CortezTheKiller

5spd manual

Boots are ripped in half (driver's side worse), grease EVERYWHERE.
No knocking or clicking when turning, but I do get rough vibration going over 60 mph. There is dirt in the grease. Should I just replace the boot and repack grease or play it safe and replace the whole axle?
Does refurbished make a difference? Should I go OEM?

Which should I order if replacing both axles?

http://www.car-stuff.com/carparts/ho...rdonea16640601

or

http://www.genesisautoparts.com/prod...657xcv4060.htm

or

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...e&apwid9wB1NSk

Suggestions/comments etc welcome!!

MelJ

Get a pair of remanned axles from Napa. If the boot has been torn, the grease has more than likely been compromised and joint damage will be next. Play it safe.

CortezTheKiller

Thanks, I'll stop in Napa and get a quote tomorrow.
Auto parts warehouse has new Cardone axles for $75 each, 3 year warranty.

I've called a few mobile mechanics for help (I don't have an impact wrench for that 36mm spindle nut or a long bar to pry the lower arm down), the job should take roughly 30 mins for each side?

Should I go with any of these?

MelJ

That's a good price. I paid around the same for remans! The job itself isn't as bad as you might think. 30 minutes is about right. You gonna do the job? If you are, lemme know and I'll link you to a good DiY that helped me a ton. If you do decide to take on the task, having an extra set of hands makes it way easier.

CortezTheKiller

Roomie and I are doing it, as well as the mobile mechanic I find.

I've got a few DIY's and a bootlegged Honda Service Manual but I could always use more information!

Also how difficult would it be to rebuild the axles I pull off to use as spares? Or throw on craigslist

MelJ

Haha. Add a pitman arm puller to your list of tools. That makes separating the ball joint from the steering knuckle about a million times easier. The tool is only about 10 bucks. You could also pound the lower ball joint out, but why risk it? Soak the spindle nuts with some PB blaster, as they can be a PitA if they're seized on there. I broke my breaker bar trying to get them off. Also, as I'm sure you know, get some Honda MTF since you'll be changing both axles. The one going into the transmission may be a little tricky since that lock ring has to hook up just right. You'll know it's in once you hear a click.

CortezTheKiller

Pitman is superior to the pickle fork?

Would I need PB Blaster if I'm using an impact wrench?

Fluid is on passenger side, right?

MelJ

With the pickle fork, you run the risk of ripping the boot on the ball joint. So unless you plan on replacing the ball joint, stay away from that damn thing. I'd still use a little penetrating oil just in case. It wouldn't hurt anything. And yes. The passenger side is where the drain and fill holes are located.

CortezTheKiller

Got it.

Any gaskets, washers or any other small parts I should know about ahead of time?

lazlong

This is the clearest example of ball joint removal I've seen (no special tools needed): http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=887859 Of course, it has to be pressed back in.

Inspect and/or replace the oil seal where the axle goes in the tranny, it's #15: http://www.hondapartscheap.com/south...t=0&quantity=0 This is for a manual tranny, if your has a different tranny follow the link to the correct tranny.

Also inspect and/or replace the wheel bearings.