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I know this is probably a MAJOR newbie question, but I'm trying to learn myself and im not going to learn with out asking. I want to install my own amp, can someone please tell me how to connect it to 1 the subs 2 my rear 6.5s 3 my front infinity components 4 the battery 5 a ground source. Thanks for all your help. marty

 
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Well, you need to be slightly more specific.

Here are some basics though.

You want to buy an Amplifier Wiring Kit from a car audio store. For one amp, probably around $50. If your considering adding more amps in the future, go with a 4-gauge, multi-amp kit. It will save you money in the long run. There is a good DIY that is helpful in actually running the wires. You want to run the red (positive) wire from the location of your amp install (probably the trunk), through the firewall, and to the positive terminal of the battery. The ground will be connected near the amp, to a GOOD (no paint) metal surface. I would use an existing bolt on the car. Just look around until you find one nearby. AS ALWAYS, MAKE SURE THAT YOU DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL OF THE BATTERY BEFORE MESSING WITH THE WIRING!!! You will also need a remote turn on wire for the amp, so that it can turn on from when the radio comes on. This is an important step as you don't want the amp on all the time, running down your battery. If you don't have an aftermarket head unit, I would probably just go to a pro for the whole install because you are going to have to connect a wire to the fuse panel to a fuse that is only on when the car is on. Not that hard, but if you don't have any experience with this it might be. Finally, you will need a source signal (RCA's) going to the amp. Once again, if you don't have an aftermarket head unit, take it to a pro. You're going to have to buy a high-to-low level adapter (around $20). You are going to have to install it behind the head unit (easiest), since you need multiple sets of RCA's for all the channels of that amp. Most importantly, make sure that you run the signal wires on the opposite side of the car from the power wire. That way you won't get wining from the engine. (Signal - driver side, Power - passenger side) Honestly, I would get a new headunit before doing all this, as it will be MUCH easier on you!

Anyway, running wires to the speakers is EASY, especially if you have the amp in the trunk. The back speakers and sub(s) will be in the trunk, and therefore are easy to get to. As for the front speakers, check out the DIY on removing your door panels. You will have to run a wire from each door to the trunk (or wherever the amp is)! That's about it.

Make sure you have a fuse in the positive cable near the battery, and that you reconnect the negative battery terminal. Everything should work. Not very hard, but can be time consuming.

Bryn

 
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You can also tap your remote turn-on wire off a speaker wire, that way the amp comes on when the radio is on. Granted the fuse box is a better route, but this way works too.

 
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he has aftermarket, no need to worry about ghetto rigging something up.

does wiring a speaker out like that really work? ive never tried it, but it seems to me that a 50-160 volt AC signal into teh remote wouldnt do it, since usually the remote is just a 12 volt DC source.....

 
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I thought that high (speaker) level was around 10V DC, but I could be wrong.

 
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first of all, speaker outs are AC (sine waves) not DC

and testing my 1200.1 in my apartment wired at 8 ohms with the gain turned WAY down and playing music at a low volume im getting 5 volts AC.

in my car playing loud loud loud bass from a 500 watt earthquake amp at 4 ohms ive read over 100 volts AC. that meter i would trust more, as it was digital and nice, where as the one i used just now is a $10 rat shack meter, and its kinda messed up, too.

doesnt change that its AC tho.