Sub/amp install
Sub/amp install
I'm about to put two mtx 10in subs and a pioneer 760watt 2 channel amp into my car. I just wanted to make sure i wasnt missing anything i would need for installation. can someone list what i would need to put this stuff in my car (Pioneer DEH-p730 is the hu currently in the car)
I love my 7300 ..... Pioneer makes nice stuff. I am sure the amp will be nice too.
Ground Wire
- 8 gauge should work nice
- 2 ring terminals for it
Sandpaper or dremel to get to bare metal where ground is connected to frame. The better this is connected and the shorter this wire is the less chance of getting altenator whine in the system.
Power wire
- 8 gauge
- 1 large for battery
- 1 small for amp end
- 2 more small if needed for circuit breaker
Fuse & Holder / Circuit Breaker, I do circuit breakers, when they pop you just reset it .... no need to go to the store and get a new fuse. One of these is a must have. ... see story below.
Drill and drill-bit to drill hole through firewall for the power wire from the battery.
Rubber gromet for firewall, avoids chaffing power wire and electrical shorts. Remember to put this on the wire before you go connecting ring terminals on the ends ....
RCA (18 ft or so) ... gives some extra for going through all the corners and keeping it in protected area.
Remote trip wire to tell amp when to turn on. This is the blue power antenna lead from the HU I believe.
- 1 small spade on HU end
- 1 small ring for amp end
Speaker wire, 20' or so. That will give you two 10' runs, one to each speaker. It will also allow you to pull the subs out of the trunk w/ it connected if needed.
Zip ties to fasten wires here and there. Like keeping the power wire where it belongs in the engine bay.
Maybe have a amp board to put the amp on. Board, spray glue, carpet, stapler, etc ....
That should be more than enough to keep you busy.
It won't be a quick thing to do either. I consider myself rather knowledgeable and I would slate all day for this task to do it right.
Watch for moving parts too. My brother once routed a power wire too close to the e-brake in his truck. The first time he went to show off the stereo he pulls up in the parking lot, steps on the e-brakes, the arm of the pedal slices the cable covering, 4 gauge power cable is now directly touching steel of the truck, sparks fly, fuses blow, and no more stereo. He just had to replace the fuses and move the cable .... He felt like an real *** ..... but at least the fuse at the battery saved the truck from burning to the ground.
Do it right and don't shortcut. It will pay off beleive me. Do it once the right way .... not twice or more .....
Ground Wire
- 8 gauge should work nice
- 2 ring terminals for it
Sandpaper or dremel to get to bare metal where ground is connected to frame. The better this is connected and the shorter this wire is the less chance of getting altenator whine in the system.
Power wire
- 8 gauge
- 1 large for battery
- 1 small for amp end
- 2 more small if needed for circuit breaker
Fuse & Holder / Circuit Breaker, I do circuit breakers, when they pop you just reset it .... no need to go to the store and get a new fuse. One of these is a must have. ... see story below.
Drill and drill-bit to drill hole through firewall for the power wire from the battery.
Rubber gromet for firewall, avoids chaffing power wire and electrical shorts. Remember to put this on the wire before you go connecting ring terminals on the ends ....
RCA (18 ft or so) ... gives some extra for going through all the corners and keeping it in protected area.
Remote trip wire to tell amp when to turn on. This is the blue power antenna lead from the HU I believe.
- 1 small spade on HU end
- 1 small ring for amp end
Speaker wire, 20' or so. That will give you two 10' runs, one to each speaker. It will also allow you to pull the subs out of the trunk w/ it connected if needed.
Zip ties to fasten wires here and there. Like keeping the power wire where it belongs in the engine bay.
Maybe have a amp board to put the amp on. Board, spray glue, carpet, stapler, etc ....
That should be more than enough to keep you busy.
It won't be a quick thing to do either. I consider myself rather knowledgeable and I would slate all day for this task to do it right.
Watch for moving parts too. My brother once routed a power wire too close to the e-brake in his truck. The first time he went to show off the stereo he pulls up in the parking lot, steps on the e-brakes, the arm of the pedal slices the cable covering, 4 gauge power cable is now directly touching steel of the truck, sparks fly, fuses blow, and no more stereo. He just had to replace the fuses and move the cable .... He felt like an real *** ..... but at least the fuse at the battery saved the truck from burning to the ground.
Do it right and don't shortcut. It will pay off beleive me. Do it once the right way .... not twice or more .....
when i ran my power wire originally (4ga the first time) when going under the carpet along the bottom of the passenger side door jam, there is a piece of metal in there with a hole in it, i ran mine through there to keep it from sliding and rolling around under the plastic seal over the bottom of the door jam....
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my amp has two terminals for both B+ (which is guess is for power) and Ground.
so this is what im thinking
4 guage wire for power from batter that goes into a distributer that has two outs
then use 8 guage wire from the two outs, one into each of the Power terminals on the amp. is that how its suppose to work?
and the ground has two terminals for it.. do i use one cable and split in half or use two seperate cables or use just one cable/one terminal?
so this is what im thinking
4 guage wire for power from batter that goes into a distributer that has two outs
then use 8 guage wire from the two outs, one into each of the Power terminals on the amp. is that how its suppose to work?
and the ground has two terminals for it.. do i use one cable and split in half or use two seperate cables or use just one cable/one terminal?
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