Rep Power: 0

Car started squealing on cold starts. Figured it was a belt. Checked belts for wear and tension and all seemed fine. I suspected the alt was making the noise. I started the car 2 days ago and backed up about 5 feet and it shut off. Wouldn't restart so I pulled the alt and took it to advance. They tested it and said it was shot. Got a new alt installed and still can't get it started. Had them test the new alt before i took it home. I checked fuses under hood and dash and all are good. I'm going to check timing alignment next, maybe something is off from installing the alt? Just wondering if anyone has any tips on what to check from my symptoms. It sounds like it wants to start. Tried to jumpstart. Didn't work. Battery light stays on while trying. No CEL's up. Hopefully timing is off but maybe something else is fried? Any help is very appreciated! Thanks
97 civic LX - manual

 
Rep Power: 0

Also pulled the cover off and checked the Timing belt which looked fine.
I have no spark at any of my plugs.
I pulled the cap off the distributor and the rotor was spinning.
Going to open it again to check for voltage on the wires in it.

 
Rep Power: 188

 
Rep Power: 0

Could be your ignition control module in the distributor. The Alt going bad would not of been giving the full amount of voltage needed for it to operate correctly. This could of caused it to work harder than needed and now its just gone out.

These can be pricey from honda so its usually best to swap out the distrubutor from another car to check and see if that solves the problem. If thats it you can usually get a used one from a junk yard or forum fairly cheap.

 
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Thanks to Gunner for the flowchart.
I got a new cap and rotor because it needed new ones anyway and I was out to get a multimeter.
Checked the resistance on the coil and got bout 10 at the secondary and 0 at the primary.
New coil is in the mail, so I will update when I install.
Thanks for the help!

 
Rep Power: 188

NP, Glad to hear it helped out. Let us know when its fixed.

 
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Update: still not starting.
Installed new coil
fired for 1 second and shut down.
No power at primary of coil now.
Starting at the begining.
Tested continuity on ignition switch.
All good.
Rechecked all fuses.
Battery good.
Testing relays and starter selinoid friday.

 
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Also did an ICM input test and I have no juice there. Starter spins, so It's gotta be between the starter and the dist. I think.

 
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Today's progress?
1. Checked the voltage @ the distrubutor connector. Got a big 0. Yesterday i checked the top left on alt plug and 0 there also. That's the one the manual said to check. I'm going to confirm that it's the right color wire and test the starter selinoid now.

2. I re-pulled every single fuse to be sure. Starter has power to it because sparks flew when i tried to take the wires off w/o disconnecting the battery first.
I disconnected battery,
disconnected all 3 wires to solenoid on starter and did the starter solenoid test in the manual.
Continuity between S and M (pull-in coil) checks out but not between S and armature housing for ground (hold-in coil). Solenoid is shot right? Gotta replace the whole starter then I believe.

3. I just put everything back together in the car and turned the key.
She fired for 1 sec, sputtered and shut down.
When I turn it, it sputters like it wants to start now.
not sure if that's better or worse.

 
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Only had a few minutes to work on it today but on another forum RonJ told me the correct way to use my multimeter and I do have voltage to distrib connector yel/bl. Checked and now I do have yellow spark at all four plugs. Sunday I'm going to check resistance on new coil i just put in and verify that I'm getting fuel in.

 
Rep Power: 203

If you want to rule out the starter then just try bump starting it.

(well make sure your getting gas first)

Another cheap trick for starters is tapa,tapa.tapa on the side of the starter with a wrench. If it works after banging it with a wrench it's actually 2 brass fingers inside the starter. The positive one will just be ground down so far the starter can't kick over. I've done this job many times in many different cars. It's about $10 for the brass fingers and a couple hours of fairly basic bolt turning.

 
Rep Power: 188

I know Ron J. He is a good guy and knows what he is talking about..try what he tells ya to do and let us know how it works out.