

No matter what, that is some UGLY noise.

It actually sounds like the lower half of a bearing is completely missing or spun. It sounds like a piston is actually hitting the cylinder head. That will cover up some of the rod knock on the bottom end.

Hearing it first hand is the quickest way.
There is more to it than that, and it's difficult to explain it.
Experience makes it easy.
You giving the throttle a rev confirmed it.
In general:
Rods hammer louder under load (acceleration) and get quieter during low load (coasting). Noise comes from low in the engine.
The piston hits the head on every other stroke, and sometimes randomly. Noise is high in the engine, it's hitting the bottom of the cylinder head.

To figure out which rod to look at, run it , and kill a cylinder (pull plug wire off or disconnect the injectors) one at a time. At least one should make a significant difference in the noise. You may need to rev it a little to notice if there is a big difference in the sounds, but there will be a difference when you get to the bad one.
Now you can pull the pan and you know which one to look closest at.
In cases of oil starvation, the damaged rod end will have a completely different color. If it was abrasive damage, all of the bearings will probably look like they have been hit with sandpaper. Antifreeze damage sometimes leaves the coatings wiped off of the bearings in the friction areas.
When you pull the oil pan, pull it straight down. Look for any debris built up around the oil sump pickup tube.


You also need an exhaust manifold, I can hear that leaking too.

You can't just pull the bottom end of the engine apart and slide fresh bearings in it and hope for the best. Well, you could, but it won't last or be "right".

IMO, a used engine is usually cheaper than fixing one that has rods knocking. You will need a bunch of machine shop work, crank turned, and whatever rod(s) were damaged will need replaced. LOTS of cleaning. Tear the entire cylinder head apart because metal from the bearing damage travels throughout the entire oiling system. Hot tank everything. If the engine had VTEC, that would mean tearing apart all of the rocker arms too. You don't want metal hiding in the engine to come out later on and destroy all of your hard work.

A used engine is usually less hassle.

 
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I am amazed you picked that up from that video - yes, we knew that we needed a new manifold. There is about a 4" crack in the manifold that goes from the top O2 sensor straight back, over the top of the manifold. I am assuming the O2 sensor was over torqued at some point.

Thanks for all of your help - looks like I will be looking for a new, used engine. I was hoping it wasnt something that serious, but it is what it is. Thanks.

 
Rep Power: 518

Nope, it had nothing to do with the O2 sensor. They all do it sooner or later.
Sorry, don't shoot the messenger, and YW.

Take it apart and look at it anyway, maybe you'll learn a bit.