Ground Wire Length
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I'm reinstalling stereo for a cleaner look. Want to move my amps farther back in the trunk towards the rear of the car. My current ground is the seat belts, which gives me a ground wire distance of about a foot.
Moving the amps back will make the ground wire over 3 feet long. Previous experience with long grounds have caused lots of whiny noise. Where else can i ground? towards the back of the car.
Does having a long ground always cause noise problems? Everything else is installed the way it should be, rca's and power on opposite sides of car, i ran the speaker wires down the middle and out of the way, etc etc.....
Is the reason most people on this site put their amps on their back seat just so they can have a short ground to seat belts? I can't put both my amps there because they are too big, and one there and another elsewhere won't be cosmetically good to me....
thanks
Moving the amps back will make the ground wire over 3 feet long. Previous experience with long grounds have caused lots of whiny noise. Where else can i ground? towards the back of the car.
Does having a long ground always cause noise problems? Everything else is installed the way it should be, rca's and power on opposite sides of car, i ran the speaker wires down the middle and out of the way, etc etc.....
Is the reason most people on this site put their amps on their back seat just so they can have a short ground to seat belts? I can't put both my amps there because they are too big, and one there and another elsewhere won't be cosmetically good to me....
thanks
Last edited by Tom1178; Jun 10, 2003 at 11:22 PM.
The problem with long grounds is that they cause GROUND LOOPS. Essentially, the ground point for part of your stereo will be at a different potential than the ground for your amps. This causes a current in your ground wire. If you have this problem, you can use a GROUND LOOP ISOLATOR in series with your RCA's and the noise you hear in your speakers wil disappear.
Honda grounds all of the electronics for the tail lights diectly behind the bumper. If you remove the plastic piece that surrounds the trunk latch, and you will see their star ground point. This is a good point to ground your amps.
Honda grounds all of the electronics for the tail lights diectly behind the bumper. If you remove the plastic piece that surrounds the trunk latch, and you will see their star ground point. This is a good point to ground your amps.
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Ok thanks a lot!! Is there any particuliar way to get that plastic piece off? any screws or do io just need to start pulling. I don't feel like going outside right now to check.
Using that grounding point i'll be able to make my ground at most a little over a foot long based on where i want to mount my amps.
thanks for the help!!
Using that grounding point i'll be able to make my ground at most a little over a foot long based on where i want to mount my amps.
thanks for the help!!
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cool thanks, that's what i thought, i almost took that piece off before becuase i was curious to see what was underneath, i decided against because at the time i saw no need to do so. This saves me from going out to the store and getting more wire to ground with tomorrow.
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Why you are at it you can also do the truck latch DIY that will help you trunk from rattling when the bass hits. Look for it on the DIY section of the site...you will be able to kill two birds with one stone, so to speak.
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Good idea fonto,
now i can't wait for tomorrow to come when i can have some light. Gives me something to do tomorrow that's for sure.
The pics in the DIY are also very helpful, gives me a good idea of what to expect when i go to ground my amps. I'm actualy looking forward to scraping away that paint tomorrow. Not much better than taking a screw driver to metal to make place for a grounding point.
now i can't wait for tomorrow to come when i can have some light. Gives me something to do tomorrow that's for sure.
The pics in the DIY are also very helpful, gives me a good idea of what to expect when i go to ground my amps. I'm actualy looking forward to scraping away that paint tomorrow. Not much better than taking a screw driver to metal to make place for a grounding point.
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are the guide notches pointed out on the DIY by those red lines it showed? I can understand why it would be good to line those notches up, it would make sense to want the trunk latch to be lined up at the longitudinal axis of the car. Right angles are always good. sorry about the longitudinal thing, my mind is thinking in terms of airplane terminology at the time.
lined up = latches perfectly straight pointing towards the center of the front of the car and upwards perfectly straight and level
lined up = latches perfectly straight pointing towards the center of the front of the car and upwards perfectly straight and level
Last edited by Tom1178; Jun 11, 2003 at 12:34 AM.
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If I remember correctly there is a notch going from top to bottom that you need to line up so that the trunk latch will close properly. Then there should be 3 notches going from side to side. Your trunk will prolly be lined up near the middle latch. When you losen the screws try to get it closet to the top lnotch, so that the latch moves down farther. At this point it is trial and error...you want it to be tight, BUT you don't want to have to have to jump on your trunk in order to close it.
After you are done with the latch, I would also check the rubber trunk stoppers on each side of the bottom of the trunk lid...these can help a lil too.
After you are done with the latch, I would also check the rubber trunk stoppers on each side of the bottom of the trunk lid...these can help a lil too.
all the notches line up on the center line unless you change it to make your trunk close tighter...just pull up on that black piece.. u might feel like your going to break something but the metal clips that hold it on are a bitch to get off sometimes so just pull and ground it on the latch.
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