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i have a 2000 watt amp connected to 2 12" subz. they are both 800 watts rms. i can continously have the bass running for prolly 20-25 min driving time but then it turns off and then turns on then turns off and so on....i dunno what to do...u think the car cant handle that much power? i have a .5 farad cap but its not connected....would that work?

 
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Um, try turning it down?

 
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Is the amp hot? Are the subs wired correctly, the right ohm load for that amp?

 
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make sure the subs are wired correctly and check the remote wire

 
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Check the ground wire and then check the fuse to make sure it isn't blown. When the fuse for my sub amp blew, my sub kept turning on and off.

 
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I agree check the wiring and the fuse. If everything checks out okay If you are running the amp remote off of an accessory wire and not a lead from the head unit you may need to splice in a small cap (little plastic looking thing that you can get at radio shack) The cap will clean up the power on the remote wire and provide constant power.

 
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Or you might be pushing your amp into a protection mode. If it is overheating it might be turning itself off to keep from burning up. Make sure you have it wired for the proper ohm load. If the amp is getting real hot you might want to try to put a small fan or something back there to get the air circulating.

 
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dude wire your subs in a 2 ohm load... it will stop shutting off same thing happened to mine. Now i can crank it all the way for ever and it wont shut off..

 
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what kind of subs and amp do u have

 
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how do you know if your amps are wired for a 2 ohm load?
reason i ask is because one of the inputs on my amp isnt werking so i tried running both subs from the one output that was werking and it was going into protection mode lol i know its stupid but i figured i'd try it, i opened the amp and couldnt see the problem without taking the whole board out, but i know i just need to solder it cuz if i hold the rca input a certain way it send signal to the output leads....

any suggestions besides throwing myself into traffic?

 
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check youre fuzes. or maybe you need a cap.

 
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uh take a the + wire from one of your subs and attach it to the negative terminal of the other sub. Then take the one negative out and attach a positive and a negative to your terminals.

 
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use this link for a better explanation

Sub wiring link

 
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Ok first of all we need to know what kind of equipment you have.

Depending on the subs you might not be able to get a 2 ohm load and your amp might not be stable at 2 ohm mono.

List what amp and subs you have and then we can go from there.

 
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Check the ground wire and then the fuse before you go and rewire your subs. I thought I had a good ground but when I checked again it was not connected very well. It solved my problem

 
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i have a pyramid royal red 2000 watt amp...its 800 watts rms...my subs are 2 12" audiobahns....they're also 800 watts rms

amp: 500 Watts x 4 Output
1000 Watts x 2 Bridged Output (500W x 2 + 1000W x 1)
Dual Variable Hi/Low Electronic Crossover Network
Dual Variable Bass Boost (0- +18 dB @ 60Hz)
Variable Input Level (Gain) Control
Remote Turn On/Off
Gold Plated RCA Inputs
High level MOLEX Inputs
Power ON LED Indicator
LED Protection Indicator
Remote Bass Boost
S/N Ratio: 95dB
THD:< 0.04%
Thermal, Overload, Short Circuit Protection
Anti-Thump Turn-On
Tri-Mode Configurable

subs:800W RMS Power Handling
Gold Binding Post Terminals
Dual 12" Molded, Texture Injected Poly Cone
60 oz. Strontium Magnet
2" 4-Layer ASV Voice Coil
Bumped Back Plate
Extended and Vented Pole Piece
4 Ohm Impedance
Frequency Response: 22-140Hz
Sensitivity: 105dB

 
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but wut i did notice is when its chilly outside and the rear seats down with windows down, the amp runs continuaslly...but when the seats are up it turns off after a while....i dunno where else to mount the amp cuz my box is plexiglass all the way to the top....im thinking about putting a fan but i dunno how to.....

 
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Damn !!!! thats one mean *** System.... check youre ground youre remote and all of youre connections to see if they are connecting right... and if not you must have sumthing wrong with the AMP or the fuz.

 
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Alright. Let's check something here. You have listed that your amp has a protection LED. That means that when it shuts down, the LED will light up, so you know that you're driving your amp too hard.

There was a suggestion here about sub wiring. Something about + from amp to + of sub one, - from sub one to + of sub two, - of sub two to - of amp. That would be my suggestion for wiring as well. That will set you up in a 4-ohm configuration. Your amp may not be able to handle 2-ohm loads for extended periods. Think of it this way, you turn on one tap in your house and water flows pretty good, now turn on a second tap, and you'll see the flow gets weaker. The water pressure can't handle both taps. Same with the amp. It can't handle a 2-ohm load for extended periods. It get's too hot, and goes into protection mode, so it doesn't fry it's power supply. Now, if you run it in 4-ohm, like the wiring suggestion above, you'll have less problems with the protection circuit, and you won't overheat your amp, so it'll last longer.

If you want to leave it in 2-ohm (which I think you already have it wired as), you can use a fan. But there are some things you need. First, obviously is a fan. Second is a way to turn it on. You have to decide whether you want it running constantly, or just when the amp gets overheated. If it's running constantly, it will draw some power from your electrical system, so your amp may not get what it wants, or you may burn out your stock alternator. If you have it heat activated, there is some wiring you need to do. Either way, you need to make sure that the system is vented, so the hot air has somewhere to go, and not just back over the amp. You should be able to get any of this stuff from a high-end car audio shop in your area.

To have it running all the time, you hook it up so that it has a constant 12-volts, a ground, and a remote turn on, just like your amp. Usually, on most decks, they have a remote on lead, and a power antenna lead. If you don't have that, splice into the remote-on, and use a fuse.

To have it turn on with temps, you'll need a temp guage, and a thermometer. The thermometer will have a tip that mounts to the heat sink on the amp, and will control the fan. There are a few different fans out there, so connection will be different with each.

Then you need an air supply. Most cars, ours included have vents in the trunks, that let in air and vent out fumes. You can use this to draw in cool outside air and push it across your amp. Make sure that you push air over the fan, don't pull it across the fan, know what I mean? Cause hot air is less dense than cold air, so if you push cold air across the amp, it'll actually move more air.

Thank you class, you are now dismissed.

Any other questions, PM me. If I can answer them I will. If I can't, I won't BS, I'll say, I don't know.

Oh yeah. And about your cap. Best guage for the type of cap(s) you need, 1-farad per 500watts.

Hope that helps.

 
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should i keep the amp where it is right now? its mounted behind the box facing inside the car....

 
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If you leave it where it is now, get a fan. I personally have my amp mounted to the top of my box, facing up. I haven't had any problems where it is. It's a Rockford bd120, running two MTX thunder5000, in series (4-ohms). Just try moving it, either on top of your sub box, or even, if you're adventurous, under the passenger seat.

Always try to ensure proper airflow around your amp (without a fan), by having at least 2 inches of space all around the heat-sink. The more air the better.

 
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Yeah, sound like overheating.... Looks like you are putting quite a load on that amp...... could be remote turn on, so that would be easier to check.... A cap won't help....

 
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try using a relay